A total gut would be very expensive. Like one of the above posters said, many people do it and go broke. Maybe you could have someone local look at it and determine if there are things you can do to save costs. Is the plaster in half way decent shape? Can it be repaired? There are lots of people that do that and it's not overly expensive, at least not from what I've seen. Also, an experienced electrician can rewire the house without making holes everywhere and save some money. The plumbing is probably going to be expensive to update, but adding a bath and probably updating the kitchen is well worth it, especially in a house that size. I have no idea what you are paying for it but I am in sosuthern New England and $100,000 for rehab is pretty realistic, but if there are structural repairs to be done, you can probably at least another $50,000 depending on how much needs to be done. Someone I know just spent about close to $35,000 in repairs just to fix powderpost beetle damage on the first level of her house. That was treatment and fixing the floors and some of the sills. They were looking at about $160,000 in total repairs of a house that was probably similar to yours but here in CT and I believe they were looking to do some of the work themselves. Those figures I'm sure would be different in NY but you get the idea. It can be spendy. If the house is done close to period and the trim and other architectural features saved, the house will probably look great when you're done. Get estimates from local licensed insured tradespeople and see where you end up. Don't forget, there is always the "I didn't expect it " cost, like the totally rotten sills or whatever you have to keep in mind too. It's some Murphy's Law thing that it always happens. A remodeled old house is great though and can be very beautiful. Either way, good luck whatever you decide.

Also look at this thread: What was Your Best Bathroom Remodeling Decision? And a more recent thread: What was Your Best/Worst Remodeling Decision? some things I thought of over the last few days: The bathroom is more complected to build than a kitchen in my option, because of the techniques involved with installing the elements. Of course layout and flow are considerations just like a kitchen. But in a bathroom there is the toilet and shower that can get difficult. If these two features have problems, you have problems. You are constantly managing water in a variety of forms, liquid and vapor, but hopefully not ice, lol. As you probably are well aware form follows function. Decide what you need to have the bathroom accomplish. I see that you have a walk in closet. Some people do put them in the bathrooms. I don't know how that works. There are several articles in the Houzz side of this site that are written on closets. They are informative and inspirational. I would try to have a W/D somewhere close to this area of the house. There is no reason you can't have 2 sets, one near your bedroom and one in the basement, or were ever. Over on the Laundry forum there is a lovely example Linus from Sweden posted on their laundry "rooms". Here is a link for fun: Showing My Laundry Room in Sweden 1) where are you putting exhaust fan/s? Besure to have enough gap under the door for "makeup air" so the fan can work effectively. You'll need to calculate how much ducting you'll have because that will impact what CFM fan you'll use. I call Fantech and they helped me figure mine out. They are reportedly good. There are other companies too. 2) Electrical outlets. I have one by my toilet at about 12" off the ground for an advanced toilet seat which, if you have a choice, is a must. Also electrical outlets within the vanity to accommodate hairdryers, etc. I have an outlet in my medicine cabinet too. I also have one in my small laundry surround so I can use an iron with the small pullout ironing board I have. 3) Floor warming wires, for the winter. You will love it. It only goes in open areas. Be sure to run it under the toe kick so you don't get cold toes. It does not go under the tub, unless they've changed specs. It is to be safely margined away from the wax ring of the toilet rough-in. Get the 240v, and lay an extra thermostatic probe under the tile, in case one goes bad, you'll have a spare. It just gets wrapped up and tucked in the box, ready and waiting for the first to fail. 4) If you are tiling your shower I would recommend porcelain over marble or other stone. The new porcelains are gorgeous and do not absorb moisture. Natural stone will take more upkeep. I used epoxy grout in my bathroom. It is not porous. Others have used cementous grout without problems. I would not use HD standard Custom Blend line for anything. People have had quality control issues, with color, etc. Laticrete is a great brand. There is Bostik that is very good. Mapei is good to I believe. If you have any detailed tiling questions, they can be answered by some on this forum, but it seems those members are not frequently posting any longer. They stop in from time to time. Go to the John Bridge Forum, for tile help professional scope. Be sure to know how a shower is put together from the studs out. You will need to know this! This is the biggest issue I have noticed on GW. People are always posting about dysfunctional showers and the poor tilers that do them. You need to do this homework before you hire it done or your GC hires it. Do not let work continue that is not to code or not to what you know to be standard work in the tile industry. There are standards and they need to be followed. You don't want to have to tear out a shower because of piss poor workmanship. 5) Benjaman Moore Aura Bath and Spa is a very nice paint. I've really liked the matte, velvety finish. 6) Plan your vanity to do what you want it to do. I keep my underware in mine. with my W/D being in the same room it made sense. DH gets his put in there too. Here is a link to my recent reveal that is long in coming, as the bathroom has been done for 1.5 years. My West Bathroom Reveal from Project in 2013-2014

Your kitchen is gorgeous! I have those same cabinets. Do you like your white countertops? I HATE mine. That's what I plan on doing for my upgrade when it happens. I'd upgrade the floor to something maybe either solid colored linoleum or a really snazzy ceramic tile, then redo the countertops to match, and then upgrade the pulls, new wall paint, and voila, snazzy new kitchen. I would not bow to current trends for painted cabinets and monochrome, heavens that's just ONE way to decorate, you have so many other options too! What colors do you like? Just as a side note, we had almost that exact flooring in our kitchen and when we had to redo the entryway due to a washer flood, we redid it all and it really made a ton of difference. We went with a high end fake granite tile kind of look for the flooring. So one piece of advice I can give you is lose the checkerboard. You will be so happy to get rid of all those busy lines competing with the grain in the wood! Even a colored checkerboard would be better than the all-one-color graph-paper vibe of that floor, particularly writ large. I didn't realize how much of an effect my busy floor was having on my life until I was forced to redo it. Don't know why, but I'm getting a "blue" vibe for one of your kitchen colors. I guess because blue would look so fab with those oak cabinets and would be a whole other direction. But there are other ways to go too. With my floor tile I'm going in a peach/grey/beige color scheme, with new grey countertops.

And this, folks, is a true farmhouse. As the farmer had good years and/ or more children, he added more floor space. No architect, designer, or person with taste ever darkened the doorstep. No building department was ever called or passed the work. My grandma’s new washer and dryer were beside the kitchen table—and she was so happy she didn’t have to go outside to the summer kitchen to boil wash water on the coal stove and pour it into the wringer washer. Another corner of the kitchen was framed out for the new bathroom. Indoor plumbing!? My grandfather thought the world had gone crazy! What was wrong with using an outhouse? Wallpaper came from the hardware store and had a pattern of ivy leaves. I would urge you to live in your house for 6-12 months to discover the good points as well as the bad. Find out why something was done before you rip out anything. Plan and job cost each project you think you want. Don’t rip off siding without an exploratory discovery of what lies underneath. The original siding could hide there or there could be holes and voids that will require custom milled siding to fill in the blanks. Adopt an electrician and a plumber because it will be cheaper than hiring them! Restore, restore, restore. Once you dispose of historic features, you have ruined the house.