I've found they demand an acidic soil and will slowly decline without it. My soil is naturally of a pH of about 5.5 to 6.2 and Sourwood Trees die in it over a period of about 3 years with signs typical of chlorosis before they die. They also seem to loathe the clay soils here in Eastern Kansas and can't take our normal summer droughts even when established. Even if you either have sandstone derived soils or heavily amend a large area and water them regularly to make them happy here, they seem to top out at about 10'(3m) tall or so if you're lucky. So, they never come close to the size and beauty they have out East and I can't imagine them doing much better in Utah than they do here in Kansas.

The advise to not stake a tree, is good for many situations, but there can be many situations and times when that advice does not apply. Birch trees; especially the 'Heritage'culitvar and others These trees tend to grow in height, along with increase their canopy too fast before their roots can develop and strenghen enough to resist root breakage, when prevailing and gusting winds beat againt them. Lots of nursery pot grown Maples; especially newly planted 6 foot tall 7 gallon size pot grown, Sugar Maple,'Firehouse' cultivar; which if not staked when first planted will become uprooted by prevailing and gusting winds, before it can become established. This tree grows a very dense canopy which seems to catch the wind. Some times the Ornamental peach trees like the fast growing columnar 'corintian' cultivar. One of mine which had seemed fairly well established, but since last winter an ice storm uprooted it, now it cannot withstand strong prevailing winds and gusts, unless it is staked. I have two staggerd rows of Thuja 'Green Giants' which were 5 gallon sized ones I planted late last summer. They began falling over from wind forces and other environmental stresses before they could become well established. currently they need to be staked, because prevailing winds and gusting winds have blown at least seven of them completely over. They are currently 5 feet tall and nicely filled out. I have no choice, but to stake these back up. My sourwood tree: when even though it is not a fast grower, still had such a tendency to take a long time to harden off its new branch growth. Thus that new growth curve down toward the ground more easily. This is the only tree I have had to stake in a manner which did not let it sway at all with the winds. At the time, My understanding that trees need to experience wind resistance to harden off and establish well, stood in direct opposition to me as I stake that tree so closely, and prevented the trunk from bending at all. At that time I had lots of doubt about how I was staking it, but also knew for certian that non of my other more reasonable staking techniques would work better. That is why, once the stake broke and I removed it, I felt so happy and amazed to see my tree had harded off nice and straight; and now displays the strength to resist bending or blowing over in the prevailing winds. Keep in mind that when it comes to advice, there are always exceptions to the even the most sound types of logic. There are so many varibles one can encounter even if planting only one kind of tree, but in different places and evnvironments. I have some Thuja Green Giants growing in a more sheltered area, which I never had to stake, yet the ones described above show all signs that they do need staking. I planted 7, one gallon potted sized loblolly trees out on the a vacant lot and never had to stake them, but my friend planted some 3 gallon sized potted loblolly trees, which she first tried to establish without staking, but most of them ended up proving their need to be staked. I have learned that it is best to keep general rules in mind; such as ones, which suggest it is not good to stake or fertilize a tree; yet at the same time, tweek such advice depending on whatever each individual tree displays that it needs. So now, I have planted many trees I did not stake and they never displayed signs of needing to be staked. I have also planted many other trees, which I did stake, whenever they proved that they needed staking. I usually do not ferilize my trees, but have found that a few of my fast growers and even some slow growers have appeared to need fertilizer and then responded well when I chose to give them the appropriate type of good quality, slow release, non-burning fertilier that each individually needed.

Rhododendron, azalea and mountain laurel are all members of the Heath Family just like sourwood, they all have small seed. On the next frosty morning go to your sourwood tree, you may need a ladder. As the sun shines on the capsules they open slightly. Hold a shoebox under them and the seed will rain down as you shake the branch. This happens bit by bit with each frost. The seed is small because it is dispersed by wind. If you have a flat of soil make the top layer sphagnum moss. Carefully sow sourwood seed on the surface, I would cover with a piece of glass. Next Spring hundreds of tiny seedlings germinate. They only grow a few inches the first year, as they get bigger transplant into larger pots. This process is made much easier with either cold frame or greenhouse. Growing members of the Heath Family from seed is really a specialty and not for everyone, you must hover over the seedlings the first few months. Sam

Hi - er, not sure what the status of this plant is, but I noticed that you had some dangling questions here that I thought I'd try to help you with. If you still have the tiny rosettes that fell off and they're still alive, I'd just stick them in some cactus soil, don't water it and leave them in a bright sun-filled area, but not direct sun, while they root. Oh, and leave the stem on, just put the whole stem in your cactus soil. After a couple of weeks you can give it a tug to see if they're rooting, but another way you can tell is if you can see new leaves developing from the center, then that is an indicator that it has rooted. I THINK you can give it a little water then, but maybe google this plant, because summer is supposed to be dormancy period for them (which I know conflicts with what I just said about new leaves growing. hey, we're experimenting here!) As for the dead branches that are shooting off the main stem, I would just gently take them off the stem. Mainly because you don't want to waste any nutrients possibly going to those stems, also because they're kind of unsightly, and thirdly, on the very off chance that at some point down the line they may be spots where new rosettes form! Lastly, if you have a spot outdoors to put it, I would put it there. I haven't had too much luck with my aeoniums inside the house, even when I put them in a sunny window, but the ones that are outside always seem to do better. That said, it looks like yours might be small enough that it's ok to have them inside. Good luck!