People frequently say they are working with Pros when they are DIYing and are not. Because of the deserved heat level associated with not hiring a pro when they needed to. An electrical engineer, or a roofer is not a structural construction specialist, despite engineers thinking they know enough to remuddle the world. And then, they go on to describe situations that no construction Pro would ever allow to happen. Which betrays their incompetency to do the job. Or the total incompetency of the supposed pro involved. An architect would have handled the aesthetic and structural questions raised by the thought of the project. Trusses are not stick framed rafters, and cannot be thought of as stick framing. It’s an engineered whole system that must be linked together to work together for proper support. Those “drywall supports” linking the bottom chords are structural in a truss system that is meant to be covered with drywall. They lend required lateral bracing to increase rigidity to the support system. Trusses meant to be exposed have to be originally designed to have the strength and rigidity to be an exposed structure. There is no such thing as “just” removing the drywall and braces and having that be a viable structure long term. And that is just one of the telltales that indicate no professional involvement. Or, incompetent professional involvement.

Ok... so for sure this is a case of the vanity being photographed without plumbing. That said, I think it could have been done far better than it was. It should have been planned for though, and it wouldn't be a "standard vanity install" Yes, potentially the supply could be made mostly invisible by using brass plated copper supply lines that would be semi-rigid and formed into a Y shape directly behind the tail pipe. If the tail pipe is nickel then use chrome plated supply lines. An alternative would be braided SS lines and use a zip tie or similar at the top (hidden by sink) and below in the box in order to maintain a Y shape. There would be a (pair) of supply lines going straight up - but they would be really only visible from the side. and even then would be very neat. There should be no visible white PVC - but should have a chrome extension (or brass or nickel or whatever color that tailpipe is) to get the tailpipe below the level of the box before transitioning to PVC. All of this requires some pre-planning, attention to detail, a few slightly more premium plumbing parts, and someone other than Cletus doing the finish plumbing. I've seen that same sort of nonsense done with floating vanities: A high end vanity with exposed plumbing and the plumber did it with red & blue pex supply and white PVC drain line. This is also why you need to know the finish fixtures and such BEFORE rough-in is done.

Cute desk space, I love the yellow and white, and the flowers. I'd hide only the pipe that's on the desk itself -- construct a long, narrow 3-sided box, paint it white or yellow, and stand it on edge to conceal the pipe. Keep the niche for the flowers. Use the box for sticky notes.

I'd ask the electrician who ran the wire to begin with. My first suggestion would be to run wire in a more direct route to the plug, which, if the cabinet is against a wall, would be through the wall studs. Another option may simply be installing a junction box. It really depends on what the electrical code is in your area and an electrician would/should be the expert on that.