Hey Scott, I just ordered a bunch of 3 gallon containers. I'm going to purchase a 'Saijo' and one other Asian persimmon. Then, in addition to my 'Meader' American, I'm going to purchase a 'Szukis' and one other American cultivar. I want to experiment, after these threes are established single (well-pruned specimens) in producing an Asian Persimmon duo multi-graft (Saijo and one other) and produce an American persimmon trio (Meader, Szukis, and one other). If they don't work out, it will be ok since I'll have them separately growing (pruned). 1.Since you highly recommend the PVNA Asian types, in addition to the 'Saijo', I want to grow one PVNA (perhaps 'Chocolate'); I live in Zone 6b, and I know that 'Saijo' is said to be cold-hardy down to -10F. What would be a recommended variety of PVNA that would be cold-hardy for zone 6? From what I've read, 'Chocolate' is not an option (whereas other sites contradict this, claiming it would work out in zone 6). 2. What varieties of American persimmon (flavor) are you familiar with? Some have suggested 'Szukis' is the best and that 'Meader' is not necessarily the best tasting variety, comparatively. 3. Do you think that I can, forever, continue to summer prune an American persimmon tree - if I wanted to keep it under 10' feet, or would this eventually stress and kill the tree years down the line? 4. As for the 'Saijo' and PVNA Asian varieties, can I place the tree only 8' from my pavers/walk way - or will the roots destroy the paves? I intend to prune the lowest branches so that the lowest limb is above 6' off the ground so that it can spread without obstructing the walk-way. Thanks, Steve

Hi Dave, Your tree will not "heal" if you try to tape the wounded wood together. The best course of action is to make a clean cut on the trunk just below where the damage occured. You can start at the base of the wound if it didn't split below the broken trunk. By now your oleander has a fairly extensive root system which it will rely on to provide the energy to produce new growth. The new shoots will create the framework for the 'new' tree. Select 3 or 4 that are closest to the wound area and remove the rest. Make sure that these 3 or 4 are well spaced around the trunk. In other words they shouldn't all be on the same side. Remove the guy-wire staking system. A tree should never be staked and tied in this manner and your tree shouldn't need staking now. A tree's trunk must be allowed to move slightly in the wind in order for it to produce 'reaction' wood which makes it stronger. It's kind of like having your arm in a cast. If you can't move the muscles, they become weak and when the cast is removed they are much smaller than the arm that could move. If you find you have to stake your tree (which I doubt) use two 2-inch wood stakes placed about 2 feet from the trunk. Use a rubber hose with wire run inside to create a donut to support the trunk. The trunk should be able to move inside this donut. Details are in the link below. The lollipop shape probably contributed to the damage your tree suffered. The weight of the branches was at the tips basically making it top heavy. As your tree's new shoots grow, allow them to create a more natural shape. Yellow Oleanders have a nice compact form and its genetics will produce this .... eventually. You may decide to replace your tree if it's appearance doesn't suit you. If so, fall is a great time to plant. Good luck. Here is a link that might be useful: Planting Trees and Shrubs

It will rot eventually, unless treated, and even then it will just rot slower. Why not just use it as is for the years that it lasts? It's going to be very very difficult to really protect it. You can get deck preservative to spray on it but you won't be able to get it to soak in very far. The really good stuff at the lumber yard is all 'pressure treated' and you can't do that at home. The decomposition process would be part of its charm, to me. You'll need to decide what you want from a replacement tree before anyone can give you meaningful suggestions. Size and shape, especially.

beany.. i have read this 5 times.. i have no clue what you are getting at ... you start by air layering the trunk ??? .. and then immediately call it a branch ... whats that all about ... if you cut off the trunk.. the single trunk.. on most trees ... it will regrow two or three new sprouts.. and you have to reduce to one trunk.. if thats the form you want .. i have no clue why you would air layer such ... i have never heard nor thought about air layering.. in this situation.. maybe you need to tell us.. more specifically ... about what you are thinking about doing ... beside butchering your young tree .... this better not be another pear post.. lol ... [which is usually how you do it.. when you dont want the screeds ... lol] bottom line.. maybe you ought to give this plant a few years.. to actually branch.. before you dream about propagating it .... ken