so you're painting the oak cabs?

are you replacing countertops?

what about your flooring?

lets see pictures.

North light is blue/cooler light. usually. you'll want to pick the right white.

I suggest you read this on the proper white to choose for north

https://www.kylieminteriors.ca/ask-kylie-can-i-paint-my-north-facing-room-white-or-off-white/

and these others

https://www.kylieminteriors.ca/how-to-choose-the-best-white-for-your-kitchen-cabinets/

https://www.kylieminteriors.ca/paint-colour-review-sherwin-williams-pure-white-sw-7005/

here's one on warm whites

https://www.kylieminteriors.ca/sherwin-williams-3-best-warm-white-paint-colours/

Where we run into the most problems is when we try to mix whites.

Do you already have white trim in the rest of your home? Will it continue into the kitchen? Do you have white ceilings? Do they continue throughout your home?

Are you going to have white or colored walls? Is the wall color of the kitchen a continuation of a wall color used in adjacent rooms.

Remember, this is one room in the whole home. You can't decide on a kitchen cabinet color without considering the flooring and the trim and the wall and ceiling colors and how these colors are going to work together.

Jennifer- Kitchen with SW extra White trim and doors. Soffits, desk and OTC microwave, cabinets going, popcorn removed and new can lights. I can change trim and ceiling paint to match with cabinets.
Beth - this is the space getting remodel. I checked Kylie Interiors and Alabaster was good for North facing rooms. So is Pure White. I bought those two samples from Samplize. The Pure White looks real white and Alabaster looked softer.

Herb, that is why I'm getting custom cabinets made that will be 38" high with a 4" crown to the 8' ceiling. Also, they will be 13" deep instead of standard 12".

yeah but alabaster isn't going to look the best w/those tiles. (Just like your current wall color doesn't work w/those tiles. looks too yellowish/green)

Your tiles have an obvious pink/taupe tone to them. you don't want anything in the yellow family.

these are better wall colors w/your tiles

I'd do Snowbound. have the painter give you sample of that one. And pure white.

All Snowbound:

Snowbound and any of these other colors for the walls. (of course you could also do some blues or greens, but I'd wait until after cabs are done.

tile and hardware options that work w/tile. (depending on your countertop selection)

https://www.evolutionofstyleblog.com/painted-kitchen-cabinets-in-snowbound/

Painted oak cabs in Snowbound w/soft blue gray accents. look at the floor. same color tones as your tile; a grayish/taupe

what are the countertops going to be?

and you're removing the sofitts, yes?

Beth, I am looking into Granite; Going tomorrow to the stone yard. I don't want an all white kitchen. My family room is next to the kitchen. I'd like the walls in kitchen and family room (possibly) to be SW Conservative Gray (greenish/bluish gray color). I have it

in my foyer and love it. I will be getting new window treatments in the family room too.

Verbo, Is Emerald (Urethane trim enamel from SW better than ProClassic to use?

no. do not use emerald. I refinish vintage furniture and have used every type of paint you can think of.

ProClassic is fine for wood trim and dressers, etc. I don't think I'd use it on cabinets though. (and Emerald is worse. fine for drywall)

BM Advance-I like it better than ProClassic. Has a long cure time though.

Fine Paints of Europe Hollandlac is probably the best oil base paint on the market.

I've also used their hybrid, Eco. A better choice for cabinets, but difficult to paint with.

You said you're getting new cabinets? from where? someone is building them? what material are they using?

The really good cabinet makers will use a pre cat lacquer or the brands that Verbo listed.

I had custom built Birch cabinets made 18 years ago. 3 years ago I decided to have them painted. my cab guys used a lacquer. (I don't know which one) Color matched it to Simply White. They came out great

( I did have the doors refaced w/maple and MDF center panels)

They held up very nicely. no chips or peeling.

I'd really press for some other type of cabinet coating then ProClassic. I've used ProClassic on some furniture, and it's held up fine, but kitchen cabs are diff.

do you have it in the budget for new floors? I ask because trying to get granite to match those floors might be difficult.

Before you commit to cab color, you need to find a countertop. And if you MUST keep those tiles, you will have to find a slab that goes w/those floors.

you could do solid black granite. or maybe a soapstone. or a quartz that looks like soapstone (Silestone Eternal Charcoal)

But most budget granites aren't going to work all that great w/the flooring.

River white may, if you can find one like this w/the taupy gray tones:

another version, Colonial White (they have diff names for these slabs) in a leathered version:

This one is White Ice and also would work w/your tiles. As does the wall color and tile.

If you can find TajMajal w/these tones, it will work w/your tile floors. This is a quartzite and will cost more than the granite. IT's a beautiful stone.

Fantasy Brown (dolomitic marble) is common and would probably work w/those tones as well.

If you can get someone to help you demo the floor tiles, and ready the substrate, you'll save 1-2K

Why are you keeping the floor with custom cabinets ? Those floors will limit your color choices and it will look like a new kitchen with an old floor unless you are really careful .

Verbo, Beech wood with MDF panels if painted. Joinery is mortise and tenon, 3/4” plywood box. He has painters that only do the cabinets; stain or paint.

Beth, I can buy new floors if needed. I don’t want wood in the kitchen. What type of tile would you suggest? I saw White Ice Granite and it did work well with the tile but it was only a sample so I will look for it at the stone yard.

what borders the kitchen besides that carpet? anything else?

I'd go for a larger format tile (24x24), Like this neutral, warmer toned tile,,

I like the Cavatina tiles too. (you can look them up for more pics) Tilebar carries them and so does IvyHill tile (home depot and wayfair)

those sellers also carry this porcelain that resembles a terrazzo type of tile. also in a 24x24. I've actually used this tile on a project. it's very nice. Called Rizo. this one is silver/beige.

An 18x18 size would also work. I like this Basalt tile

or maybe a 10-14" hex tile.

an 18x36 matte porcelain in a warm charcoal. this one is pretty too

It just depends on the style you want. I could show you 100 examples, but until you get your style down, the countertop and colors you want, it's not going to do much.

why don't you want a nice engineered hardwood?

if you remove those upper cabs in the middle of the room, you could have this layout. The wood, or even a good quality LVP, would look like this.

Beth, I have engineered hardwood (medium color) in foyer, dining room , living room, and hallway buts up to the kitchen tile. Bigger tiles would be less grout too. The cabinets above the peninsula will be removed as well as the soffits. I like Traditional furnishings so I think the kitchen cabinets should reflect that. Maybe a raised panel or shaker with beaded edges. Like you said I will get a better idea once I start to look for granite and a new floor tile.

What I was asking is if you want to change the white trim, ceilings and doors throughout the house or just in the kitchen? If you have Extra White everywhere else and change only the kitchen you are going to have two whites fighting each other.

It is like wearing white shorts with a white t-shirt. Unless the two whites are pretty darn close in color one will look yellow next to the other or one will look gray/dingy next to the other, they fight each other.

If you are having all the ceilings, all the doors and all the trim repainted you don't have to consider what is already there. If not you have to keep this in mind. How are you going to transition from one white to the next if you use different whites in different rooms?

As far as the flooring goes, you have the same pink undertones in the carpet in the family room. What is in the other rooms? If you change the kitchen flooring are you willing to change the family room flooring too? It will look pink next to the kitchen if you pick something less pink in the kitchen.

You don't want to go down a rabbit whole of having to pick new colors for your entire home if you budgeted and planned on just replacing cabinets and painting the kitchen.

I happen to love taupe (the color of your tile and carpet). It is my neutral color family. I have used various shades of taupe as my neutral for 25 years. Had white before that.

Taupe is cleaner feeling than most of your beige / greige neutrals and will make those colors look dingy.

I like Snowbound with your flooring, but adding a pink white to the taupe flooring combination may add limitations to the granite and other color choices as you decorate room by room.

A more neutral white may give you more options.

I would probably choose Pure White. It works with your flooring and will give you far more options when picking your counter top and backsplash.

You already have this option in your home. Extra White is very cool/gray compared to the other whites you have been looking at. It works, but it is not my favorite white with Taupe.

You can see here just how yellow Alabaster is and how the yellow fights with the taupe. I would not use Alabaster.

Here is Snowbound. See how much pink it is pulling next to the Conservative Gray?

and finally, Pure White. It has just a touch of yellow, but overall it is a very neutral white and works with the flooring and works with the green without pulling too warm or too cool.

I would look for the granite and pick that with the taupe and conservative green in hand before I would pick the white. Look at the granite, flooring, wall color and white together. If possible, look at the combinations in natural daylight. Natural daylight highlights undertones and makes them so much easier to see than any type of indoor lighting.

Running the same wood floor into the kitchen will simplify the renovation and look much better.

Jennifer, we are going to replace the family room carpet with hardwood that matches the rest of first floor. The carpet actually is more tan/gold so it went well with the tile. Pure white looks pretty bright and more gray when natural light is gone. Alabaster stays the same and looks warmer with very little yellow (actually it’s a pretty soft warm white with the tile. Snowbound looks pink with the tile during natural light and grayish at night. I’ll know which white to chose on Thursday when I go to the granite yard. Contractor will start in 3 weeks.

Beth, If I can’t find a granite that works with the tile, I will replace it. Wish me luck!

The carpet actually is more tan/gold so it went well with the tile. Pure white looks pretty bright and more gray when natural light is gone. Alabaster stays the same and looks warmer with very little yellow (actually it’s a pretty soft warm white with the tile.

Everyone's monitor render color differently, there's nothing about a swatch or sample online that's useable information.

Maybe it's because I've seen so much of that tile before but it was evident to me that it's not just a blend of "taupe" and gray.

Which is why I said Alabaster or Pure White would work and let your current trim/door color inform the choice.

Getting clear on what all will be replaced will help make paint color decisions. Figure that out and then choose the paint color last.

Lori, I know everyone’s monitor renders color differently that is why I explained what the colors looked like to me seeing it in person. SW Extra White is the trim color but it can be painted to Pure White or Alabaster. The hardwood is a medium brown, copper color. The tile is my main concern.

is there a reason he doesn't want hardwood to extend into the kitchen? when I redid mine, I took up carpet and tile in the kitchen/family room and replaced w/an engineered french oak. it's gorgeous. makes the space look larger and goes beautifully w/the new kitchen design. I've spilled tons of water on it, pet puke, kitchen messes, etc, and it's wiped up w/o any issues. it's no more work than cleaning tile. (actually less if you think about the grout issues).

you should really revisit that thought. Plus, any granite you get is going to work a neutral wood floor.

And price-wise, it shouldn't be any more than tile. (it might be a little less)

Lori, I know everyone’s monitor renders color differently that is why I explained what the colors looked like to me seeing it in person.

That is definitely helpful.

Beth, I put the medium stained hickory engineered wood in my foyer, formal living and dining rooms nine years ago. I contemplating putting it in the kitchen and family room also but I felt it was too dark and I wasn’t ready to do the kitchen cabinets and counters then. I figured the porcelain tile would be a tile that I could work with since it’s a pretty neutral color.

ok, so you plan on matching up that 9 year old flooring w/the same stuff in the carpet room?

Or are you getting a diff wood altogether?

If your kitchen is dark (and mine is dark) then you bring in more lighting. Unless you're doing a very dark stain wood, there isn't going to be a diff between wood and a tile.

What the wood does is make one cohesive space.

this was mine prior to new kitchen. I had the slate tile in here, and directly behind the camera angle was all carpet. (and a diff wood floor in the dining room area).

everything was torn out and I had this engineered french oak flooring put in.

Beth, yours looks very nice! I found a floor that has the same sheen, Hickory wood and color of my 9 year old floor. The only difference is mine is 5" planks and the other floor is multiple sizes, i.e. 4" 5" & 6. I don't know if that will matter? Could I do a wood floor in the kitchen and family room that is lighter than the rest of the house? It would be one cohesive space in the kitchen and family room with the lighter floor. The transition pieces would be the hallway to the kitchen and the dining room to the kitchen which would be the older Hickory floor. I do not want to replace the other wood because it is still as beautiful as it was installed 9 years ago. It would be a shame to trash it.

Beth, good ideas. Thanks

This discussion of SW or BM Advance type paints is pointless. Painting is a skill that involves experience developed using particular products and particular equipment in a specific manner. It is very complicated. You absolutely cannot get the same high level of quality using a different paint product. You can get a color match in the product the cabinetmaker is currently using. Anything else will give you a lower quality finished product.

Save up to get your continuous wood flooring so it looks like you have "improved" things. Then make your paint choice. I have all SW Alabaster in our home and love the color. I think it would work well with your direction and it works with the "whiter" trim as well. I would have cabinets painted in a "dust free" room, with proper coatings. So, you will add some to your project with new flooring, but your end outcomes will be so much better. I have engineered hardwood and it is totally easy to keep clean and nice looking. I have had solid wood flooring as well, and as long as a proper couple coats of poly are applied and allowed to cure properly; they are fine in the kitchen. But sure, hope you can get rid of that tile. It will spoil everything. Good luck!

A word or two on SW Conservative Gray. It has an LRV of 63-64 so it is going to read less reflective of light than you might want in kitchen. It is in the green/yellow Hue family and that means it can go slightly green depending on your lighting. It is a cool color but it might be too dark for the brightness you are looking for. Decide on flooring first, then cabinet color and last wall color. I would be looking for an LRV of at least 70-75. The LRV (Light Reflective Value-0-100. 100 being most reflective/light bright) and it is noted on the back of SW paint chips or paint deck.

Well, I went to the stone yard. Dolomite Fantasy Brown is gorgeous. Typhoon Bordeaux was beautiful too. Maybe too busy?Going to Cambria warehouse tomorrow to look at quartz.

Fantasy Brown is beautiful but depends on slab. Typhoon Bordeaux is “yesterday”. It’s gorgeous but out of favor especially with light off whites. Quartz (Cambria brand) is nice. I just prefer actual stone. I like how real stone feels and functions.

Think about backsplash. If you desire busy backsplash then go calm on countertops and visa versa. Taj Mahal is gorgeous stone (it’s quartzite not to be confused with quartz). Quartzite is harder than granite. I have had so many homes but my all time favorite is Taj Mahal. And it’s coming out of the quarries lately more toward the colors you are looking for. Check it out!

Flo, I love the look of Taj Mahal. I’ve seen it with more gray than beige. I’ll look again. Thanks

Take a look at Madreperola as an alternative to Taj.

Always go see actual slabs. Take photos of the bar coded labels on the ends of slabs you like or put on hold. It is how you can ensure you get the slab you want. Good idea Lori on Madre Perola. Here’s one example. Call around to find granite yards that are stocking it. It takes sone leg work to find the perfect slabs. But well worth the effort.

I went to Cambria and this is a flat lay of what I like. The Interior Designer helped me there. Quartz is called Hermitage (soft white with Gold) champagne gold handles, BM Silver Satin paint color for cabinets, BM Sea Haze for walls.

I like it. It's like the quartz mimics the vibe of the pattern in the floor; it works because it's larger, more graphic scale.

If some day you can or want to replace the floor, that quartz choice would not be limiting.

The sample of BM Silver Satin looks grayish in my North facing kitchen. Now what?

Nice choices. Lori can help find similar color that won’t “gray” out so much.

@vjs12 - Silver Satin is described by BM as "Crisp lavender-gray undertones define this sleek shade of white".

Look at it next to the white in the counter you just picked (which is lovely with your floors).

You probably have a pretty full spectrum of whites by now.

If I were trying to find a white that worked with this floor and this countertop I would take these samples outside on a sunny day look at them in natural sunlight. There is nothing better than daylight to see how colors and things work together.

Took some pictures while I was testing colors for my own home. It is best if you test with the flooring and counter laying flat and the white standing up, just like they will be in your home. (vertical or horizontal plane).

Please note - all the paint samples are large - 8 1/2 x 11 and painted, not the paper samples from the paint store or little 1 x 2 or 3" x 4". I usually test whites using something even larger - more like 24x36, but will use the 8 1/2 x 11 to narrow my choices, then paint a large sample before I commit. Whites don't have much color so large samples are the only way to really see if it is going to do something funny on a large scale.

I looked on Cambria website for Hermitage and I think it is quite busy pattern. I would see in person a whole slab to assess this pattern. I always stress people see full slabs in person. Then make other selections. I also like a more blue gray with your tile and future wood flooring. Champagne pulls would be very pretty with that combo. Once those decisions are made, then select wall color. Take a look at BM Pale Oak and SW Panda White.

Here are some screen shots from Cambria website. Seems like too much pattern to my eye? Too brown especially for future changes? I would look for other less busy looks.

Playing with ideas for you.

I think that is the same floor tile I had in parts of my previous house and it is quite "yellow".

Is it the Monocibec Graal in the Arras color?

Chispa, No mine is called Sinclair. It is lighter than Arras. The pictures I post show the floor to be darker than it really is.
Flo, thanks but I really want white cabinets instead of gray. I’m rethinking the quartz I showed above in the flat lay. I agree with you. It will be too busy and more gold than I like. At least now I know I will be able to find a quartz that works with the tile.

Ok, so that color was definitely less yellow than Arras and had more cool tones ... if I remember correctly as it has been 10 years since I used that tile! I went with the Arras because all the finishes in the house were already on the warm side.

It was great durable porcelain tile. I dropped half a can of paint on it once and it cleaned up perfectly.

Ok. Easy to do cabinets in a form of white. Glad you “see” the busyness of that quartz. Cambria has a wide variety of patterns and colors. I would look at some that are whiter. They have sone that have both warm and cool coloring so you can use seamlessly when you change flooring.

Tourquay (Cambria) and Lyra (Silestone) are two you might want to check out. These on line pictures do not reflect the colors properly at all. You have to see slabs.

Fantasy Brown Dolomite (not sure if I like the fact that it will scratch or etch?) or Bianco Antico Granite ( creamy white background with some taupe) seem to work with the travertine floor tile. SW Alabaster or SW Pure White cabinet color? Thoughts? After looking at a number of stoneyards, Natural stone appeals to me better than quartz.

Natural stone will look better . Why not just get marble ? Yes over time it can etch but people who have it seem to love it . And anyway you can get it polished after a few years .