Spanky67- I saw the same Finehomebuilding article. I couldn't find the switch they mentioned in the article locally so I went with the motion detector version. I might upgrade to the toggle switch someday if I ever get around to ordering it online ($30?), but for now the fan works great and I don't have to remember to go down and see if someone left it on which was my main pet peeve. It does go on every time someone enters the room, which can be a pain if you are just replacing towels or to empty trashcan. The toggle like yours (wired just to fan) would allow me to leave the switch off, change out the towels, trash and no fan running for extra time. Teaching the kids to turn on both switches is a little trickier (one for fan, one for lights) turn both off (fan still runs) turn on only lights (no fan continues to run). I know I could wire both fan and light onto one switch and use a blank over the other faceplate but then I am back to the same problem of the fan running too long if I only needed to drop off some TP, soap, etc. This is a ½ bath so no moisture to worry about. In the meantime this works out 90% of the time just the way I need it to. When we redo the kids & master bath upstairs I will start this mental dance of the electric switch plates/ fan/ vent/ moisture/ odor/ how many buttons to turn on/ off and not think about it again Âall over again. LOL Our fan is a Nutone 1.0 sones much quieter then any of the older bath vents we have upstairs which you can hear running from across the hall when the door is closed. The 1.0 is a very soft white noise you hear while in the room but cannot hear it running at all from out side the room when door is closed and can barely hear it outside the room when door is open unless standing close to doorway. I hope this helps. I know how hard it is to get an idea about these things until they are already installed and itÂs too late. I donÂt think you can go wrong with a fan 1.0 or less but definitely not more than 1.0 you wonÂt be happy.

Solars are very unpredictable for the most part. I would check Amazon and read reviews. I just went through this but i already have hardwire and just wanted the motion activated feature so that was easy. I just have a single flood (CFL) and it is fine for entry but not especially bright as it takes a minute to warm up but i did not want to be 'flooded' with light...just needed entry, dog walking etc. and still plenty to get things in and out of the car. My solar on the back deck gets full sun and still had trouble and now no longer works after about one year. I've stopped looking at those but maybe something better is out there now. And disregard reviews right out of the box. Pay attention to those that have had the product for some time. I think the third one you posted needs hardwire.

We just bought a new house filled with horrendous builder grade lighting from the 80s. First thing we are switching out is the front door wall lights (2 flanking the door). We would like to be energy efficient and not have them on all the time. The front door is under a deep overhang so not sure a dusk to dawn photo cell will work. Currently they are motion sensor lights, however doesn't seem to many of those on the market. And the reviews on the motion sensor add on eyes are pretty iffy. Anyone have experience adding the motion sensor to a regular outdoor light? Recommendations on brands? Thank you!

Sure ... an electrician can do it. But probably not without punching holes in the wall and running new cable. Below is how your wiring is PROBABLY set up (but there are multiple ways it could be set up). Power from the switch goes to the front door light and then travels on to the other two lights. What you'd need is on the right in the diagram below. EITHER the blue line which is a new cable from the switch to the front door light (so that both the constant power and the switched power is available at the door light box). OR the pink line that carries the switched power to the 2nd and third light. Which line is easier to run depends on your specific situation. As I said, there are other ways that this could currently be wired and it is possible that you already have something equivalent to the pink line setup already and no new cables need to be run, but I doubt it. Opening up the switch box (with the power off) and investigating what wires are there could confirm the situation.