I second Classic Granite in Jessup. We have a ten foot island and did not want a seam. They were the only fabricator our kitchen designer could find who would guarantee that they could install or granite without a seam. Based on that, we went with them even though we don't live in the Baltimore area and are glad we did as the installation was perfect.

This is the kitchen now with just natural light. (this may look bad but it's an improvement from when we purchased it!). The almond appliances are fairly new (within last couple of years) so they won't be replaced anytime soon and I just have to work with them. The walls are SW Contented. This week I'm going to remove the apron bit above the sink and take down that shelf and move the outlet closer to the coffeemaker. I had dreams of blowing out the walls and opening up this floor and really turning it into a cool, MCM kitchen but that just wouldn't make sense at all for resell in this area. Plus, we couldn't afford to do that for awhile!

Hopefully that is an impact crack and not a problem with the subfloor. Removing and replacing the tile is the way to make it look "perfect". So long as the edges aren't dangerous, cracked tiles are welcome to be left in place (until they become dangerous). The grout on that tile also needs repair. I would check the entire floor to ensure you are not seeing the beginning of a failing tile floor. Failing tile can be seen with ++ cracked grout or multiple tiles that are looking stressed (fine cracks in the body of the tile that have yet to crack all the way through like the tile you show in your photos). A quick inspection of the entire floor will tell you whether or not a repair is even worth it. A tile floor that is in the beginning stages of failure is not worth repairing. I'm hoping Joseph will pop by to offer any suggestions for "filler" that might be used to correct the tile without removing/replacing. I'm a wood/cork flooring pro...which means tiles and stone are not my strong point.

Because it seemed important to know how bad the situation is, I removed the tiles and mudboard in the problem area. Underneath is just the sheathing. You can see that most of the wood is still in tact, but it's definitely rotted in the corner by the tub. That spot is still very wet, smells earthy, and I can dig into it with my finger. In a 4" x 4" area, I could make a little 1/2 inch hole easily. Now I'm wondering if the best solution might be to: 1) wait for wood sheathing to dry; 2) put down some kind of underlayer or mortar, and then 3) just put on some of that Flex Seal - as a temporary solution. Or, should I put down some kind of PVC board, or something like that over the sheathing - and then put mortar on that - just in case there's reason to worry about the sheathing in that corner giving in. and the PVC board would keep us from falling through the ceiling (until we do the full renovation)! Thanks everyone for your help!