Rikerk - I have not installed as yet. Our project got delayed and now I have been waiting for the drywaller to come finish the ceiling. I don't want to install the new island and rangetop until the ceiling is done. Anyway, we did remove the rangetop from the shipping carton this past weekend and have put it on the base cabinet to try to determine how we will mount it (this is sitting in the livingroom so not actually in place). FYI, we are also doing an island mount. I am using the dimensions listed on the "Specification" sheet from the Capital website but will verify tonight when I get home. There is a lip that is 7/8" high with a 1/2" indentation on the sides. On the sides the indentation does not come all the way from the back to the front since the faceplate is the full width (in my case 36") across the front. This faceplate is 3-1/4" deep (including the bullnose). The indentation on the back is also 7/8" high but is only 3/8" deep. This indentation allows the rangetop to sit on the counter. I am going to have the granite people come and look at this before I finalize how I am installing as I want them to approve of the weight on the counter. Under this install method, I will not build a support platform. Due to the location of the gas inlet, this is preferred as I will not have to cut some of the corner cabinet support as the inlet is very close to the sides and back of the unit. Regardless if it can be supported this way, I have concerns in that the rangetop will be 7/8" above the 36" counter top and the cooking grates are another 7/8" higher. So the actual cooking surface is 37-3/4" off the floor and this seems a little high for my wife. You can see photos of actual rangetops installed in the posting titled "Capital Culinarian owners, post reviews, photos, of your new range!" Trevor posted a rangetop on 1/6/11 that has been mounted on the counter, picture 1 and 3 show the amount the top sits above the counter fairly well. He also posted two pictures on 1/10/11 (Bistro is on the vent hood) that gives a good idea also of the mount on the counter. The 2nd picture shows something I will have as well in that if you look just below the drip pan, you can see a gap between the rangetop and the base cabinet. If I do this install, I will fill with a matching piece of cabinet material or molding. If I go the route of a support platform (the platform will rest on the cabinet supports that run the sides of the inside of the cabinet) the rangetop can be lower (as the rangetop has a second indent even further on the bottom), but still not flush as the base cabinet would need to be significantly modified. So the rangetop would have a slight gap from the counter (similar to pictures of ranges) and would sit approximately 1/4" (not the grates but the stainless top) above the counter or 37-1/8" off the floor to the top of the grates. The disadvantage is the gap (spills could seep through and not as finished looking) on the sides and I would need to cut into the left side cabinet support for the gas inlet as the platform will rest on the cabinet supports and thus I have no clearance for the flexible gas line to connect to the inlet. As I started out, I still do not know what way I am going, but will have a better idea next week. Unfortunately I do not have pictures but may try to post what it looks like sitting on the cabinet this weekend to give you a visual to go along with my explanations.

If it's a service, they've been to my house... roofer, plumber, electrician, architect, designers, general contractors, cabinet makers, granite installers, sheet rockers, texture person, window installers, painters, more painters, arborist, landscape architect, glass installer, appliance repair people (fridge, and washing machine), concrete repair people, carpet installers, tile layers (like 10 of them!!) fence installers... sigh. Worst year of my life! Biggest remodel we've ever done... shudder. Now I need a pharmacist, wine salesman and therapist to help me recover... ;)

Here is how I would expect a Pro cabinet finisher to spray paint kitchen cabinets. A brush painted amateur job would differ slightly in that you wouldn't hang the doors to paint. You'd place them on a work table or easel instead. It's time intensive work, and should take 7-14 days to accomplish completely and cost between 5--9K depending on kitchen size and amount of detail in cabinets. Remove doors and drawer fronts. Number on an edge to locate their home easily. Remove hinges and hardware. Clean with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) Rinse (required) and let dry. Scrape any loose finish. Fill any damaged spots or hardware holes that won't be reused. Fill oak grain with PorePac if you want a smooth finish then sand. Repeat. (Or just buy new cabinets. The labor to donthst is insane.) Sand fill smooth. Scuff sand the rest. Tack off dust. Hang in dust free paint booth with wires through hardware points. Tack off dust again. Spray with alkyd based primer like BIN. Scuff sand again. Tack off dust. Spray with second coat of primer. Spray with first finish coat of post catalyzed conversion varnish. Amateurs can use an oil modified waterborne enamel like Cabinet Coat. Spray with second coat. If glazing is to occur, that is next. Add more molding or decorative details to boxes, filling nail holes and sanding smooth. Repeat prep process with face frames and exposed cabinet sides using plastic to create a spray booth on site. If interiors are to be done, they are done before face frames and sides. Interiors are difficult, and add both time and expense to the job. Allow everything to fully cure. Clean hinges and hardware and clear coat if you're keeping the old hardware. Install new (or old) hinges and hardware. Re-install doors and drawers and adjust for proper clearances. If you are receiving a job without this amount of effort, or these professional products, then you are not receiving a quality professional job.

I agree with Bry and most of the pros on here. Here’s my thoughts. BM Aura is NOT a cabinet-grade paint. This is just a fact. It’s a fully water-based, thin paint. It’s meant for drywall. Our company does over a mil a year, and I study the chemical science behind this stuff and study these products 24-7. I would suggest alternatives to a client, and if they insisted on BM Aura I’d literally walk away from the job rather than use this product because the danger of taking that job would be very high (the product won’t last, will scratch easily, and client will be unhappy). BM Advance is an ok product, but the long cure time and lack of durability compared to other similarly priced products makes it not worth it, IMO. TL/DR = There’s better options but this is still decent. Way better than BM Aura. The BEST “reasonably priced and readily available” product for cabinets is SW Emerald Urethane Enamel. It’s much better than the BM Advance in terms of A) durability and abrasion resistance, B) cure/dry time, C) chemical and mar resistance. Some prefer the look of either but they both look great but SW Emerald Urethane is way more durable long term and IMO at least I love the fact Emerald Urethane is brighter and dries harder. It looks a lot better to me. Advance looks/feels kinda soft and subdued. https://youtu.be/-TVrtJwLqgA Milesi, Fine Paints of Europe, and Renner have the “best overall” products but they’re way more expensive and harder to purchase. Milesi and Renner especially, often need to be shipped in. FPE is usually in our local stores. They’re all expensive though. Milesi also requires a 2-step process which is more complicated, so we need our project manager to oversee it. Milesi comes out super smooth and glassy, FPE Hollandlac comes out in a brilliant lacquer finish which some people want. My general thoughts, weighing all the pros and cons, is to either go with Emerald Urethane, OR, pick one of the very expensive European brands that meets your exact desire in a paint and go with them. But don’t do BM Aura on cabinets. Seriously. Don’t do that. That’s Magoo