Update that marigolds and nasturtiums without flowers did not repel the svb,neither did my homemade concoction of tobacco, redpeppers, black pepper, vegetable oil, and dish soap. It rained a few hours after I applied it, today new eggs all over them. I'm giving up organic at least with the svb, trying stuff with methoxychor, or best I've heard yet is this: "A second planting of summer squash made in early July will mature after adult borers have finished laying eggs. " Another nice suggestion: "Mulches are known to harbor squash bugs" http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/squash_pest.html "Iowa State University Organics Research Program conducted trials of various control methods for squash bug and squash vine borer. Researchers found that mulching with newspaper and hay, combined with tightly secured row covers on the plots (a level 2 control), provided very effective control of both weeds and squash bugs in pumpkin (C. pepo)Âespecially in the wet season of 2002.(4, 5) The row covers apparently excluded squash bugs, preventing them from entering to lay eggs. Gauze row covers (e.g., ReemayÂ, AgriforceÂ, AgribonÂ, TufbellÂ) [Section 205.206(b)(1),(2),(3)] physically exclude pests and prevent them from reaching the plants in large numbers. Preventive strategies have become more important with recognition of A. tristis as a probable disease vector. Hand picking and trapping of A. tristis, or slitting each vine to remove the larva, in the case of M. satyriniformis, represent attempts to control pests after they have begun rearing another generation in numbers sufficient to cause economic damage and pest buildup. Such labor-intensive controls may be uneconomical for large plantings." "Some products acceptable in organic vegetable production that are effective against squash bugs include diatomaceous earth, sabodilla, and neem oil. Growers that anticipate using materials to control heavy pest infestations must list these materials and the circumstances for their use in their organic systems plan. This plan must be submitted to and approved by the organic certifier before the producer uses any material." What is a sabodilla? I found a tree by that name, is it the same thing? Here is a link that might be useful: svb info

I'm with you. SVB has been my biggest problem and I am looking for an organic way to handle them. I have put hoops over the squash bed with summer weight row covers over it. When the plants begin to blossom, I am going to go to the trouble to hand pollinate and keep the plants covered. This is feasible since I only have two hills of squash. In a huge bed, maybe not so much. FYI, the borers will also lay eggs in the soil, which can overwinter and have babies waiting for next year's crop. Be sure to rotate your squash bed! Also, there are varieties of squash that are immune to these borers: moschata being one. The trouble is, the squash we like best are also the moth's favorites. This is the method I have chosen for this year, based on what I have read on the internet and, most importantly, in this forum. I will post to let you know how it works.

You should do allright with the parthenocarpic zucchini. A popular zucchini substitute is the Trompbocino, actually a butternut type but used when young like a zucchini. Less popular is the Cucuzzi, actually a bottle gourd type, but used when young as a zucchini substitute. While Tatume/Calabacita is a C.pepo, It does according to TAMU, have some resistance to squash borers. Biggest drawback to Trombocino, Cucuzzi, and Tatume is that that they have rampant vines that will run into the next county.

Control of Squash Vine Borers and Squash Bugs is multifaceted, there is no one method, substance, or other means of control that is 100 percent effective. Nematodes can help, for the larva that are in soil where the nematodes dwell, but they are of little value if the eggs are laid on the plants and the larva stay on the plants. Floating Row Covers, early on, can help, providing a good habitat for predators of these wee buggers can also help, insectaries. Very carefully using any pesticide, most will kill any beneficials, is also of importance. Here is a link that might be useful: Squash bug control