Prudens Purple: blooming heavily, all flowers fall off, zero fruit
artinnature
6 months ago
last modified: 6 months ago
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carolb_w_fl_coastal_9b
6 months agolast modified: 6 months agoartinnature
6 months agoRelated Discussions
Sour Cherry: full bloom - little fruit set
Comments (4)Northern: I have Balaton, North Star,Sure Crop and Mesabi tart cherry in my orchard. Balaton is the best for fresh eating as very dark purple fruit and the sweetest tart cherry I have ever tasted. My daughter will eat them off the tree but not the other tart cherry varieties. Only bad news on Balaton is that in youth it is slow to come into bearing and does not yield as heavily as some of the others. My North Star is perhaps my favorite as very heavy bearing and I like the fact that I can easily keep it trimmed to 8' in height so easy to cover with netting when the fruit ripens. My best yield on my North Star was 28 quarts (measured after pitting). Sadly it now is full of bacterial blight the past 3 years and I cannot get it under control. I tried copper and had no luck. I also have Surecrop from Stark Nursery. Appears to be an amarelle type as has yellow flesh and a hot pink skin color. Very juicy and cooks up nice. It was very slow to bear as waited 5 years for the first crop. My Mesabi was an accident. It got shipped to the nursery I work at by mistake so it was free for the taking. It is a young tree and growing well. Picked the first crop off it last year and bloomed well this year. The flavor,yield and hardiness are fine. I have not had it long enough to comment further on it. A friend in Minnesota grows Mesabi and tells me the only issue for him is that the fruit is very thin walled (fleshed) compared to other tart cherries. Another friend who grows tart cherries (5 varieties for his U-pick orchard) tried it and told me the same. I don't mind since the tree was free and I mix them with my other varieties anyway after pitting. The BEST yielding tart cherry I have come across is Sweet Cherry Pie (TM) now released thru Bailey Nursery in Minnesota. I sampled it 23 years ago while visiting Bill Eubank (his selection) near River Falls WI. Bears heavily at a young age with fantastic yields. A friend trialed this cherry at his orchard and found it usually out yielded all the other commercial varieties he grows in tart cherries. It is officially out on the market this year. Since you are in Minnesota you should be able to get one at any garden center that carries fruit trees from Bailey Nursery....See MoreRoyal Purple Smoke Bush never blooms
Comments (23)Everything is making so much more sense to me after Peonysmoke's post. I too have never had my purple smokebush bloom. The first 2 years it got massive winter dieback from being in line of the winter winds. Then I moved it to another, more sunny and less windy location. Apparently it liked the move because it grew really tall last year (but no smoke). This year it looks like I may get some blooming, but only from lower limbs (the growth that is older than 2 yrs). Go figure though - I bought a "Young Lady" smokebush at the end of last fall (who can resist a 1.5 gallon shrub at $2.50?). I left it in the pot and covered it with straw for the winter. The tips looked like they had died back, but I held off pruning. Lo and behold, it has leafed out everywhere and looks to be getting ready to bloom....See MoreAgain! Big Plants, Zero Fruit
Comments (22)With the exception of Heatwave, I have grown all those tomato varieties in Sacramento, and although I am late (again! sigh) in getting all my varieties in the ground, I did get my Jetsetter planted a month ago, and it is covered with green fruit right now. So don't blame Sacramento, or the weather here! It has nothing to do with temperatures, because even when it hits 110 here, I still get tomatoes. I completely agree with the others who say you have WAY overfertilized them. Most people don't realize that compost IS fertilizer, or rather to be more accurate, compost also feeds the soil, but at a lesser concentration. So you planted your tomatoes in fertilizer and MORE fertilizer. Somehow most people have the idea you have to DO major work to make your tomatoes grow--I blame the fertilizer companies' marketing, like Miracle Grow. The truth is, yes, nutrients get depleted out of the soil if you plant the same crop over and over, but most home yards haven't been growing heavy feeding crops (like corn) for 50 years. With the exception of new housing developments, most established backyards would grow tomatoes just fine without any fertilizer, or with just putting an inch of mulch surrounding the plants when they are first planted. I would suggest you dig one up and transplant it into an area of your yard where you HAVEN'T done anything to it, and see if you have any tomatoes in a couple of months, and report back. I would suggest experimenting with the Jetsetter, because it does the best in your list at resisting nematodes. Carla in Sac...See MoreTons of flowers - zero fruit!
Comments (10)First we need to know your location or at least your zone to speculate on the effects of weather and its relationship to the condition known as Blossom Drop. The FAQ on it is linked below. Second, the name of the variety would be a big help. Some varieties are prone to doing as you describe, others are not. And your neighbor may be growing totally different varieties so they can't be compared. Third, it would help to know if you have been feeding them and if so what as excess nitrogen can cause this. Fourth, are there any signs of thrips or other insect pests? Then please keep in mind that tomatoes are self-fertile, self-pollinating. They do not require insect intervention or anything more than a good breeze. Each bloom normally pollinates itself and often does it before the bloom even opens unless some other condition exists that neutralizes the pollen - primarily excess heat, humidity, and/or nitrogen. Dave. Here is a link that might be useful: Blossom Drop FAQ...See MoreEmbothrium
5 months agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
5 months agoartinnature
5 months agoartinnature
5 months agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
5 months ago
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daninthedirt (USDA 8b, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)