Well, looked at the sikkens and just couldn't find a color I liked so we have purchased the Arborcoat, hoping to stain tomorrow. Pressure washed, sanded chipped areas, and primed bare and new wood. (Only bought a quart.) Do we have to prime the whole deck? The rest of the old product is adhering well. Husband said he ligthly touched all board with the sander.

Not necessary to strip off the shellac. Varnish binds to shellac very well. Once you get the dirt and gunk removed with the DA, it's ready. Varnish is the way to go. General finishes makes an excellent water based varnish. For traditional oil based varnish, try Waterlox. Get some nice China bristle brushes for the job. If you use the waterlox, soak the brushes promptly in turpentine to get them clean. Use a wire brush to get the paint brush bristles clean and straight. Good paint brushes should last for many years if cleaned properly.

prospect711: Thanks for your reply! I had my eye on the Sharp R-820JS, which is the stainless steel sister of your Sharp! (It sounds like an amazing appliance that pretty much does it all!) I just couldn't figure out how to get the size to work. Having a deeper cabinet is a Very interesting idea! I'm going to show this to DH to see if we can somehow swing it with our Ikea cabinetry. Thanks again! (Love your cabinets and beautiful backsplash!) Luv2Laf: Your photo is Exactly what I wanted it to look like! And right next to the fridge seems like such a perfect spot! If only it had convection too - I was really hoping for a little back up oven to cook and reheat small meals. Hmmm... Thanks so much for your reply, gorgeous photo, and the food for thought! colorfast: Okay, so it seems that the microwave/convection combos, unless they are the very wide OTR type, are pretty deep. I'll stop hunting for one that isn't. (No more wild goose chase!) We were planning on having 15" wide cabinets flanking the fridge on either side as a pantry (floor to almost ceiling height), but, maybe we should make one wider set of cabinets instead, where we can put the microwave/convection oven. I love how you have yours next to a counter. That seems to be an ideal setup to me. As for recessing it into the wall, I think we're out of luck, since the wall backs a stairwell leading to the basement as well as the stairs leading upstairs. I'm not sure that we can mess with that. I will share these ideas with DH. Thank you for your reply!

Do nothing...and install the LVP as-is. The terrazzo you have is a HIGH VALUE floor. I mean SUPER expensive to duplicate. I would 'give up' on the warranty of an LVP floor and just toss it in. To do anything to this floor will ruin it for future generations. To level it you would have to grind, grind, grind, grind to get SLC to grab. Once you do that, you have lost the value of the item. At that point, you might as well spend the $3/sf to jack this out. It will be worthless. The TILE is see in the background can be left in place, you can do a bit of grinding and then fill the grout lines with SLC. You need to do some scarification of the tile to get the SLC to GRAB the tile. So long as it grabs you can fill the grout lines and flatten it to the best of your ability. I would EXPECT to use T-moldings where the two floors meet. The only way to avoid this would be to remove it all. In essence you are covering the HIGH VALUE products with a lower-value product. I get it. The current floors are not very attractive (compared to today's trends). But realize the value of the terrazzo. If you were to replicate the floor today (with modernized product) you would be looking at $25-$30/sf. Compare that to the $4/sf product you are going to cover it with. Right. LVP is a downgrade compared to terrazzo. No way around it. I would leave the terrazzo in tact and untouched. I would give up on any warranty and install the LVP over top. The tile can be dealt with as you wish. But remember to put in t-moldings between the LVP sitting over the terrazzo and the LVP sitting over the tile. NO underlayment. Most LVP's do NOT allow underlayment. Especially if they have attached underpad. This is LVP not laminate. If you want to get a cork underlay on these floors to help even out the surface then work with $4/sf laminate. That will buy you a TOP OF THE LINE European laminate. You can then use 6mm cork to correct some of the unevenness. But LVP will not allow that type of underpad.