Ours is 6 feet, alto it was custom built by a window company. We have half shades that slide up so we can pass food thru the side windows of the bay window. I also had the sides made the same size as the middle pane, as I wanted plenty of room for large dishes to go through it. Originally there was a 7 foot wide window there, wife wanted a 5 foot, I wanted another 7 foot, so we compromised at 6 feet (LOL). Gary

It's the Danze Opulence. The one thing that I don't like about my faucet is that the reach is horrible. It only extends about 3 or 4" into the sink bowl. That means I wind up using the pulldown a LOT. Yeah, I've got stuff. Unfortunately it's now all covered in sawdust from Hubby having to level out the subfloor. So it'll be back through the dishwasher for everything once the floor is completely in. We don't plan to leave the cupboards open. Rebuilding and refinishing the doors is just really low on our list of priorities.

Earlier I showed my wife this thread and she like to thank everyone for the help. She couldn't believe you folks actually spent the time perusing the floorplan and provided us with valuable feedback. Ok back to business.. So she ruled out moving the fridge beside the DW. In fact, she was very much against it. I do have to admit it will solve all our concerns. Also she wasn't keen on moving the pantry/laundry room wall, she like to keep her walk in pantry and not stack the washer/dryer. Thinking about it some more, we are leaning towards the idea idea of shrinking the patio door from 6' to 4' double French door(not sure if builder offers it). This will allow us to add an additional 24" cabinet and counter space beside the DW. Based on all your feedbacks, it appear fridge and island are the bigger concerns. FRIDGE: For easier fridge access, we are thinking of shrinking the space between stove and fridge. Currently that space is roughly 24". If we do decide to shorten it, what will be a small enough counter width to still be useful? I like to create enough space between fridge and wall to install a pull out pantry as some of you suggested. If it gets too tight, another option we considered is move the stove "up" by 12" towards the sink. However I am not sure whether it will be too close to the sink or not, thoughts? ISLAND: Wife wants an island, so it's here to stay. The good thing is it's floating and not fixed. I still don't have a good idea of what to do with it, might just push it further out for now so it won't impede traffic. At the same time I don't want to push it so far out that we can't fit a table in the breakfast area. Also I don't want to pay builder more to make it bigger. *sigh* so much options, so limited $.

I would make it counter-height and wider than the sink. If it's a 36" wide sink, I would try for a 48" wide window, if you can. It's a personal thing, though; I think windows wider than the sink look better. Plus, I like big windows! Counter-height windows open up a space and give it an airier feeling. Another thing I recommend is a 6- or 7-inch bumpout with the window. It gives you more space behind the window to minimize splashing and to also have more room for faucet, etc., behind the sink. See the pictures of bumped out windows in the thread below - in particular, look at MamaDadaPaige's and ErikaNH's windows. Thread: counter height window pictures please . A couple of comments on your layout: I think your aisles are fine, but keep in mind that the true width of an aisle is determined by measuring counter edge-to-counter edge or appliance handle. In your layout, it appears you are measuring cabinet-to-cabinet. Standard base cabinet boxes (without doors or drawer fronts) are 24" deep, standard counters are around 1.5" deep. So, your aisles are probably at least 3" narrower than you think they are. With 48" aisles, that brings them down to no more than 45" - which should be fine unless there will be a lot of traffic in the aisles. In front of the refrigerator, for example, the actual aisle is probably closer to 42" if you have a counter-depth refrigerator; shallower if you have a standard-depth refrigerator. Don't center your prep sink on the island. You rob yourself of a nice expanse of workspace on one side by splitting it b/w the two. Is your seating overhang at least 15" of clear knee/leg space (after accounting for cabinets and doors on the cabinets "in front" of the seating overhang? Doors are approximately 1" thick. This is the minimum recommended depth for an overhang at counter-height. ...........E.g., an island with one set of cabinets will need to be at least 41.5": ...........1.5" front counter overhang + 24" deep cabinets + 1" door or finished end panel + 15" ...........seating overhang = 41.5" Unless you have very, very good ventilation in your pantry or no door, I would rethink putting a refrigerator (or freezer) in the pantry. Refrigerators (and freezers) give off a lot of heat and pantries should be dry and cool. You don't want to have a year-round heater running in your pantry causing food to spoil too quickly. . . '...I'm thinking of making the cabinet under the sink ... 2" lower than counter height as well...' If you make the sink cabinet 2" lower than the surrounding cabinets, then you need to make the adjacent cabinets the same height as well. From the NKBA Guidelines (Rule 11, Cleanup/Prep Sink Landing Area): "Note A: If all of the countertop at the sink is not the same height, then plan a 24” landing area on one side of the sink and 3” of countertop frontage on the other side, both at the same height as the sink." . .