I'd cut it this year once the rest of the tree began to bud out to make sure the rest of the tree is vital. An oversized branch will not create as much benefit as it will tax the tree on removal IMO. If it is less than a third the diameter of the trunk at point of attachment it might be slightly helpful to the trees establishment, however.

Thank you so much for the advice. I actually did some already, but I really feel like I went easy. I just kept thinking, well...if it needs more, I'll do it next year. I mostly took off little brittle pieces and ones that were crossing like you suggested. I probably spent an hour at least just going over each limb. I think I was able to tell more and more as time went on which branches were old and which were new. I figured all those old twigs and such were just taking up space that the fruit could grow and light could come in. I did take off a couple pretty hefty branches right in the middle, (by hefty, I mean I had to use the saw, about 1 1/2" in diameter) to allow more sun in. I won't do any more and will hope and pray it survives it's pruning!! Thank you again for the advice!

Californian: planted Snow Queen this year and REALLY looking forward to it. Last few days FIRST TIME ever seeing FIG BEETLES which I really adore! Neighbor has junky huge peach tree hanging over my fence - we pick up all lousy peaches and get onto compost immediately. Today I was cutting down the overhanging branches and pulling the fruit and found no fig beetles at work nor telltale damage but peaches has to be why they're here because they ain't eating my figs. Try trapping them with sacrificial fruit as my compost pile seems to be, or putting out soda bottle funnel traps with nasty sweet water if you aren't ready for mechanical harvest by one animal or another. It's also possible the beetles are as repulsed by my baby-cooing at them as rattlesnakes appear to be and are fleeing in disgust - so you might want to try that.

Lou: There is an important question here for the future of your tree, but the photos do not give a clear answer. Are both of these leaders the result of your graft, or is one of them the graft and the other rootstock growth? If one of them is slightly higher than the other, the lower one may be emerging from the rootstock, and should be cut off immediately if you want your tree to be the variety of your grafted scion. Why is that wooden stake in the middle of photo #2? Has it got something to do with supporting the chicken wire around the tree, or are you trying to straighten up one of the leaders? Whether or not both of these leaders are emerging from your grafted scion, I would cut one of them off at the base, then drive a steel stake at one side and tie it up to grow vertically. Then I would prune the remaining leader back a few inches to encourage side branching next season. If your graft has grown over 3 feet in the 2nd season, I think the growth rate is good, but I agree with Ace that your should kill back the competing grasses in a 4-foot diameter circle around the tree, then mulch with an organic material like pine chips to a depth of several inches. If you get a good layer of mulch around the tree it shouldn't be necessary to add any additional fertilizer. And if you take any more photos, back up and give us an overall view of the tree, and a better close-up of the grafted area that is unobstructed by leaves. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA