I decided to go with the Rheem system because it was less expensive and I got 18 months free financing. I got the maintainence contract to service/clean the system twice a year for $170. I was using fuel oil at the rate of 125 gallons a month. This is based on my last two months usage (11/18/11 to 1/18/12). I did some research and for my area the average house uses around 105-110 gallons /month for the 2010 heating season from Oct to March. Our house is larger than average at 4500 sf. So my fuel oil consumption appears to be about right. At $3.77 / gallon for fuel I was spending $470/month to heat this house. We are now all electric. Our first electric bill (1/18/2012 to 2/18/2012) went up $70.00. The temperature during that time dropped down to the mid 20's. I would say the average temp was typically in the 30's. The Rheem unit had no problem keeping the house at 68-70 degrees during that time. It doesn't provide the blast hot heat from the register like fuel oil. I knew it wouldn't before I replaced anything. The heat is more even throughout the house. So at $2400 savings per heating season I will have paid for the new system in less than 5 years. And I will tell you I do not miss the $500 fuel oil bill every month. Also note that had I spent the extra $2000 for the "more efficient system" and let's say it is twice as efficient, (it's not but say electric went up $35/mo for 6 mo instead of $70/mo) It would take 10-12 years to recoup the additional money with the additional efficiency. I think there is a point of diminishing return with efficiency. Especially with the new cutting edge systems.

I had the same furnace/a-c installed this spring (furnace was an 09). Your price is fantastic. I got the filter and had some ductwork revision for over a thousand more (after rebates, no humidifier and not your model thermostat). I think labor rates are higher here in the Philadelphia, PA area. The furnace can't be beat for comfort, as compared to your old single stage unit. It is important that a heat calc be performed, both for heating and cooling. Also, SEER will depend on which coil is matched to the a-c/furnace. Depending on your particular climate (temperature vs. humidity), a coil that is designed to deliver a higher SEER (larger), may not be optimum for humidity removal. Another word on heating: The Mod gives 13 stages of heat at 5% intervals. Carrier's MVC model has 3 stages and is not a true modulating unit. York's model has 65 stages @ 1% intervals. When modulating, how long does the unit stay in stage 23 before ramping up to stage 24? Is a change in firing rate of 1% really meaningful? The most important factor is your confidence that the contractor will deliver a first class installation. V

I need to replace a 35 years old AC split system and I know very little about all this . I live in the HOT valley of Los Angeles and I need some help about deciding on a system . Thanks to everyone in advance. I never maintained the system I had for the last 15 years and it worked fine (lennox with whirlpool furnace)but I have read horrifying stories about new systems breaking right away... This is what I have been offered: RHEEM 80% 75,000 BTUâÂÂS furnace (MODEL #RGPS07NAMGR), (1) ADP 3.5 ton 410A coil, and (1) 3.5 ton 13 SEER 410A single stage RHEEM condensing unit (MODEL #13AJN42AO1). Bryant 13 Seer Furnace 310JAV042090 CONDENSER 113ANA04200 COIL C48A175C166 ALSO AMERICAN STANDARD dealer has offered 3.5 ton R 410 A CONDENSER, FURNACE and 4 ton MICROBAN A/C COIL. ALL ARE JUST UNDER $4000.00 hARD TO CHOOSE . I AM SINGLE WITH AN Alzheimer MOM...NEED SOMETHING DEPENDABLE. I HAVE READ LOTS OF PEOPLE , LIKE ME, HAD A 35 YEARS OLD SYSTEM WHICH WORKED WITH NO PROBLEM AND SUDDENLY THEY BUY A NEW SYSTEM AND IT BECOMES A NIGHTMARE. SO THANKS FOR THE HELP. IHAVE READ GOOD REVIEWS ON BRANT EVOLUTION BUT I CANNOT AFFORD A HIGH EFFICIENCY SYSTEM SO IS THEIR BASIC SYSTEM RELIABLE? AND RHEEM?

jimcolonial is correct. the furnace not shutting off doesn't usually require a new furnace. If the tech is any good he should be able to narrow it down fairly quickly. There are a coulpe of things that control your furnace. One is your t-stat. It is just a switch. If you diconnect a wire from the t-stat and the furnace still runs that eliminates that part. Go to the control at the boiler that it's hooked up to and take the t-stat wire off and if the boiler shuts down you could possibly have a short in you t-stat wire. If it still doesn't shut down chances are it's in your primary control. It sounds like a lot but it is pretty simple and doesn't take very long.