Thanks - Thermatru says no sanding b/t coats, but I had to sand the top of the bottom sash, it was so bad. Hoping to avoid sanding the windows so much. Guess I'll put another coat on today (again, they recommend 3 hrs b/t coats but now it'll be 18). I know I should continue with waterbased, but was wondering at this point if I could just use a waterbased Minwax wipeon poly (after sanding) that won't show brush marks? Or do I have to stay with Thermatru? I might do the garage window (like attic, full soffits, but gets much colder) with Thermatru, but I've decided I don't want to use this on interior (conditioned space) windows, UV inhibitors or no. Any recommendations for those windows? I've done the jambs and sills in Minwax oilbased Wipeon poly (3 coats). Thanks

Not necessary to strip off the shellac. Varnish binds to shellac very well. Once you get the dirt and gunk removed with the DA, it's ready. Varnish is the way to go. General finishes makes an excellent water based varnish. For traditional oil based varnish, try Waterlox. Get some nice China bristle brushes for the job. If you use the waterlox, soak the brushes promptly in turpentine to get them clean. Use a wire brush to get the paint brush bristles clean and straight. Good paint brushes should last for many years if cleaned properly.

Weeds will always find a way. Your best bet would be pre-emergent. Fabric, in my experience, always ends up a pain (I have neighbors with it coming up all over; my mom had the same problem when she inherited property with some). There is so much dust in DG that weeds will come up on top of the fabric anyway. There isn't much to the installation. I know nothing about 'stabilized' DG.

Do nothing...and install the LVP as-is. The terrazzo you have is a HIGH VALUE floor. I mean SUPER expensive to duplicate. I would 'give up' on the warranty of an LVP floor and just toss it in. To do anything to this floor will ruin it for future generations. To level it you would have to grind, grind, grind, grind to get SLC to grab. Once you do that, you have lost the value of the item. At that point, you might as well spend the $3/sf to jack this out. It will be worthless. The TILE is see in the background can be left in place, you can do a bit of grinding and then fill the grout lines with SLC. You need to do some scarification of the tile to get the SLC to GRAB the tile. So long as it grabs you can fill the grout lines and flatten it to the best of your ability. I would EXPECT to use T-moldings where the two floors meet. The only way to avoid this would be to remove it all. In essence you are covering the HIGH VALUE products with a lower-value product. I get it. The current floors are not very attractive (compared to today's trends). But realize the value of the terrazzo. If you were to replicate the floor today (with modernized product) you would be looking at $25-$30/sf. Compare that to the $4/sf product you are going to cover it with. Right. LVP is a downgrade compared to terrazzo. No way around it. I would leave the terrazzo in tact and untouched. I would give up on any warranty and install the LVP over top. The tile can be dealt with as you wish. But remember to put in t-moldings between the LVP sitting over the terrazzo and the LVP sitting over the tile. NO underlayment. Most LVP's do NOT allow underlayment. Especially if they have attached underpad. This is LVP not laminate. If you want to get a cork underlay on these floors to help even out the surface then work with $4/sf laminate. That will buy you a TOP OF THE LINE European laminate. You can then use 6mm cork to correct some of the unevenness. But LVP will not allow that type of underpad.