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lindsay_ke

Should I keep this paneling wood, or paint it?

Lindsay K
last year
last modified: last year

I’m going through some kitchen changes. The floor is being replaced, and I’m painting the walls and all the brown trim. I need to decide if I should keep this knotty pine paneling as it is, or paint it. The previous owners did some weird antiquing thing with it where they painted inside all the grooves, then they did a coat of polyurethane over the whole thing. I’m leaving the oak cabinets as they are, and am scared that painting the paneling will make the kitchen feel less cohesive? I love natural materials. I don’t like this antiquing thing they did though….if it weren’t for that I would’ve even be considering painting all of it. Please tell me what you think? I’ll try to include as many pictures as I can. I’m putting a new LVP wood-look floor down as soon as the painting is done. These photos with the floor in them were here when I moved in but had to quickly be pulled up due to a slab leak and subsequent water damage :(










Comments (41)

  • Lyn Nielson
    last year

    I'd paint it, especially if you are keeping the cabinets as is.

    Lindsay K thanked Lyn Nielson
  • Lindsay K
    Original Author
    last year

    Thanks @Lyn Nielson. I don’t know why I feel so guilty painting over wood! Maybe because it’s so expensive now, so feels valuable.

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  • Lyn Nielson
    last year

    are you certain it's real?

    it may be paneling.

    Painting it isn't offensive if the end result is more attractive.

    Lindsay K thanked Lyn Nielson
  • decoenthusiaste
    last year

    The antiquing effect makes the wood look dried out. I would refresh with paint.

    Lindsay K thanked decoenthusiaste
  • teeda
    last year

    I would paint it. I think the wood paneling and ceiling trim break the space up too much. Let your furniture and light fixture be the star of the dining area.

    Lindsay K thanked teeda
  • Jilly
    last year

    I can’t believe I’m saying this (I love wood) … I’d remove it from the wall, but leave it on the ceiling.

    I’ll see myself out.

    Lindsay K thanked Jilly
  • Lindsay K
    Original Author
    last year
    last modified: last year

    @Lyn Nielson it’s definitely real wood! We had to remove some of the baseboards due to the water damage and it is unstained and unsealed underneath the baseboards.

  • Lindsay K
    Original Author
    last year

    @decoenthusiaste I don’t disagree. When I first saw this kitchen, my immediate reaction was to paint ALL the wood haha. After living here for a year I’ve grown attached to it, but the paneling is not pretty close up.

  • Jilly
    last year

    Ok, if you're attached to it (understandable), I’d paint it or try to refinish it.

    Lindsay K thanked Jilly
  • decoenthusiaste
    last year

    Knotty pine is tricky and you'll have to do extra treatment on the knots or they will bleed through.

  • Lindsay K
    Original Author
    last year
    last modified: last year

    @Jilly haha! Removing it has definitely been discussed! They did such a nice job with the trim work around all the windows, so that’s the main reason we are leaving it. I had thought of wallpapering it. There’s this contact paper you can buy that covers the paneling grooves and makes it a flat surface, and then you can put peel and stick wallpaper over that. But…I never see wallpaper below a chair rail, only above (I wouldn’t put this on the ceiling part haha, only the bottom). I think this wallpaper is so pretty, and I’ve had it in my amazon cart.





  • Lindsay K
    Original Author
    last year

    Wallpaper below chair rail. It looks kind of ”off,” doesn’t it? That’s why I decided maybe best to paint it instead.




  • Lindsay K
    Original Author
    last year

    @decoenthusiaste Yes. Lots of prepwork to cover the knotty pine :/

  • Jilly
    last year

    Yes, I think paint.

    That stinks that the previous owners ”distressed” it!

    Do you think it could be refinished?

    Lindsay K thanked Jilly
  • Lindsay K
    Original Author
    last year

    @teeda that’s true. There is a lot going on…

  • Lindsay K
    Original Author
    last year

    @Jilly I would definitely consider refinishing it. I think I’d need help from a pro though. I wonder who would do something like that? It would probably come down to cost of refinishing vs painting…

  • A M
    last year

    Could you do a solid grasscloth wallpaper below the chair rail using the method you described above, and do a coordinating pattern on the top? I know my mother has wallpaper above and below a chair rail in a dining room. It is more or less the same pattern, but in a different layout but coordinating, if that makes sense - wish I had a picture.

    Lindsay K thanked A M
  • Lindsay K
    Original Author
    last year
    last modified: last year

    @A M that’s an idea. I’m going to look at some grasscloth. Thanks!

  • ci_lantro
    last year

    I would remove it and fill in the hole in the ceiling.

    Lindsay K thanked ci_lantro
  • PRO
    HALLETT & Co.
    last year

    Minimally paint it. I would remove it completely from the walls and keep the ceiling for interest (painted)

    Lindsay K thanked HALLETT & Co.
  • PRO
    Beth H. :
    last year
    last modified: last year

    That current finish is in poor shape. I'd redo it.

    If you like wood beadbaord, sand it all down to bare wood. (that shiny poly is bad). then you could do a diff stain and eggshell clear coat.

    Or, it might be less work just to remove it, and the chair rail, and get new wood beadboard. you don't have that much to replace


    painting it all white is also an option


    on the tray ceiling, get rid of that light and refinish the wood. except I would remove the panels on the short portion and just drywall/paint that part.

    you could remove that as well and just do wood planks


    don't do the short vertical sides though. just paint.


    Like this one is. of course you can just paint the wood too. again, it must be sanded smooth first, then primed prior to painting.


    or try painting it black. trim out the lower 'step' portion w/some natural wood planks



    I hope you're replacing that florescent light in the kitchen.


    why don't you want to redo the oak cabs in the kitchen? they look a little worse for wear. You could paint them.


    if you're getting LVP that looks like real wood, putting it up against this orange-ish/yellowish real wood may clash.

    What's the LVP look like?

    what color are the walls going to be?

    Lindsay K thanked Beth H. :
  • Lindsay K
    Original Author
    last year

    Beth H, this is very helpful, thank you!!

    Yes, fluorescent light will go.

    I’d like the cabinets painted, but can’t afford it right now and do not have the time to do it myself…I’ve painted cabinets before, so know what’s involved.

    This is the floor I want. I’m only getting a new floor because of insurance due to the leak. This house needed a ton of work to the in-ground pool, and I also renovated both bathrooms before moving in. My decorating budget is very slim.

    The walls in the kitchen…I am considering painting the walls, trim, and paneling all one color. Maybe SW alabaster or BM Cloud White. Do you think that would look ok to make it all one color, but different sheens? The cabinets would still be the brown color, and then the countertops are almond/cream. I’ve had painted wood paneling in both my other kitchens…but it was always the same color as the cabinets and trim (white)! That’s why I’ve been so confused on how to handle this paneling. This is my first time ever having stained wood cabinets. There would be so many different main colors if I have - brown cabinets, white paneling, and then a different color on the walls. I thought making the walls, trim, and paneling all one color might cut down on some of the noise? Otherwise, maybe refinishing the paneling and keeping it wood is the way to go so at least the paneling would match with the wood cabinets.

    The floor -

    This is what the floor will look like, in the whole house.

  • PRO
    Beth H. :
    last year
    last modified: last year

    the wood floor is nice. If you must keep those oak cabs as is, then I would paint the beadboard (or just replace it)

    The black beadboard might look nice w/the white walls and wood flooring. Then you could do a nice light, and a black/white/cream rug for under your table. Like this one (Ruggable) see how nice it looks w/the wood and black




    woven wood blinds, white wall, imagine the black wainscot, new light,


    Replace those horrible mini blinds w/some inexpensive woven wood blinds. At least for that dining area

    Or just paint it all white (like shown here) new blinds, and add in some black elsewhere if you like


    do the oak kitchen something like this













    Lindsay K thanked Beth H. :
  • Lindsay K
    Original Author
    last year
    last modified: last year

    Thank you, these pictures are beautiful and give me hope! I’m not a huge black person, so can’t see myself painting the paneling black. I could do beige or green though.

    I probably am going to leave the paneling up and paint it.

    I’ll either paint the walls a neutral like in one of these pics and paint the paneling/trim/doors a white trim color or another color. Or, I’ll paint everything one white/warm white color. Which do you think would look better? One overall color, or one wall color and a separate trim/paneling color? I don’t like busy. I just worry all white would feel too boring or something. Maybe with the paneling, plus there are 3 doors to paint, there would be enough sheen difference and texture that one color would not be boring.



    And yes…the blinds. Ugh.

  • PRO
    Beth H. :
    last year
    last modified: last year

    I think either would work. just depends on your furnishings and what you like.

    Not quite black, more of a dark charcoal. it's a nice color w/wood. if you do the walls and trim white, consider painting your doors this color w/matte black hardware



    Make sure to give the beadboard a good sanding to remove any flakiness or uneven spots. (use you hand to feel). after sanding (finish up w/a 220-320 grit to keep it smooth) vacuum and then wipe off clean w/mineral spirits. Now prime. (the spray primer is super easy, but you can get the brush on too). After that dries, give a quick fine sanding w/320 grit again. vacuum/wipe off all dust. Now you can paint.

    I'd do a satin or semi gloss finish in a nice white. Simply White is nice neutral that isn't too stark. (Alabaster is going to be a bit warmer in tone) Oxford White (BM) is also a nice choice.

    You could also use that on your walls. I did simply white on my trim and walls in my living room.

    Or, if you want something warmer,


    I did Light Pewter in my kitchen area. (I do have blacks/whites and oak flooring)

    any of these would also look nice




    how about this combo? It's BM Sea Salt. you can see how it looks next to the oak. for the trim, try the Simply white or oxford white. (don't use White Dove. it's dingy)


    I'd also paint all of the window trim. So here is a warmer off white color on the walls. you can see how it looks on the beadboard too.


    This would look nice w/the oak and the flooring


    enlarge this and you'll see the SW paint colors next to Oak cabinets


    what kind of dining table and light are u using?

    BTW, since you said you're getting new floors, please oh please get new baseboard molding!! please don't use what's there w/shoe molding!


    get a taller, simple baseboard like this


    Lindsay K thanked Beth H. :
  • Lyn Nielson
    last year

    Painting the breadboard and trim the same color white would be nice. I'd even paint the walls the same color. Eggshell and semi gloss to show off the warmth of the natural floor. Looks like a do able project. If the ceiling feature is the same color as the ceiling, a new light fixture would be a feature, for sure. Have fun.

    Lindsay K thanked Lyn Nielson
  • Lindsay K
    Original Author
    last year
    last modified: last year

    Beth, here is my table. More wood haha! It seats 6, and I have 6 of these green chairs. I have other chairs that look ok with this table, and am prepared to use them in here if the green chairs don’t work. I was thinking of removing the brown blinds and hanging drapes, like something kind of boho and sheer. I don’t need much privacy because there’s a horse ranch behind me. I want something kind of cottage-y feeling because of the horses…not rustic, but more like a clean and toned down cottage core look.


  • Lindsay K
    Original Author
    last year
    last modified: last year

    I have no clue what to do for a light fixture above the table. I haven’t started looking for that yet. Have mostly spent time looking at floors, since being on the slab is no fun.

  • PRO
    Beth H. :
    last year
    last modified: last year

    Oh ok, perfect.

    Lots of pics for ideas. see if you like any.

    refinish the table. (you know the drill. sand it down, leave it natural or stain it). chalk paint the base. (yes chalk paint. only because it's quick and easy. if you sand between coats, don't distress it, and apply a clear coat, it looks like regular paint w/o the hassle. paint it white, or that soft sage green to match the chairs. )

    Basically like this,(any color can go below the table). (Sanding is the key to a smooth finish w/chalk paint) I've redone a hundred diff pieces w/all types of paint.



    However, this one i really like

    https://www.addicted2decorating.com/cerused-oak-dining-table-table-makeover-finished.html

    use any stain you like, but the look is incredible.


    Then you could pair it w/the look below (the wall color and textured items)


    Is this the look you like?

    take down the beadboard in the tray ceiling and replace w/planks of wood. (I've used flooring or reclaimed wood when I've done it) get a light similar to that if you like.

    she actually used pallet wood on this one.

    https://www.remodelaholic.com/inexpensive-diy-herringbone-wood-ceiling-using-pallets/



    Or, paint the chairs black (just try it!) bring in a jute rug, woven woods, and some other elements like shown in these pics


    Here's the white on white room. bring in a light like this, jute rug, and paint the chairs.


    you could stain the top darker if you like, chalk paint your chairs, new fabric.


    Or here. how about this. see the tray? now look at the built in bench along the wall.


    This will give you extra seating, omit the beadboard issue, and look 10X better. You can DIY this w/a little help. The finished look comes from the trim work.





    Here, I'll start you off w/two links.

    https://prettyhandygirl.com/building-a-window-seat-with-storage-in-a-bay-window/






    https://www.loveandrenovations.com/diy-bay-window-bench/


    You could even do benches like they show here. not built in's.


    I would do one of these built in banquettes, and redo the top of your oak table. get a rug, maybe redo your chairs or get new ones. get one of the lights shown in the pics.

    or




    Or what about a woven rattan light and a simple flat rug (no dog!)


    I'd still paint your chairs white, charcoal or black w/this look. after redoing your table.

  • Lindsay K
    Original Author
    last year

    Oh my gosh, I love all these ideas. Thank you so much! I’m going to be out the rest of the night, but I’m going to look at all these in a couple hours. I think I like these 3 the best, which all have cream walls. So maybe me the all white idea would be good for me.

  • decoenthusiaste
    last year

    Actually, now that I think about the knots, I'm not sure I wouldn't remove or drywall over all that wood. Refinish the floor for a real wow here.

  • RedRyder
    last year

    Paint all the beadboard white. It gives you texture and stops it from dominating.

    I love Beth’s ideas for your kitchen. She is right about chalk paint- it’s easier to work with once the surface is sanded. White table and black chairs with a wicker fixture sound pretty “farmhouse” to me. It’s a great look.

  • elcieg
    last year
    last modified: last year

    i would keep the beaded board. It looks authentic and has value. Just remember, everything beaded board gets the same paint/sheen. For your room I suggest white. That gives you options to paint the walls a color you love.

    Inspiration:



    Love the grayed green with white wainscoting. It would look so great with the floors and cozy up the room. Love this color, have used this color, and there are so many accent color that will work with it.



    Lindsay K thanked elcieg
  • RedRyder
    last year

    @JP L - A few of us feel as you do - surprised we are advocating putting white paint on wood walls….

    Lindsay K thanked RedRyder
  • cat_ky
    last year
    last modified: last year

    I am in the no painting wood camp too, when its nice wood, but, like the others here, I would paint all that wood, including the ceiling. Actually my personal preference would be to leave the ceiling but, paint it all white, and remove the wainscotting altogether, but, it sounds like you dont want to do that, so , in that case, I would definitely paint it. Its not pretty.

    Lindsay K thanked cat_ky
  • Lindsay K
    Original Author
    last year

    Thank you all so much! I’m glad this awful paneling could unite everyone haha! I’ll no longer feel guilty for painting the wood :)

  • palimpsest
    last year

    I think I would fill in the ceiling detail all together, and just make the ceiling flat drywall there.

  • cat_ky
    last year

    This is funny, Lindsay, its not often this many people agree on here.

  • ci_lantro
    last year

    I agree with palimpsest on filling in the ceiling. There are too many angles and lines going on... in the wainscot & trim & windows & shape of the room & blinds & divided light door and windows. Things are colliding into each other in a not nice way.

    The angles of the bay are enough to stand on their own. The divided lights are maybe? a bit too much. Beyond that, the wainscot, the chop-chop of going around the windows, the chop-chop of the chair rail is just soooo distracting and that is before we even get to the ceiling.

  • Debbie Downer
    last year

    I too usually am on Team Wood . If this was vintage circa 1900s beadboard (ie heart pine harvested from the old growth forests that once blanketed North America) I would send the wood police out to your house i you so much as threatened to paint it :-) It really is that rare, and that valuable. However this is not that. Its just budget farmed wood complete with a lot of knots and splinters probably. STILL.... it is wood and retaining some wood texture to break up the monotony of what might become too much paint is an idea worth considering. It does need to be distinctly different from your floor though - have you considered a more heavy bodied whitewash, silver gray, or mid or dark charcoal stain with clear non yellowing top coat, one that would be almost semi-opaque. With a wall paint color to coordinate.

    Might be worth at least experimenting as part of your decision making process. Youd have to sand anyway in order to paint and the benefit of using a heavy bodied or gel stain means you wouldnt have to sand out every last bit of the previous color. Well its a thought!