You need to do a little more archeological digging still. You need to know the whole construction of the floor before you can decide how best to install something new. I'd take up that plywood piece in the kitchen and see what's under it. It's higher than the surrounding floor, so needs to go. You should also be able to see from there what subfloor is under the original kitchen hardwood. It's too bad the space under your entryway is finished, but I'd still do some exploring from below to see what's under there, and to figure out the fix to stop it from squeaking. Is it drywall below or a drop ceiling? I know it probably seems like a pain to tear out drywall, but if you cut out a clean patch, like 2' x the width of the joists, it'll be relatively simple to repair. Just make sure to cut it down the center of the joists so that there's room to screw the patch piece to it later. Cut the hole under the area that squeaks the most, if you can. Have someone walk on and watch the floor from below to see what's moving. It might be as simple as pounding in a couple shims from below, or face-nailing a loose board from above. You want to find out what's underneath the hardwood. It might be laid directly on the floor joists, or there might be 10" wide boards that the hardwood is nailed to. Another thought is to take out a board in the hallway, since that's not original and you want to replace it. See what the subfloor is there. I am a bit puzzled at why, when you've stripped the kitchen down to the original hardwood, it's still higher than the hallway floor. Is your current surface perhaps not the original kitchen hardwood? Peeling back the plywood area will help determine that. BTW, I haven't heard of that stop squeaking product you linked to, so can't offer any personal opinion. And don't pour self-leveling compound over top of hardwood. It needs to go over plywood.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fmAgtFixPg&feature=youtu.be Jacob and I have been talking about plant propagation and I started thinking we ought to be sharing this on the forum, since a) the forum seriously needs a shot in the arm right now b) this is the right time of year for woody plant cuttings. I have been "Winter Propagating" for many years now, with a pretty good success rate, using quart-sized glass canning jars. One winter, I had some old pickle jars that held probably two quarts and I used those. I'm thinking even the plastic mayonnaise and peanut butter jars would work, too. Their main function is to keep the cold, dry, winter air from dehydrating the cutting before it has a chance to grow roots. I have found that cuttings don't mind the cold as long as they have the protection from the air. Rather than go thru a long tutorial here, I found a YouTube that runs pretty close along the way I do it. That link is here: http://scvrs.homestead.com/Cuttings1.html The submitter of this particular YouTube is rooting roses, but I have also rooted cuttings from Harry Lauder's Walking Stick, all kinds of bushes, blackberry and raspberry canes, and grapevines. Last year, I tried to propagate cuttings from my Aronia bush, but I messed up in the spring by letting the new little plants get too dry. When you use this method, the really tricky part is in the spring when the sun starts heating up the inside of the jar. Normally I'm more careful and I start tipping the jar off for part of the day to "harden off", and then providing shade for the plant during the time it's resting under the jar. So the next selection I would offer you is this one on propagating Nanking Cherry Bushes. Lots of information here that can be applied to almost any cutting. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1iAQlTxnB4U This fellow mentions the use of rooting hormone and I have to say I've started cuttings with and without and really don't notice much difference. Most recently, I've seen some people recommending the use of aloe vera gel. Just make sure you cut off the spiny sides of the aloe leaf, as that dark green slime is NOT what you want to use. The good part is the clear. Here are some other selections you might find interesting. I'm assuming you have some time to kill here, in case you hadn't noticed. LOL https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GYGaeeT5C4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w98biG2NVCw It appears that one point of failure for rooting cuttings is that the leaves aspirate and fall off and then the cutting has to struggle to try to make new leaves AND roots. So misting is one alternative and I found a cannabis grower who's got instructions for making his own misting machine. But that made me think that a common sickroom cool-mist humidifier from WMT would do the same thing, easier and cheaper. Somebody mentioned spraying on a biodegradeable leaf spray that is "really a wax" and that made me think of back in the days when everybody had a philodendron in the house and they used to sell leaf wax for that. I can't seem to find a good source for that but I found instructions for cleaning the leaves and water with a little mild dish soap in it was recommended. As long as the cuttings were not going to be in direct sunlight, it might be good for the leaves to have a little dip in some of that. Here is a YouTube posted by a woman using Potassium Permanganate crystals in the water in which the cutting is rooting. "Pot Perm", as it is sometimes referred to, is hard to find here where I am. It's used to disinfect fish tanks. It can be bought on Amazon. But here's the thing: if you get glycerine or sugar in it, it starts a fire. And there are warnings not to get it on your skin unless it is diluted with water to a light pink color. So now I'm not sure I even want to go this direction. Sounds like lots of room for an accident with this stuff. But here's the link if you want to see it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fmAgtFixPg&feature=youtu.be Its main use is as a fungicide. It is sometimes used as a foot soak when there's athlete's foot or some other skin problem that involves fungus. I read somewhere that when the heels dry out and start to crack, that's a form of athlete's foot. But I don't know if that's right. It can treat water and make it safe to drink in an emergency situation. So I'm torn because seems like it might be good to have some of that on hand except for the fire-starting thing and what it might do to your skin if you didn't have it diluted in water. I wouldn't want to be responsible for putting an inquisitive child at risk or accidentally burning my house down because of having some of that in my pantry. Lots to think about, sharing it in case any of you are interested. This year I'm trying again with those Aronia bushes, with a few tweaks using tips I've found on some of those YouTube videos. I'm kinda playing it by ear. I just stuck the ends of the cuttings in sections of aloe leaves to begin with. Haven't decided whether I will try to root them in a pot, maybe in my attached garage where it's cold but never reaches freezing temps. or whether to use the glass jar method outside. Haven't decided whether to take them out of the aloe leaves when I put them in potting soil, or just plant each cutting with the aloe section still on. Decisions, Decisions.....

hardwod floors are always and will always be the look. though people seem to not underatand thatbthe reason why these products exist outside of harwood. hardwood is just not practical anymore , yesrs ago youd have certain rooms with different flooring to accommodate the room , now, its all usually open concept and having patchy flooring all over doesnt work. honestly i just dont see hoe you can put hardwood lets say in a kitchen , kitchens take a beating , if you can afford to or want to samf your floors every few years , espec especially if you have a busy household , them go for it , i know of no one that has ever resanded their floors and if so , what a mess. so lvp , laminate etc… all have come along due to the demand for the wood look without the issues of hardwood , so its all a decsion though we have decided on 1400sq ft of coretec lvp, we just love the hardwood though just not practical anymore , i cant have adults and kids tip toeing on our floors. plus in the future if you want a new floor , just pick it up , no demo. just my opinion

The $2K price for 470sf AND 11 stairs is a GOOD PRICE. The refinisher is right on track with the estimate. You are welcome to learn all the tricks of the trade for wood floor refinishing. Right now you probably have the time. Your research time investment should be a few hundred hours. That includes all the youtube videos you can stomach. You will also contact the manufacturers of the product you are interested. If you were to use Loba 2K Supra AT (10 minute working edge = decent for water based): 1. 1 Gallon of WS EasyPrime = $100 = 450 - 500sf (you might need two gallons just to be sure) You will apply a single coat over the entire floor once the sanding has been completed 2. 1 Gallon of Loba 2K Supra AT = $195 = 500sf for first coat. You WILL NEED two gallons to finish this floor. 3. Microfibre rollers = $10/per head = 3 heads 4. Painter's pole = $20 Sanding equipment = 3-4 days of rentals (your floors need ++ work...there is PLENTY of wear through...the poor things needed love 10 years ago) Sanding pads = double digits worth of product. You will need 3 different grit levels (eg. 60, 80, 100). Moving all the furniture and then staying off the floor for 10 days = normal.