tomtuxman: The key is keeping your containerized fig tree dormant as long as possible until the spring weather will support the new sprouting growth without damages. Temps in the low 40s should do it. Temps. going into the 50s will push premature bud breaking, and the new soft tissue could be damaged by plunging temps. Your unheated front porch sounds OK...as long as the temps stay very cool. When trees are dormant, light will matter very little. But trees can also be in the "quiescent" stage, and strong light and warmer temps will trigger a growth response. When dormant, little happens....when quiescent, trees are ready for breaking buds. Just try to keep the trees as cool as possible, for as long as possible. Also, keep the soil hydrated, and not bone dry. Damp is good, dust dry is not. In early spring (March-April) when the warmer temps hit the trees in your enclosed front porch, new growth will commence. Give the trees full sun, or, as much light as possible. Better yet, bring trees outside during the day, and back in at night - (the fig shuffle) - to prevent damage to new, breaking buds. If weather stays warm, get your trees outside as soon as possible. They need the full sun, or growth will be weak, and easily damaged. This "fig shuffle" is a cross we must bear when growing in colder climates. The "Bensonhurst Purple" - "Chicago Hardy" - "Hardy Chicago" will do well, with proper care. Sal's EL is reputed to be very hardy also. Don't be fooled by that "hardy" qualifier....figs come from the Mediterranean climates, and in cold climate areas, can be damaged, if not killed, by adverse conditions, especially when grown in containers. Sustained, below freezing temps can damage any fig tree. Fig trees must be properly treated BEFORE dormancy, so they can survive the near/below-freezing temperatures even if protected, and in a storage area. Culture is everything. No fertilizers after mid July, or you'll push soft growth too late in the season. Soft, juicy wood, before dormancy = damaged growth from low temps. That said, your front porch sounds OK for overwintering containerized fig trees....with precautions, and observations. I hope this helps. You can do it. Frank This post was edited by BronxFigs on Sun, Feb 9, 14 at 7:23

Herman -- I suppose U have lots of friendly neighbours. It would probably take me 3 to 4(Hopefully less) years to have a bumper harvest with trees in the ground from next year onwards. Yup - this forum & yr inputs (& Many other regulars ) have guided my fig collection forays. I have stayed away from BT & Celeste, except for Vern's BT. Keeping honest is probably a challenge for some nurseries. Like the other day I was at this particular nursery where I have been a few times & there was this fig plant that had no name on. Well, suddenly this "no name" fig plant had a freshly name tag & its leave shape is no way near the variety it was suppose to be. My motivation to shop there for fig trees disappeared. Anyway thanks for yr valueable inputs. Paul

I have noticed that Evening is best for our (rainy) climate because every morning,fig fruits take water from night due,and are more susceptible to go bad fast,and be less flavorfull.By Evening the water they took in is all gone. Of course George point about cat birds ,vermine is corect too and add to the decision to harvest early evening. The most important is to allwayes get all the ripe figs off before a rain is anounced locally.Last evening i harvested 4 kilos of ripe figs and i am making jam right now. I did not put a picture on because some people think i am going TY Ty stile. If i would left them on last night most of them would have been full of water,cracked and tasteless. Especially Brunswick wich had about 3 pounds of figs to harvest from last night.I make 10- 12 ,8 ounces Jars from 4 kilos of fresh figs. Happy Harvest to all. Hope this will help.

30F should have killed the green top growth. You want the brown branches with somewhat green/yellow terminal buds to root. Fully dormant works just as well. I use the wet paper towel method as I find it the easiest and takes up the least amount of room during winter. Max figs = max branching. You don't want a single stem growing 10' up. If you maximize the branching you get more of a bush / open vase growth. While this works great in-ground, it may be a PITA for pots i.e. you get a face full of branches while moving them and winter storage is difficult because of how wide they are.