That tile is beautiful - and quite costly. Just google Arts & Crafts tile. Better yet, google Arts & Crafts bathrooms to get some inspiration. If you want to wallpaper check out Bradbury for some beautiful authentic Craftsman papers Bradbury Wallpapers The thing that must be changed is that countertop and that would be a relatively easy fix. There is no picture of the shower - can you disguise it somewhat with a curtain to minimize that awful cultured marble.

BeverlyFLADeziner Peter, some of the advice you receive is not worth anything. ------------- No need for insults. Don't take my word for it. Feel free to look at all the threads that say, I painted my walls gray or purchased a gray sectional or installed gray carpet, what is wrong with my room? The problem is almost always because the gray is fighting with oak floors or tan walls or warm whites. Yes, gray and tans can work together but it takes decorating skill. If you are a decorating novice, make your life easier. Stick with the same color tones. On my screen the sofas show as dark brown. If they are in fact black, a warm dark wall would still help balance and work with the predominant tones in the room.

@ beesneeds...sadly the 'tile install' has NOTHING to do with wall structure. Sigh...I know. A 'tiling professional' is a specialized subcontractor (and is expensive...which is why MANY general contractors do NOT use them...they loose money because they have to pay TOP DOLLAR for a tile pro...just sayin'). A tile setter (in a high-end company) comes in when the walls have been dealt with. The tile setter will add the water proofing to walls and shower pans, etc. S/he will install the crack prevention membranes like Ditra or Schlutter. They then spread their thin-set and start setting their tile. Before they drop in a single tile they would have done an hour or so of measuring and calculating to ensure the tiles are centred properly and that corners do not have 'slivers' and everything else that goes into making tiles look 'good'. They will also sort their tiles (again...can be an hour worth of work all total) and work from groups that are in the same size range, etc. All of this 'precision' costs a contractor MONEY. That means a contractor will often 'cheap out' and use one of their 'guys' (who will rip out walls, pound nails, run to the coffee shop for lunch...etc) to do the tile work. The General Contractor (who is probably not the tile setter pro) is responsible for the stud work and the cement board and the taping and the mudding of said board. To fur out walls and to make them plumb and square can take a day worth of work...and that can be fiddly. Remember: time is money to these guys. The faster they get the work done, the more money they make. If they have to lose a day and a half (1 day for the walls + 4 hours for a tile setter to do all the sorting and the math) the GC will lose close to $1000. And that is pure profit. The tile pro comes in and takes over when the walls are up (studs covered) and then does the work required to get tiles to work as a water proof surface. If the GC is also the 'tiler' (not trained in tile work), you get issues like this. We see this ALL the time.

You are limited by what you buy. Pavers for a driveway need to be thicker than patio pavers to withstand the weight of vehicles. True Interlocking Pavers can only fit together one way. Other pavers allow more diversity but there are still limitations. For example, the basic brick shape can be laid in these PATTERNS. More unusual patterns require more complex shapes like THIS (there are only 3 basic shapes used—squares and truncated triangles), or the use of contrasting colors to produce patterns. However, the more ARTFUL the paver arrangement the more you will need an artisan to do the work.