If you don't mind using a little Round Up (organic gardener talking here), you can just squirt some on the root after cutting off the top.

Here is what I think I have identified from all contributions so far: 1. Bitter dock 2. Sharp leaved Aster (whorled wood aster) 3. Garlic Mustard - take it away 4. Jack in the Pulpit (we have many, many!) 5. Hayscented fern 6. Buckthorn (not sure it is a choke cherry) 7. Honeysuckle 8. Mayflower (Canada) 9. Arrow wood Viburnum False Solomon Seal Gray Dogwood Arrow wood Viburnum (same as #9 but still very low to ground) Trillium False Solomon Seal Trillium or Jack in the Pulpit Shagbark Hickory sapling Suggestions - Angelica, Avens, Toothwort, Dutchmans Breeches - doesn't really look like any of those Possibilities - Gold thread (? three leaves and this is four) or Partridge Berry or Wintergreen or Pyrola - plant is very, very low to the ground Sensitive Fern The picture is of a fern unfolding. Hard to see. I'll wait to see what it becomes. Trillium or oak seedlings Another type of Fern Another Fern - I'll use the Fern website that was provided. Bulbet Fern Columbine or Meadow Rue ?? Jack in the Pulpit Skunk cabbage?? Queen Anne's lace ?? Squash or pumpkin or watermelon(makes sense since the deer ate all the watermelon plants I had outside the fence) Hnoeysuckle or Fetterbush? Violets

Black Medic, a member of the clover (legume) family that grows best in compacted soils with low levels of organic matter. Short term controls are spraying with plant poisons while long term control is achieved by correcting the soil conditions that it likes to grow in. Start with a soil test for soil pH and major nutrient levels and then dig in with these simple soil tests to see what else needs be done. 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

I had to do some research. Certainty will control quackgrass, but it's a little harsh (it's also a not-too-bad selective herbicide for the lesser fescues, so it would also knock back K-31, believe it or not, although it's not listed on the label). Tenacity does not have quackgrass listed on the label, so it would be irresponsible of me to tell you that it has an effect on quackgrass, but that you would theoretically have to work at it a little bit and time it properly so that the quackgrass were stressed just before winter so that carb storage were low, and probably again throughout spring so it can't recover as summer approaches. Amusingly pursuant to a screeching whine in another thread this evening, it's easy to cough up tons of references stating specifically that Tenacity doesn't work on quackgrass. That's only technically true, in this case, the worst kind of true. It would be an off-label use. Tenacity would have little to no impact on K-31, which is going to shrug and go on living its best life until dosages increase to the point where your main grass is also taking damage.