Would you BUY this BEAUTIFUL house.... that has NO HOT WATER?
Elizabeth Williams
last year
YES, I'D BUY! I don't mind/enjoy cold showers, that's a minor inconvenience for me!!
HECK NO! I would never live someplace without hot showers!!
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Rehabit
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Advice-What Would You Do? Boiler & Indirect Hot Water
Comments (35)The set up is working great and I love it. It's cool how the Logamatic 2107 regulates everything (out side temp. sensor is installed). At the beginning of the season, when just taking the chill out of the house, the boiler wouldn't run that hot. Just enough to warm the radiators. (I would say 100-130 degrees.) Because the outside air temp was not that low. Now that the outside air temp. is much cooler (even below 32F at times), the boiler runs hotter. (around 150-200 degrees.) But the temps. vary widely and these temps. are not absolute. When the thermostat calls for heat, the boiler doesn't turn on along with the circulator. If the water in the boiler is hot enough, only the circulator will come on until the boiler cools down enough to warrant the oil burner to cycle on. So the boiler doesn't needlessly make more hot water than is needed. Sometimes the oil burner wont even have to turn on because there's enough hot water for the cycle of the circulator. The circulator for the heating zone for the house does cycle on and off more often to keep a more constant even air temp. in the house (68 degrees). With the new digital thermostat I'm experimenting with CPH (Cycles Per Hour). You can set the thermostat to make more short on/off cycles or longer on/off cycles by adjusting the CPH. This adjusts how often the circulator cycles on/off each hour. I started out with 5 CPH and now I'm trying out 4 CPH. The boiler will run hotter when making hot water of course (indirect fired maintaining 140 degrees with mixing valve set at 125 degrees). Domestic hot water always takes priority (or you can change that default setting). Even if the house is calling for heat and you need hot water for showers or laundry or dishwashing etc. The circulator for the house will stop and the circulator for the hot water will run until the hot water storage tank temp. is satisfied. Then the circulator for the house will continue until satisfied. I have the Logamatic on "Late" mode. Meaning the domestic hot water production stops at 11:30 PM every night. It resumes the next morning at 6:30 AM. The water storage tank (Buderus ST-150) loses very little heat standing by and there is plenty of hot water stored. So no real need to keep water at peek 140 degrees if it's not being used over night. The system goes into "Night" mode at 11:30 PM also. This turns down the "heating curve" for heating the house (lower operating temp.) The system goes into "Day" mode at 6:30 AM, where domestic hot water is priority and made first if needed and regular heating temps. are back up to normal for home heating. All these setting and times can be changed on the Logamatic to fit your homes lifestyle. It's pretty cool learning how this system works....See MoreAC/Heat/Hot water for whole house - which one would you choose?
Comments (2)Thanks for your reply. We did check out geothermal, but the cost is through the roof, even with tax credit. I think a good chunk of the quotes we got are for the ductwork - although it is a colonial the layout is a little awkward, so it will require quote a bit of custom ductwork. And we still need the ductwork even if we go geothermal....See MoreWould you buy a house with a hot tub in the basement?
Comments (12)I can't tell if it is in the BASEMENT, or if it is in a lower walk-out story? Does the floor daylight? If you aren't paying a premium for the hottub, I'd remove it if it weren't my taste. I'd not pay extra for it. And, I might adjust my price down a bit due to it. Nothing else, in the pictures, screams "ISSUE" to me. Just the DW placement is a little tight, I think, for the sink location....See MoreKitchen Hot Water - house with low water pressure
Comments (10)OK, i take it back. 1st. Before the copper pipe in the house, you may have galvanized pipe outdoors. The municipality has to replace it. ( "... i think its more a problem from the street as neighbors complain as well..." ) If the entire house was a low-flow (or low pressure) problem, this is the cause. It will be felt as a low pressure problem because of the restricted flow. This is called dynamic pressure. But before you turn on the tap, the pressure might be (static pressure). A pressure mater is inexpensive, easy to get at a hardware store, and easy to install. It will help you identify your problem more clearly. Or, you could just ask the city to change the supply pipes, since you and several neighbors all have the same problem. You have to let a fairly large quantity of water flow, in any case, to get really hot water to the sink "for cleaning pots and pans" The need is to get Hot Water to the kitchen. This does not depend on the 1st thing above. If the flow and pressure are low, it will increase the time you have to wait. But nothing will change this for the better. Except one thing: new city supply pipes (outside). The Distance between the kitchen and the hot water source is what determines the amount of wasted water before you get hot water. That, and whether the pipe is 1/2" or 3/4". Where is your tank? It is normal for the first several seconds to feel warm water, not hot. This is because the heat is being lost to the pipe at first. Once the pipe itself gets warmed up, the water temperature at the faucet is much higher. Hope this helps. Here is a link that might be useful: pressure versus volume, in 3/4in. or 1/2in. pipe...See Morenickel_kg
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