Vines That Flower Six Months Per Year in Zone 9b
westes Zone 9b California SF Bay
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westes Zone 9b California SF Bay
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Growing Moringa Stenopetala in Zone 9b?
Comments (10)Mark, the trees generally grow to somewhere in the neighborhood of 4', plus or minus a foot, depending upon the weather that year. Irrigation is not really an issue... in fact, excessive rainfall is my most persistent problem. Moringa does not like wet feet, and my heavy soil drains poorly. If the soil becomes waterlogged, many of the plants will yellow & die. I learned early on that I should not plant them adjacent to plants which are water hogs, for that reason. Last year I put some plants in the garden, and some in large outdoor pots; the potted plants - which were better drained - were a foot taller at season's end. The number of trees I plant is limited by the fact that they must be started indoors, and the growing space - while fairly large - is shared by hundreds of other seedlings. There is also the issue of germination rates; commercial seed (from multiple sources) typically has only 50-60% germination, 70% is the best I have had. That rate drops off rapidly after the first year, so I need to order fresh seed each year. I should also note that while I can transfer peppers & tomatoes into a solar greenhouse while nights are still in the upper 40's, such temperatures will weaken and/or kill some of the Moringa seedlings... so they need to stay indoors longer. I am tentatively planning to use 12" spacing between plants next year, in double rows. That will leave enough room to weed easily. Until now, I have always planted a 32-cell tray, but I'll squeeze another tray full in somewhere....See MoreBest Grapes for zone 9b-10???
Comments (29)AZ is hotter than FL but its a dry heat thus so many less insects and fungal issues. Same for many parts of CA. Grapes grow awesome in Phx. We grew lots of yummy seedless grapes there. I really wish I could grow those types there. There is a bunch of blackish purple grapes growing wild all over our property. They have seeds and don't taste all that great. I let the chickens eat them. Maybe they are better for making jams? Anyone know of any seedless varieties that will grow in zn 9a (NE FL)?...See MoreKeeping tropicals warm in zone 9b
Comments (34)I'm not finding the thread now where I wondered whether I should prune a particular branch on my 18-month-old Alphonso mango or not, just as a flush of growth was winding down during the summer--but I did prune it. I had pruned the rest of the tree awhile earlier and it was growing like crazy, a little too much so in this one spot--it was just one solitary branch going almost to the ground. And then it just sat there looking stumped. In October (!) the tree finally responded to that pruning with a flush of tender new growth, there and in one other random spot; slower than summer, but still, five new branches, and now there's budding. So cool. (Is it normal for it to be budding in November?) But why I most wanted to come back was to thank Stanofh for his help. For the advice that my Alphonso mango needed to be kept warmer than I'd been doing in order for it to bloom. This is a warmer fall than last year's, which helps, but I've been putting my two frost cover layers over the tree right at sundown rather than waiting for the temps to get down into the fifties--what I'd read previously was that it just had to stay above 40 for the inflorescence and that cold prompts it to start budding. That appears to have been incomplete information at best. And I reset the temp control attached to the incandescent Christmas lights to click on sooner. I went looking again for a book, any book, on how to grow them and found one by Lee Reich that had a short entry on mangoes. He said they have to stay above 55 consistently to flower. Which is pretty much what Stanofh had said. So I guess there's cold and there's its idea of what cold is supposed to mean. Stanofh, when I taste my first homegrown mango I will be thanking you for it....See MoreOctober Roses..... Islamabad zone 9b
Comments (29)Khalid: Thank you for those nice pics. & I'm impressed at how large and healthy the leaves are. Your Chartreuse de Parme is beautiful, same with Belle E. Own-root roses are much smaller than grafted, and my cold-zone makes roses 1/2 the size of warm-zone. So I have to go with REALL BIG roses if I want own-root in a cold-zone. Some of the wimpy own-roots like Love Song, Bishop Castle, Jude the Obscure are sold for $40 each at Heirloom roses since it takes longer for them to root. The problem with our winter & growing indoor: STERILE potting soil is used, that doesn't have mycorrhyzal fungi for fast root-growth. Rooting OUTDOOR with fast-drainage & loamy soil plus mycorrhyzal fungi resulted in THICKER roots for me. But I have to mix that in a month is advance. If you click on the below link, you'll see how Jobes' fertilizer NPK 3-5-3 (with bacteria & fungi) makes a big difference in Julia Child's flowering. Ingredients in Jobe's fertilizer NPK 3-5-3 are "Protein Hydrolysate from feather meal, bone meal, composted poultry manure, sulfate of potash and various bacteria, endomycorrhizae, ectomycorrhzae and archaea." https://www.amazon.com/Jobes-09426-Organic-Granular-Fertilizer/dp/B002RBGO0U/ref=lp_3032347011_1_10?srs=3032347011&ie=UTF8&qid=1477666753&sr=8-10 Here's what Jobe's fertilizer for roses contain: " A consortium of three microorganisms - bacteria mycorrhizal fungi plus a unique species of archaea that breaks down complex materials." That the same microbes in compost. One person reported the best result with rooting was with coco-coir (for fast drainage) and compost. I like home-made compost better than store-bought-compost (mostly cow-manure with antibiotics, salt, and that nasty quick-lime added to deodorize)....See Morewestes Zone 9b California SF Bay
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