Hello cheuh, You determine what is important. A plant is more or less the same from one landscape to the other, but the role they play and the inherent characteristics which are emphasized change. A camellia could be a stunning accent in one garden and a ho-hum hedge in another. In one case, it is being employed for its flowers, in the other, its massing. "Importance" is a tricky word, as it implies an intrinsic value. Allow me to recall that, and substitute it with "emphasis". What is intended to grab the attention? What do you want noticed? It is something that you can manipulate with a huge variety of techniques and to which there is no known universal equation. I gave the example of using size to give order to the design according to spatial impact. Yes, the largest trees, having the largest bulk, create a larger effect on the space. That doesn't mean the largest trees should or do garner the most emphasis; the trees which structure the space could simply be a background to which other plants or elements play. Or not. Laag gives one example of manipulating emphasis. Perhaps one way of thinking of significance/importance/emphasis is in terms of portions. A greater number of portions means each one is individually smaller. Having fewer portions also allows for having larger portions, too. Sometimes this isn't true, though. Placement, alignment, contrast (in forms, colours, texture, movement, size), repetition - all of the "how a plant is used" - have an impact too. It would be impossible to cover all the ways in which something is manipulated to become more important, more emphasized, or more significant. One of the best ways to figure out which manner you wish to manipulate them is by example; find what appeals to you, and analyze it until the cows come how. Exposure to different designs will help with this. (It is also handy if they have both plans and photos of the design, instead of just one or the other, since both can be deceiving to their alternate form). - Audric

Our lot is marked for general use and doesn't have any restrictions other than minor easements which we have already met (value of the house and setbacks). Therefore the current plan is to have pavement all the way to the north side of the lot. (The neighbor has a 12 foot patch of grass behind it.) We live in Fairbanks, AK where in the winter we can have as little as 3 hours and 45 minutes of light during the day and thus southern exposure is highly desirable. In addition we are building a really well insulated house (walls will be R-41 or R-37 after considering thermal bridging) with the idea to capture as much heat gain from the sun as much as possible. As far as RV (or a boat), if I ever buy one, I would park it at the back of the lot, right along the north side of the lot. We haven�t done much planning on the layout of the backyard as all of our free time and effort was spent on choosing a house plan and finding an affordable lot in town. (Our budget will also be fully exhausted after building the house, paving the driveway, and small patio in the back.) The entire process started in the middle of May this year so this process is extremely rushed. I appreciate everyone�s honesty and agree with trying to "pound a square peg into a round hole" �. but I�m sure something like this is do able. For example have the square small enough to fit into the hole or the other way around. ;) What I am looking for is a way to use this orientation to our "advantage", if possible. In other words is it possible to turn this weakness into strength? If it�s not possible, then we will rotate the house slightly to the north. PS � We are rushing with the construction of our house b/c right now we are paying $2,000 for renting a 1,300 sq. ft. duplex built in 1980s. With the current rates, for the same amount of money I can afford to own a 2,300 sq. ft. house if I build it myself. Thus, for the same monthly payment I can own my own place. With 14,000 heating degree days in my area whenever the fuel cost go up my rent follows. Owners of 1980�s construction often pay 5-6K (sometimes more) for heating their homes. While, really well insulated homes are around $2,000 to heat for the entire year.

i have some of these ground hugging Js in shade ... no plant will die in shade ... but they are a bit sparser than similar types in full sun after 10 years .. so.. in a decade or so.. you might not like how they end up ... as to the coral bells.. perhaps a post in the perennial forum will get you info on their tolerance to shade ... also.. shade is a word.. that defies understanding ... it would be better to tell us how many hours of sun if any ... 8 hours of sun is full sun ... and yet ... that leaves something like 5 hours of shade ... so be a bit more specific in that regard.. what you call shade might not be shade.. in my warped world ... there is also shade that is like a cave.. and shade so bright .. you need sunglasses.. etc ... frankly.. just do it ... if they fail the thrive.. move them to better places.. and try something new next year ... i like the idea of your color scheme ... if you are leaning toward the fuchsia/pink and blue ... good luck ken ps: one way to glean light levels.. is to look to what else is thriving in the spot ... or what failed.. any insight this way??? e.g. if grass wont grow in this shade .. just blacktop it.. because if the worlds greatest weed cant live.. nothing will .. lol [think norway maple and the barren earth under them]

Before you do anything contact your county office of the Michigan State University USDA Cooperative Extension Service and inquire about having a good, reliable soil test done (about $13.00) so you know what your soils pH and nutrient load is and what things that may need to be done to correct any problems, or get that soil into a condition that will grow a good healthy stand of grass. The dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to help you know more about your soil and what needs be done to make that soil into a good, healthy place for grass to grow strong and healthy and better able to keep things sucj as "weeds" from growing there. Here is a link that might be useful: MSU CES