iris - do you mean just the glass? I think you have to get the whole frame it's in also. maybe not change out the opening framing tho. I'm sure something even from HD/Lowe's would be better than what was originally installed in the mfg home (think builder's grade in development homes). tho, yrs and yrs ago the x and I changed sliding door into a series of paneled glass windows (floor to ceiling like the patio doors) and 1 regulation door. loved that change! I may even do that eventually in my future 'new' mfg home - I noticed that the patio door frame seems ... bent. will find out after it's moved here and leveled. "A couple other simple changes that made a big impact were changing all dated door and cupboard hardware and ceiling lights." lol! I showed my sister a pic from my future home with one of those cheap glass hanging 'lamps' with shiny gold trim and I said 'that will be going' - and she said 'why?' ... duh. it'll be outa there asap! I love cheap in price... I just don't want it to look cheap. I was very happy to see that all rooms except kitchen and baths had ceiling fans and lights! that would have really added up to wire for those and put them in! I do need to figure out what to change one of those rectangular florescent lights boxes with tho... got one of those in the kitchen. It'll have to go eventually also. I have 2 here in the kitchen -but this place was always to be temporary anyway... it just stretched into 11 yrs... hard to believe I've lived like this for 11 yrs!

I have a tall closet, w/ a tall door even, and I find that storing stuff on the topmost shelf is hard because I have to maneuver stuff down in front of everything to get it into the doorway. So I used short "under-bed" boxes up there. The standard "stash a lot of stuff" bins are too big to make the turns. (and that's w/ a closet door that's as tall as a regular door plus a transom) These are 9.5-ft ceilings, so note that there's only about 14" of space above the door opening (see the corner w/ the ceiling in it, on the far right?)--and it's still a tight turn. So, don't let the topmost shelves stick too far out into the space, or you won't be able to get anything in or out. And of course, pockets on the back of the door would be nice for mittens, gloves, dog leashes. And as he's framing, remember that having space "around the corner" from the door frame (when the door is 24" wide, but the closet is 36") is really annoying and hard to get to. So try to have your doorway go the full width of the closet.

The transition seasons are hardest, aren't they? But I would say either store only TWO coats (a lightish one for whichever season you have, and a heavier one for that season) in that closet. At the very least, I would say that wool dress coats should go in the bedrooms; they're probably not used daily. And when you want them (dress-up days), you'll be willing to go get them, probably. (And if you're not, then maybe you don't really need to own them--I do not ever buy my kids, or me, dress coats.) And rain coats can go in the closets, because if you need them, you'll REALLY need them, and you'll be willing to go there to get them. And you probably don't use them *that* often. Or, start storing ALL coats in the bedrooms. At the very least, perhaps you can train yourself to travel all the way into your bedroom before you take your coat off; then it's just the 2 boys. (I bought a Lands End Squall, bcs it's light AND heavy.)

@gracie01 brick veneer (not structural), if old and moisture gets in, can falter and fall. It's not the brick that fails, it's the wall ties holding the brick to the backing material, either wood or metal framing or another brick or stone wythe that fails.Failed wire brick tie. In some cases, through negligence or ignorance there may not even be ties! Edinburgh Oxgangs Primary School veneer wall collapse. No ties used at all, according to a BBC investigation. Brick veneer is largely a 20th C. phenomena, with the first documented use occurring in 1899. As the metal ties rust away, support is lost and the veneer moves. In only one municipality I've built in, were longer-lived stainless ties required. Otherwise there were no requirements re ties. If the mason were supplying ties, count on the cheapest and flimsiest available. In the house we're currently living in, the masons used nails to tie the brick to the structural block. Where the back of the block is visible in the garage, around the end of each nail a quarter sized section of block has fallen off as the nail rusted. The house will be demolished by the next buyer, so there's no concern.