Question for those of you who do....
CA Kate z9
last year
Featured Answer
Comments (13)
CA Kate z9
last yearRelated Discussions
ok.. how do I breed color into a seedling ? :)
Comments (1)from what i remember from high school genetics. There are dominate and recessive traits in each cell. so I would get a whole batch of seeds from hybridization and hope they come up with the right thing. because you don't know if you have a DS, a DD, or a RR. D for dominate and R for resissive because DS and DD make the same thing... so hybridize and grow all the seedlings, and you'll know if you got the right thing by what they look like. But if you looking for a color, mix two roses that contain at least a little of that color. That might help......See MoreQuestion for those of you who have used F&B Paint
Comments (4)hi polly, My whole house is painted with F&B. French Gray is a fabulous color and a good neutral with just a hint of green. The F&B Eggshell is a good water-based finish that I used on all my bead board and trim. It would be fine for repainting furniture and cleans up easily with water. Water base/latex paint remains slightly porous when it dries so it is good for painting wood furniture as it allows the wood to contract and expand slightly. Oil base paint can be used but I don't see an advantage unless you were planning to use the chest like a kitchen cabinet. It would seal the wood completely and have a hard finish but the clean up is more complex and there are fumes. (I used oil-base paint on my screen doors which stay on all winter and for exterior house trim). Before painting the chest I'd go over it with a 200 grit sanding sponge (3M at Home Depot) to help remove any current finish that would keep water base paint from adhering well. Then vacuum or wipe it with an old tshirt to remove all the sanded dust and particles. I don't think primer is necessary if you've removed the old finish (depends on what that might be). Just go with 2 coats of the eggshell (satin low-sheen). The good thing about F&B is that it covers quite well as it is thicker than many paints and easy to apply. Also, if the chest gets any eventual wear, the paint will wear through to the natural wood and there won't be another color underneath. It's fine for windows as well. I used F&B primer underneath on windows. The paint is very durable, my woodwork looks great and it cleans up easily. Another benefit is absolutely 0 odor afterward (though more and more paints are offering that these days)....See Morequestion for those of you who know about blinds..
Comments (3)Sometimes it can depend on the type of blind and bracket used to install it with. With the blinds we got from Home Depot, the lady told us they could not be any more than 1/2 inch shorter than the window because then they won't be long enough to fit into the brackets so a 1/4 inch may not even be a wide enough gap. If you have a quarter inch space on each side of the blind, that is ideal. You know, the blinds we got at Home Depot and Lowe's are great. They have wide slats, are super easy to install and very price friendly. I liked them so much I've put them on all of our windows. If it were me, I'd probably just go price them at Lowe's and Home Depot to see if the added cost for new would be that much more. That way you can have them cut perfectly to your window and you'll know you have the right brackets to install them with. (and they won't be used/dirty already) That would make it worth it to me anyways....See MoreA question for those of you who work in the field of horticulture
Comments (13)There are gardeners and then there ARE gardeners :-) It's a bit tricky to explain to someone outside of the industry but horticulture as a career path is largely unregulated and there is a lot of blurring of the lines. Anyone can enter the industry and call themselves whatever they like - gardener, landscaper, landscape designer, etc. - and if they have the skills, they can get away with it. That doesn't mean at all that they are particularly knowledgeable. And yes, unskilled labor from south of the border are often called gardeners - they are often the bulk of a landscape contractor's work force. But that does not necessarily mean they could land a position as an estate or private gardener or work for a botanical garden or in an arboretum. That requires a degree of plant education and knowledge they just don't have. And the employers for these sorts of positions know that and are looking for the educational or experiential background of someone with a lot of plant knowledge. Becoming a professional gardener is a major step up from being just a laborer. Although not a highly lucrative field - not many are in hort - it does require a skill set and experience far beyond that of a common landscape laborer and is a very respectable and rewarding endeavor. What is a Professional Gardener. One of the great things about a career in horticulture - above and beyond the attraction of being outdoors, messing about with plants and doing something you love - is that you can create your own specialized job or position. For example, I am a consulting horticulturist. I visit clients' homes or properties and offer advice on plant identification, diagnose disease and insect problems, make recommendations for soil amending, drainage, pruning or removal and offer plant suggestions. And I am also a landscape designer, so I prepare full landscape designs for those that wish them, as well as smaller, partial designs or planting plans. But I am more often out in the field than I am sitting behind a desk or drafting table (although there is quite a lot of that as well!!). If suitable positions are not widely available in your area, create your own!! You can build up a clientèle of homeowners as a private gardener or become a garden coach or specialize in fine or detail pruning - this is sometimes referred to as "fine gardening" and denotes a pretty impressive skill level. And there is a great deal to be said about self employment as well!! You can be as successful and as profitable in this endeavor as your creativity and motivation allows....See MoreCA Kate z9
last yearCA Kate z9
last yearCA Kate z9
last yearDave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
last yearlast modified: last yearCA Kate z9 thanked Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7ACA Kate z9
last year
Related Stories
DECLUTTERING5 Questions to Overcome a Decluttering Roadblock
A professional organizer shares questions that can help you decide what to do with those items in your ‘maybe keep’ pile
Full StoryPRODUCT PICKSGuest Picks: Egg Platters to Keep Those Devils in Their Place
You just might cluck with delight over these perfectly portioned egg plates for Easter and beyond
Full StoryORGANIZING4 Questions to Help You Organize Your Favorite Photos
Organize your keeper photos with a system that's just right for you, whether it's in the cloud or you can hold it in your hand
Full StoryFEEL-GOOD HOMEThe Question That Can Make You Love Your Home More
Change your relationship with your house for the better by focusing on the answer to something designers often ask
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGNHow to Hide Those Plugs and Switches
5 ways to camouflage your outlets — or just make them disappear
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGN7 Tricky Questions to Ask When Planning Your New Kitchen
Addressing these details will ensure a smoother project with personalized style
Full StoryWORKING WITH PROS12 Questions Your Interior Designer Should Ask You
The best decorators aren’t dictators — and they’re not mind readers either. To understand your tastes, they need this essential info
Full StoryDOORS5 Questions to Ask Before Installing a Barn Door
Find out whether that barn door you love is the right solution for your space
Full StoryDECLUTTERINGCan’t Figure Out What ‘Sparks Joy’? Try This Question Instead
If you can’t decide whether to keep something or let it go, shift your perspective to find the answer
Full StoryARCHITECTURE5 Questions to Ask Before Committing to an Open Floor Plan
Wide-open spaces are wonderful, but there are important functional issues to consider before taking down the walls
Full Story
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)