When the effluent rises it has some velocity, and hence momentum. When it enters the hood it has a tendency to "reflect" and curl downward and potentially escape. If the hood is deep enough (top to bottom) and the hood fan flow is high enough (cfm) the curling effluent will remain captured and will be exhausted. The barrel design in the picture looks to me (without examining one) like it has adequate depth. W.r.t. ya think's question a few messages up: First I would say that the change from vertical to horizontal should be as large a radius curve as you can fit to minimize pressure loss (as well as noise). The effluent momentum (which is a vector) is being changed in direction. This is akin to stopping it and starting it up again. If it can slide along a curve, the momentum loss is significantly less. There is one commercial ducting source I came across once that uses 90-degree transitions, but embeds a curved shape within the duct to improve the flow. I find it hard to answer the question of what questions to ask. Usually, the answers aren't available. Ideally, one would want to know the fan curve (flow vs. static pressure) and try to estimate all the pressure losses (including the pressure one might pull the house down to with or without make-up air) to see what the real maximum flow rate will be. This can then be compared against estimates of effluent generation rate calculated from the reference below. The power used might be adjusted to represent your cooking style, as rarely would one have all burners on maximum and cooking at the highest pan temperature. One thing is certain, flow rate in the hood has to at least equal the flow rate from all the active burners and pans, and arguably should be higher due to imperfect effluent collection. Implied above is that the hood manufacturer can supply pressure loss of the filters vs. flow rate, as well as that of the hood transitions. Getting that data, even if it were ever measured, would be unlikely, me thinks. I suggest that various hoods be "audited" in showrooms to gain a feel for their noisiness versus their designs. The reference worth reading, even if one doesn't intend to use it for calculations, is "Thermal plumes of kitchen appliances: part 2 cooking mode," by Risto, Hannu, and Pekka. (I've found it on-line whenever I've looked for it. Part 1 is also interesting.) If you do use it for calculations, please note the following apparent errors in their Equation 1: The constant should be 0.05 not 5. The units of phi should be kW, not W. (these corrections make their tables consistent with the equation) You will need a scientific calculator or counterpart software to do the exponents (unless you are very old school and know how to do logarithms). You will also need to convert BTU to kW and cubic meters per second to cubic feet per minute. This is left as an exercise for the student. [insert sociopathic laugh here] kas

75 kWh/day is total electrical usage during the single coldest month of the year, but let's say baseline (ignoring greater lighting usage in winter, most of our lights are CFLs) is 34kWh/day in spring when neither heat nor AC required, the heating system requires 20-41 kWh/day during the winter and maybe 10kWh/day for AC when very hot, but most of the time our monthly electrical usage (with 2 kids and an electric dryer doing average of 7 loads of laundry a week, 1 load of dishes a day) is in the 30's. Total electrical usage (not just HVAC) for past 12 months was 17,943 kWh - rates have varied but total paid was $2709.20, or average of 225.77/mo. Our current budget plan monthly payment is set at $236 - in August we will get a credit if we have paid too much since last August. I believe well drilling cost $9000 for 3 wells - but you may pay more than $3000 for 1 well, I don't know if we paid more because one well is 500ft deep and they had to frack, or if we got a "discount" since the rig was here and all 3 were drilled the same day. Prices also could have changed in 7 years. We didn't pay for trenching since my dad did it. You have to ask if prices include excavation/drilling. Estimates we got in 2007 included 4 ton Envision with 80 gal hot water heater app. $35,750 ), 4.5 ton unit (no specs) ranged from $27,500 - $32,500 (I'm looking at my notes), we went with 4 ton Climatemaster and the 2 80-gal hot water tanks, it was quoted at $27,773, I'd have to look at checks to see what we actually paid since that did not include grouting, etc. done by the well drillers. None of the quotes included well drilling or trenching, or electrical work. There was a $2000 rebate from CL&P at the time - federal tax credit was $500 according to quote - I think that was the max available, I'd have to check the 1040 for that year to see if that was what we got or if it was something different. Rebates/credits only figured on cost of equipment, not labor. Not sure what the credits are now.

I appreciate Sena's layout. It was very nice, but I would rather not have the refrigerator in the dining room. The current peninsula is at the end of the kitchen but technically in the dining room. Sena's suggested putting the refrigerator in that spot. I would love a balance between function and form. Unfortunately, the space is tight and I have no choice but to work with it. This photo was taken from the dining room. The base cabinet shown is where Sena's suggested putting the fridge.

Rules are meant to be broken. Lol. If there is a new mantel i like the width. Smaller will encourage more accents on mantel. But all in the eye of the beholder. Art is personal. I like the clean look of this art. A new fixture would also enhance the room But just offering other options.