The fertilizer you have is organic, and would probably be best suited for the ground where it could break down properly. Container fertilization when using a soilless mix is a bit different ballgame. If you use a liquid or water soluble chemical fertilizer the nutrients will be available immediately to the plant. Since your plants are very small they don't need very much fertilizer at all anyway. You can add a little fertilizer to the mix at the start if you want, but it's really not necessary. If they were my plants I would probably mix a "little" Controlled Release Fertilizer (like MG Shake and Feed, which has all the nutrients,) to the mix at the beginning. Then, once the plants get establisked, I would give gentle weekly feedings of water soluble ammonium sulfate 21-0-0. Again, I suggest reading up on blueberry fertilization until you feel more comfortable with it. I can definitely relate to it being overwhelming at the beginning, but you will figure it out eventually. Your mix sounds good, now all you have to do is figure out the fertilizer part. It wouldn't hurt to just pot them up now, and add the fertilizer a little later. Where are you located? No fertilizer after August because the plants need to begin to go dormant rather than force new growth.

"It looks like you switched to the Dyna grow 9-3-6 last year. Do you still use CRF in your soil mix if you are still using this fert?" Actually, I rarely use the CRFs at all. I like the near complete control the soluble fertilizers give me in containers. I'm pretty diligent about fertilizer applications, so I really don't need the CRFs to cover the 'in case I forget' base, or for any minor elements they might supply. I included them in the soil recipes to make it easier for others. As long as you're faithful to your nutrient supplementation program, you can easily do w.o them. If you think you'll be lax at times, I'd include them. 109 ppm alkalinity is nothing to be overly concerned about with fast container soils. It would be interesting to learn how the Ca and Mg levels are though. Alkalinity is related to pH because alkalinity (practically speaking and for our applications) determines your water's resistance to pH changes. If you have water 'A' at a pH of 9.0 with an alkalinity of 75 mg/L CaCO3, and water 'B', with a pH of 8.0 (a full point lower to begin with) and alkalinity of 300 mg/L CaCO3, it will take about 4 times as much 35% H2SO4 (sulfuric acid) to bring the water with the lower pH down to That aside - your water is better than mine, so I really doubt you'll have Fe/Mn issues if you're using either the 9-3-6 or MG. I will say though, that bark/peat soils have a potentially high Fe:Mn ratio, so applying Fe w/o Mn could easily create a deficiency of Mn. If I were in your shoes, I would do nothing until I actually saw evidence of an Fe deficiency. Then, I would acidify. Oh - the other likely cause of an Fe deficiency is too much P, which combines with the Fe to form an insoluble precipitate, so avoid the high P fertilizers - they are useless unless you are using them to supply the exact amount of P needed while intentionally (severely) limiting N. I used this strategy last year: I fertilized with regular dosages of 9-3-6 until the plants were well established. I then cut way back on the dosage and added ProTeKt to the solution. I rather like to envision that I used the added K (and got the benefit of the added silicon) to change the fertilizer ratio to 3:1:3 from a 3:1:2. This allowed me to reduce the dosage of N (reducing vegetative growth) while still having adequate P and K. Take care. Al

There's two meanings of "organic" being intermingled and confusing the issues, I think, harmonyp. Whether or not something is grown "organically" (a cultural movement based on sometimes questionable premises, in this ecologist's opinion) has nothing to do with whether or not it is an organic form of nitrogen (i.e., nitrogen as part of a large organic molecule that breaks apart slowly into plant-usable forms of nitrogen). Nitrate and ammonium, which are inorganic, ionic compounds, are considered the plant-usable forms of nitrogen, although this view is being modified as more and more evidence piles up for plants sometimes using organic forms of nitrogen directly. As opposed to nitrogen in large organic molecules, the inorganic forms of nitrogen, provided en masse by synthetic/manufactured fertilizers, are highly mobile in the environment. If they aren't taken up immediately by the plant, they readily move into waterways or the atmosphere where the excess becomes a problem. So, probability of over-application is the main issue, first-order, not the form of nitrogen. Don't use excessive amounts of synthetic fertilizers and it's not a problem. Over-application of synthetic fertilizer by rose gardeners would be less than a pittance, anyway; it's large-scale use of excessive amounts of synthetics in big agriculture that is of concern (plus concomitant doubling of "in-play" nitrogen in ecosystems due to the need to feed exponentially-growing human populations, but THAT problem is second-order and beyond...). My preference for alfalfa lies in it being an organic molecule form that makes nitrogen slowly available over a long period of time, having other benefits for the soil, and posing less potential for application of excessive amounts. It is cheap, easy to obtain and use, and my roses look fine to me. I am too lazy and busy to keep track of multiple applications and timing required for synthetic fertilizers over the growing season. So, win-win on a number of fronts; who could complain? As a consultant in restoration ecology, I'm actually a big fan of Roundup. It's an important tool-of-the-trade, though usually considered only after non-chemical means are considered and rejected.

I just spent the entire morning researching fertilizing pecan trees-have pages of stuff... pecans have one year "on and one year "off" "on year"  fertilize every two months (Feb/March especially important) (total of 2-4 lbs yr but something else said that was per inch of trunk width - so I need to call university extension) "off year"  do not fertilize on off year=creates too many nuts the tree canÂt fill with meat The April application is made for general maintenance of the treeÂs nutrition. OSU extension online literature said: February  March best time for fruit and pecan trees, or at least 3-4 weeks before bud break. extension: a 10-10-10 fertilizer 2-4 lbs per pecan tree per year, take leaf sample in July once every 5 yrs for analysis; 2-4 foliar sprayings of zinc 10-20 days apart during first half of growing season may be required In split application the last application can be made April following fruit set when last danger of frost has past. (applicable Peach & fruit trees too) Those are actual quotes off of what I read this morning. Duckboy has a very valuable note: because fertilizer in the soil, if not used up by plants, does not go anywhere. It will be there forever. There are parts of the US where farms lay empty because the well water is permanently poisoned from years of over-fertilizing crops. And with most plants too much fertilizer in the soil will prevent growth. I don't know where duckboy is from but if there is a feedlot or ag university nearby where they raise confined cattle or farm animals - large quantities of dried manure is usually free by the truckload nitrogen and zinc is very important to pecans, they use a lot of it