Need help with basement rough-in plumbing positioning!
Hey guys :) I am about 2 months away from closing on my first house - new build by Toll Brothers.
Not knowing much about how "house' works, we opted in for rough-in plumbing in the unfinished basement because I was told it's always worth it when we were choosing options.
A few weeks ago, during our pre-drywall inspection, we noticed a few things:
1. rough-in plumbing for the tub was off about 2ft from sink and toilet rough-ins.. which builder agreed it was a mistake and would fix it.
2. The "original" positioning of the rough-ins were about 7 ft off the concrete wall highlighted in pink ( builder plan attached) due to the concrete foundation with metal pole lined up in a solid line adjacent to the proposed bathroom location.
3. Against the original plan, furnace was actually installed beside the concrete wall (pink highlight) which I think is actually the right location.. not sure what the builder was thinking putting the furnace 7ft apart from the concrete wall in the original plan
Now, with builder admitting a mistake with #1 + me and my wife not liking #2 situation + #3 also not in the "right/original" position it's supposed to be, builder gave me an option to move rough-in plumbing closer to the concrete wall (pink highlight).. but we would have to lose tub rough-in as it won't fit there due to the reasoning in #2.
So, with all that said, I wanted to ask what your thoughts are with having a bathroom in somewhat middle of the basement, and if you agree that bathroom in the middle of the basement doesn't make sense, how would you suggest we position toilet and sink rough-in (I would have to lose bath tub) around the L shaped concrete wall highlighted in pink?
Just writing this is super confusing, but hopefully it makes sense to whoever is reading and trying to help out :) Thanks in advance!
picture 1: original builder plan for the basement
picture 2, : How the rough-ins would look like as per the original plan (picture taken by the already moved-in neighbor)
picture 3: while wrapped are a would be the pink wall in the plan. where you see the wine rack is where we are thinking of positioning sink and toilet, would love your recommendations,
Comments (10)
PROGN Builders L.L.C
last yearRelated Discussions
Bathroom plumbing rough in for future finishing?
Comments (6)No doubt that builders price is an off the top of his head price for a completed 1/2 bath, including all walls & fixtures, but as a plumber I can tell you the truth of the matter is, based upon the information at hand it is impossible to even venture a guess for the roughin cost. First of all, what is the depth of the municipal sewer? What is the terraine from the sewer location to the house? Is it level or does is slope up or down, and if it slopes, what is the height or drop of slope? What is the length of the setback from the sewer tap location to the house? The sewer line is a 3" line and it requires a 1/4" per foot pitch all the way from the house to the municipal sewer. let us consider a typical 75' setback from the front of your property line to the structure. Now add another 5ft for the width of the utility easement from the municipal sewer line to your property line so the house sewer would then be 80' long, allowing that it is run in a straight line taking the most direct route, which is rare, but for illustration we will use it. The house sewer is 80ft long so with a 1/4"/ft pitch that is 80 x 0.25 = 20". You then need to know the location where the proposed watercloset will be set. The closet bend (elbow) under the watercloset requires 12" and you must have a 1/4"/ft pitch from the WC to the house sewer entry point. Hypothetically let us say that will be 20' so the pitch would be 20' x 0.25" = 5" plus 12" for the closet bend for a total of 17". You then add the pitch for the house sewer and the DWV run to the watercloset and get a total of 37". Now for illustration let us assume you want the basement to be 6' below grade and the terraine is flat. The floor would then be 72" below grade and the sewer and drain line must run 37" below the finished floor, so the municipal sewer line would have to be a minimum of 109" (9ft) below grade. Generally the sewer lines run between 3 & 10ft deep depending upon whether you are on the upstream or downstream end of the sewer run. In most instances when building a house with a basement the sewer line will enter through the basement wall at some point above the finished floor. If that is the case here, they could still intall a bathroom in the basement but it would require installing an effluent lift pump system. The advantage is that it could be placed wherever they want it, but it requires two vents. The pump housing is required to have a dedicated vent that cannot be attached to any other vent line in the house, and that vent must terminate through the roof. The fixtures must be vented in the conventional manner as defined by code....See MoreBasement plumbing advice needed
Comments (1)Bust up the concrete and install the required drain lines....See MoreIdentifying Basement Plumbing Rough In
Comments (2)This is what I see. 1 - It might be a 2" connection for a sink drain or shower drain, or a drain and a vent. A toilet would require a 3" drain fitting and a 1.5" or 2" vent. 2 - Probably a 2" floor drain, with an air admittance valve for a vent. 3 - 3" drain pipe from bath above. Unusual because it does not have a cleanout in the pipe. How would you snake out a clog? It may be just a vent pipe, but that would not require a 3" pipe. 4 - 3" drain from two toilets above. May be the main plumbing stack. 5 - 3" drain pipe that appears to also serve as a water softener drain (can't really see for sure). Sump pump next to it. I would pull off the caps shown in picture 1 and try to figure out where they go. Then pour some water down them and see whether they drain. Look for your main water shutoff valve inside the house and try to determine if the main sewer pipe also comes in under that wall. Installing both (water in and sewer out) along the same path is fairly common. Then look at the other three 3" stacks and try to figure out how they might connect to the main pipe. That may give you an idea of what is under the slab and where you could connect new drains. Bruce...See MoreHelp identifying basement rough in pipes
Comments (13)Check old plumbing posts from lazypup; he's gone now but he knew plumbing inside and out and taught it well. "All drains need a vent" is not a true statement, toilets are self-venting, they don't need a separate vent. A 4" floor drain would also be self-venting. Self-venting occurs because the inside pipe diameter is large enough that waste can flow downhill (it's all slower gravity flow, not high-volume pumping) with enough room above the liquid level for venting to take place. Self-venting is also applied to sink drains. For example, at 1/4" slope per foot, a 1-1/2" drain line has a maximum trap arm length (max length before venting is required) of 6 feet. For 2" drain lines this length becomes self-venting up to 8 feet. Regarding those 3 pipes you have in the wall, it is not against code to install extra drain/vent lines, which is what you probably have, but it is not needed....See MoreJ Lee
last year- PRO
GN Builders L.L.C
last yearMake sure they ran a vent for the ejector pump and stubbed it out between the basement ceiling and capped it in the attic so all you have to do is make a connection in the basement and through the roof.
Other than that you can take a ruler and approximately layout a bathroom use strips of cardboard as wall plates to see if everything pretty much has the right place... as an example, if you plan an inline bathroom you need a toilet stub-out to be 12" from the back wall and min 15" from the side wall or any fixture... if there is a wall I like to do 18" from the wall to give more room and if your walls fall within that dimension near the pipe when doing a layout you don't have to break the slab for the toilet, next if the vanity you using is a 36"W - 21" deep you want that pipe to be in that vicinity I marked them in red and that stub-out is usualy a 1- 1/2" pipe, do the same for the shower size you plan to have and same thing, that stub-out is usually 2" pipe, if you plan to have a tub that would be a 1- 1/2" size pipe.
This is an example just to give you an idea to make sure pipe locations will work if you have an inline layout.
Good luck
worthy
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