@druszky Are you certain without doubt that first layer was not some type of primer? Loba does produce a waterborne primer called WS EasyPrime that is designed to receive a topcoat layer within about 45 minutes to 2 hours of primer application. If the first layer was EasyPrime, then 30 minutes later Invisible Protect AT, then you would be OK. It's distressing to me that so many people are after the extreme matte look in coatings. First, it leads to situations like you have here where clearer coats were used first, then a matte coat used last. This retains the clarity of the coating overall but makes repairs more difficult. Also, I am not a coatings expert but have generally noticed with the amount of reading I have done this year on coatings that a higher gloss finish tends to wear better in some cases in terms of not prematurely failing. I don't know if that is because of properties that allow a greater surface resilience or what. Then, you also have the situation @SJ McCarthy mentioned, where wear along a matte topcoat can produce shiny sections. Most people selecting coatings for their homes are probably not informed by the contractors in advance about these types of issues, or perhaps more people would opt for a higher sheen.

Wow! Ok...the good news is you are getting the ENTIRE floor sanded (including the treads) and refinished. Excellent! That's what is needed at this point. Now for the treads...MOST stair treads are RED oak. That MIGHT BE why the treads take the stain a little differently than the WHITE OAK flooring (make sense now doesn't it?). The Loba HS 2K ImpactOil is comparable to Rubio = oiled finish. Here's the link to the GERMAN website (not the USA...the European website is MUCH better for product information). https://www.loba.de/us/products/natural-oils-and-waxes/natural-oils/product/hs-2k-impactoil-color/ The ImpactOil is NOT compatible with the surface finishes like Invisible AT. Do not mix the two. Now...onto the colours. Loba makes their own stains. The original floors had "white line" syndrome = the finished had BONDING FAILURE throughout the home. That was the original problem (regardless of the flooding). The stain was INCOMPATIBLE with the FINISH (whatever the finish was). This is the very reason why you should NEVER mix chemical families (Loba + Loba = success; DuraSeal + DuraSeal = success). The ImpactOil is new(er) the the N. American market. The VERY FIRST THING I would ask the refinishers is: Have you attended the Loba training classes? You are looking for a 'yes' when it comes to both the Invisible and the ImpactOil. If you need support, Loba is just a phone call away. They have their N. American headquarters in N.Carolina.

Hey Laurasreed47, I'm actually getting our floors slightly refinished. We've had them now for about a year and while they look great, they are slightly prone to absorption of liquids. So, out of an abundance of caution, I figured I'd call in a Loba specialist to have them looked at. Sure enough, he said that this was the result of the floors not having been sanded between the final coats. Thankfully we don't need to have them completely redone - they're just lightly sanding our current finish and then applying a final top coat. He said this should do the trick and that this finish is 'one of the best and most durable on the market' so I feel good about it. As I mentioned in the original post, I did everything within my power to try and guide the floor guy our contractor used to the proper application method but was ignored. I think it's been mentioned in a thread somewhere else, but I should have just trusted my gut and found a Loba specialist to begin with. I'm glad we don't have to completely refinish the floors in the end, but it's still a frustration. Also, 'stopping all work' and 'sitting down with contractors to make them make amends' isn't always a viable option. Renovating a co-op apartment in NYC is generally an exercise in constantly making peace with disappointments. Oh, and lastly - the photos I included above aren't really accurate of the final look of the floors. We were still deep in the construction phase (of course I would have liked to have the floors done as the final item but our NYC renovation has been a real nightmare so I took what I could get) so it doesn't really reflect their final look. The floor LOOKS fantastic (I don't know what SJ Mcarthy was referring to with seeing the 'cardboard indentations', to be honest). We did stop work and allow it to cure to a full week when it was first applied but, as mentioned, three coats on top of one another just wasn't enough - the intermediary sanding is crucial. So that's it. Sorry for the long response but wanted to make sure you had all the info. Hope it helps.

When it comes to Loba 2K Supra AT, I would recommend 2 coats of GLOSS and then the last coat is the 'gloss' level you are looking for. A dark floor looks better with a semi-gloss rather than a satin. The 'old' concept of 'water based' aren't as good as oil are long since been debunked. The Loba 2K Supra AT (the A.T. meaning 'Advanced Technology' = toughest finish in their line up) only needs 3 coats. It has been a long time since I've heard a floor needs 5 coats with water based The other option = Bona Taffic HD (super tough as well). If you are working with dark floors I would not work with matter. If you are a 'clean shiny' person (meaning you like to see a shine on your floors after they have been cleaned) then semi-gloss is your go-to gloss level. Satin can be a bit hazy if you work with Loba 2KSupra AT (especially if you work all three coats in satin).