Potential elderberry bush, revisited
Jason, zone 7A, near Greensboro NC
last year
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Jay 6a Chicago
last yearJason, zone 7A, near Greensboro NC
last yearRelated Discussions
Elderberry
Comments (22)Molly, Black Lace can be stubburn to flower, and it should flower if you have another bush or not. It may not fruit without a 2nd bush. I would try Black Beauty, Laciniata or Emerald Lace. You need another cultivar for fruit, not the same one. When I think about it Nigra species is somewhat self fruitful, so you don't need a 2nd bush although a 2nd bush would make them produce more fruit. It's canadensis that is not self fruitful. If you want fruit though best to grow one meant for fruit. Bob mentioned he has Samdal a nigra species that fruits very well. Samyl fruits even better! Both can be obtained from Nourse Farms. I would get that for fruit. Lace and the others are not really great producers as you are finding out. Well some of the ornamentals produce OK Emerald Lace produces fairly well. I like the variegated species, but they too are not grown for fruit as much and require some shade. The really white one Sambucus nigra 'Pulverulenta' is tough to grow. I lost one this year due to the extreme winter. I replaced it this spring. I just like it so much, I'm still trying to figure out how to grow it well. Now the other variegated species Sambucus nigra 'Albovariegata' grows like a weed, but is susceptable to fungal disease, it needs to be sprayed. It is also a very handsome plant. Mine is getting big! I grow them at my cottage as I have low light there and am trying to find low light plants that are edible. it has been a difficult challenge. Cornus Mas though grows well there, and so I have a couple cultivars of that up there. Molly I would try feeding your bush with Holly-Tone. The PH might be too high, and the complete nutrition of Holly-Tone may help if maybe it is a lack of a micro-nutrient. Holly-Tone has sulfur and will lower PH slightly over time. Adding iron might help too. Elders like a PH of around 6.0 A soil test could help determine the problem. Sometimes in low light they will not fruit. ....See MoreConsidering re-doing my pond = bentonite; dumping liner?
Comments (1)Hi Steve, Let me answer some of your concerns. If you have a tree branch that is large enough to tear the liner in the pond will also tear up the clay. In each case they both will leak. The liner can be repaired usually fairly easily. That is also true of the clay. The liner has a life span of about 50 years. Yes animals can chew a hole in the liner but far less likely than with a clay pond. You won't have a problem with either moles or voles. You can have a problem with chipmunks and mice at the surface of the pond or muskrats below the water level. But the liner will be easier to repair in any case. I have had cattails planted in liner ponds for 20 years and they have never put a hole in the liner. With clay they would not have a problem growing through the clay. For the most part any unnatural creases will disappear once algae starts to grow. Yes there can be some waste with liner ponds and liner can be heavy. I would say that all these things came from the website that was trying to sell you on clay. They told you some of the downsides of a liner pond but not the down sides of a clay bottom pond. Almost all clay ponds leak. It is just a question of how much. Clay ponds are almost never as clear as a liner pond. Any roots can grow though the clay. You talk about ground water lifting the liner. If you have a clay pond that is totally sealed the ground water will lift the clay until it leaks ground water in. Once that happens when the ground water goes down the clay will continue to leak the liner won't. Getting debri out of a clay pond is a pain. This is just a few of the problems with clay ponds. There are more and I won't go into them here. There is a reason why most smaller ponds a liner and not clay. Mike...See MorePatience revisited
Comments (20)Another aspect of patience is prematurely judging a rose before it has matured and settled in to its surroundings. We sometimes forget that rose trials give bush types two years in the ground, in the same place, and climbers three years, so they mature and establish themselves. Very often, accurate judgements can't be made about the real value of a plant when it's kept potted as many just don't perform well in pots. The rose Ralph Moore named for me, Kim Rupert, is an excellent example. "I" am not happy "potted", but put the plant in the ground and let it establish itself and it pushes good growth and continually covers itself in the mossed, striped flowers it provides. Until the planted rose has a chance to put feet under it, produce the root system required to support the top growth expected of it, is there any wonder it doesn't please? Add the necessary time the beneficial fungi and bacteria which establish themselves in "happy" situations which can help to reduce, even prevent disease and some insect issues, and it becomes even more apparent how premature we can be in condemning a rose before giving it a fair break by getting it into the ground properly, where it is best suited and leaving it alone to mature and establish itself. A thoughtful friend really wanted me to have a plant of a florist rose she felt I would enjoy. It honestly wasn't something I was drawn to for garden or breeding use, but it was important to her, so I graciously accepted. It wasn't very impressive in a gallon pot. It didn't flower much and the foliage wasn't very attractive. Plus, it was rather prone to black spot in that pot, so I still wasn't favorably impressed. I figured upsizing it into a two gallon to keep it alive would be the only fair thing to do, so I repotted it. I shouldn't have been surprised when new foliage began pushing all over the plant and it began flowering much more impressively. And, the black spot appeared to be reduced. Increasing it to a five gallon has really allowed it to show me how much better a rose it can be than I had originally thought. The foliage is actually pretty nice for an unspoiled greenhouse type. The flowers are significantly better, lasting a very long time on the plant, probably a bit too long as they hang on long past their attractive period, but that's what a cut flower is meant to do. At this size of plant, it actually impressed me as possibly worth playing with in raising seedlings, and it accommodated me by being fertile both through pollen and setting a decent crop of seeds. Whether the seedlings will be of any value will take time to discover, but the improvement in the quality of the plant and my impressions of it are dramatic. As a band, I probably would have rated it as "not worth the effort to shovel prune." As a two gallon plant, I considered it as worth further evaluation. As a more mature, five gallon plant, it's definitely one I am willing to give soil space. It's ONLY taken me two years to get it this far. Kim...See MoreCutting Roses..Best Options?
Comments (6)I planted about 6 HT's from the Freelander series about 5 years ago. I was not impressed with them as a garden rose because most of them had a very small bloom for a HT (about 3-4") and a couple of them had a strange, unattractive to my eye, color when they opened ('Cherry Freelander' being an example). I only have one left, 'Masquerade Freelander' as I shovel pruned the others....See Morefloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
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last yearlast modified: last yearJason, zone 7A, near Greensboro NC
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