jill: 1/ it sounds to me like this will work, since the window is high enough. 2/ There being a big window in the wall, don't worry a lot about what is "possible structurally under a load-bearing exterior 4" wall" because someone before you has already done the work to get whatever structural reinforcing was necessary to allow the window in the first place. The question is best when reworded: the window have already been "framed" and you want to put some thingie between studs, under the window. A plumbing forum is not the place to ask this. When you open the wall, underneath the window you will see studs but know this: they are not the studs that hold the building up; they happen to be the same size and spacing as all the other studs everywhere else, but this was done in order to remain standardized, not to hold the roof up. Of course you may wish to have all this confirmed by a couple other people including real on-site visitors. The remodeling forum might be a good place to go to. 3/ To put a wall carrier under the window might mean that you move a stud over by an inch or two. No big deal, not at all. Under the window you could also replace them with smaller ones and have more room for some continuous insulation (because you want to reduce air, wind, cold from coming in). Take this to the remodeling forum. - Plumbing. The drain pipe "angle" is also no big deal. One day you can post again with a link to a photo on the internet, to get tips where to cut and which fitting to buy to connect to the drain. One of the numerous advantages of a wall hung toilet with an in-wall carrier is that you can have a vented drain instead of a long S trap drain. (b.t.w., all toilets are designed to work on S trap drain configurations, so it will be OK either way, i.e. with or without a real vent or an AAV vent.) The toilet wall carrier has a drain : you could connect it to a vented drain line (e.g. using a real vent or an AAV (search "AAV").) Just one thing to know. Good to know. When it comes time to connect the carrier, you could remind the plumber of this. About the elongated bowl: people get used to the bowl size they use all the time, so I would urge you not give in to the impluse to try to find the largest bowl possible. Any reasonable size bowl will be fine, if it's larger than the toilet you currently have. Hth

Hey, I'm open to cat box location ideas!!!!! I've been cleaning today because I have oral surgery tomorrow and I wanted to recover in a nice, fresh place when I hget back home. I still have to wash all the kitty drinkwell fountains. Anyway, while cleaning, I've been trying to come up with good palces for litter boxes. It used to be the 5 kitties were willing to share one box, but then Billy (an adorable orange and white kitten) came sauntering out of the woods, and decided he was moving in. Now one of the girls started using our shower for her litter box, so I've had to set a second one up....in our bedroom for lack of any other space in here. In addition, we rescued a nice gray and white male kitty who someone dumped off at a local restaurant. Now we have & kitties! I am out of my mind. Barney is living in my husbands office in the barn brecause he has a urinary tract infection and he did not get along with the other 6. So now I have 3 litter boxes to tend to, and I don't exactly enjoy the whole litter box process. It's a lot of work. And they are all very messy. You'd think they were digging for gold or something. I need lots of ideas too! One of my girls is afraid of the washer and dryer noise.Then, if this isn't enough, the boys like to ambush this little girl. It's like having a house full of toddlers! I love them all dearly though.

I agree with moving in and considering for a time, but here is something to consider while you're doing that: What drove this idea is the first room you enter into from the front door doesn't seem suited to anything but being a dining room. As a living room, it's odd that it's so small compared to the other living spaces, and, as you already said, there's no good wall for the TV. You also wouldn't want that room to be a kitchen for many, many reasons. However, that room would be a perfectly functional, reasonably-sized, not-weird-seeming dining room. If that room is a dining room, that also means the nook under the stairs would be a very logical area for a buffet. If that first room when you enter is the dining room, then the next room on your way into the house should be the kitchen because you want your kitchen and dining room handy to each other. As it happens, the current-dining-room-suggested-kitchen space is large enough and offset enough from the current-living-room-suggested-dining-room that it would be possible to funnel all traffic past the kitchen rather than through it. So your work zones in the kitchen won't be inundated with unwanted visitors. Furthermore, this suggested location for the kitchen is still handy to the back deck for outdoor eating. If those first two rooms become the dining and kitchen, then that leaves the current kitchen space to become the living room. It's a little unorthodox to have the living room as the room farthest from the front door, but it actually makes a lot of sense for this house. The other two rooms really do lend themselves to being the dining room and kitchen, and the current kitchen space is a good size for a living room and has two walls that could be the TV wall. It's also handier to the back deck/yard than the current living room, which I think will actually be a real upgrade. With the exception of shortening the two dining room windows (which isn't a structural change) so they're above counter height, none of the above requires any changes to any of the walls at all. That's nice because I think you'd get the most out of your space if you do bite the bullet and move some walls in the left half of the floor plan. The way it's currently laid out really, REALLY isn't as good as it could be. Since you don't have a guest bedroom downstairs, you don't need a full bath downstairs. You just need a half bath, and the shower space could be allotted to something else that would be more useful. Furthermore, you also don't really need deck access from the left side of the house, and having that deck access means unnecessarily losing a lot of space to a long hallway. On top of that, you have such an odd, circuitous entrance to the master bedroom that is (a) weird, and (b) means unnecessarily losing even more space to walkways. And lastly, there's a couple chopped up, not-optimally-shaped closets. Moving walls around quite freely in that general area, I was able to fit in a large master bath, a large master walk-in closet, a dedicated laundry room (that is accessible off a hallway, placed where the dryer can vent directly outside, is handy to your room, and yet is still far enough from the room that you won't be hearing the machines while you're trying to sleep), and a bonus hallway closet. Note that I shifted the doorway to the hallway from the current-dining-room-suggested-kitchen slightly so that you couldn't really see either the half bath or the master bedroom from the living areas.

@jimandanne_mi Hi, Thanks for the questions! --Windows and doors are not there now. Reasons for the door/window locations: I don't want any windows on the North (privacy, charm, you'd have to see it). South windows bring in the winter sun and there is a seasonal creek 30' away, so will put in a deck. East there is a grove of oaks, which are very pretty. West is not private and plus it gets hot here in SoCal so we don't want afternoon summer sun coming in. -Support post is in the middle of the living room now (put on plan above) but it can be moved north along a straight line up to 6 ish feet from the north wall. -The only current interior wall is a double wall (Purple and red) and goes from N to S outside walls. The purple rectangle is the original building. Then a 'lean to' was built (shown in red) on the outside of the original. The west outside wall of the lean-to is 6' 2" high (shown in green). Thus I am limited to what I can do in the BA. We will be taking out the entire red wall that is right by the purple wall to gain a few more inches. Obviously we will be doing support to open up the purple/red walls for the bedroom. Also, the east and part of the north outside walls are the only place where you can enter at ground level. The south and west, you would have to take stairs to get up to the house. Maybe I'll take pics of the outside to make it more clear. Thanks again!