I hear you and thanks for your comments. I live in Huntsville, AL, USA (a city of about 150,000 people). The market is not very competitive here because the average consumer does not understand HVAC equipment and/or can't do simple business math ... so they get whatever they get. I, personally, hate to be one of those people. I want to know enough to decide if I'm getting a great deal, a good deal, or getting ripped off. I know extras are extra and problems are extra. All I'm trying to figure out ... not to the penny... but within a range of reason ... is a cost for the project as described.

A front loader will use way less water than a top loader, which will lessen the burden on your pump. Before it goes into the spin cycle it should drain and pump out the standing water in the drum. Mine spends about 2 minutes doing this, so I don't think the water would be coming out faster than your pump could handle it. When mine (a Miele) goes into spin, it spins for about 7 minutes, so there again, it's hard to see the outflow causing a problem for a correctly sized and functioning pump. I'm interested in what other might have to say, but I can't see a problem using a front loader in your situation.

If you have water infiltration, you want to speak to a contractor that specializes in that issue, typically not a plumber. Simply installing a sump pump may not be adequate to solve the problem - you may need a drain system installed around the home's perimeter. If you have clay soil, pumping the water to the storm drain will be best. Run the pipe underground if you don't wish to look at it.

I do not comment without full model numbers for the system quoted including thermostat, size heat strip, and how return air will be filtered. What size home? What is your location? How was size determined-was a load calculation performed? Did dealer inspect your ductwork system? Any electric service modifications for handling the heat strip? IMO New Heat Pump System Here is my general spec sheet for new system. both outside and inside units should be replaced to have a properly matched system. 15 SEER, 12.5+ EER, 9 HSPF best matching VS air handler full BTUs in both cooling and heating for your rated size R-410a refrigerant(same as Puron) scroll compressor preferred electronic demand defrost preferred thermostat with "dehumidify on demand" feature staged backup heat strips new and correctly sized refrigerant lineset 10 yr warranty on parts and compressor you want a thorough inspection of your ductwork system. size, overall condition, supply and return lines, insulation qualities, leak test, etc. any hot/cold spot issues in your home should be addressed. My personal recommendation is Trane/AmStd, and Carrier/Bryant. Depending on your location, I would not purchase a new system that did not have electronic demand defrost. IMO