Young Juliet cherry tree - pruning and staking questions?
ostrich
last year
last modified: last year
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Comments (8)
ostrich
last yearSorry that I forgot to attach photos, which would help, right!? :-)
These first two trees are the same one but from different angles. You see how "overgrown" it seems to be, but the trunk is hard to see though.... I have a stake next to it but only loosely attached so that the trunk can sway and move.
Now this is the other one which does not look as "overgrown" but the trunk is even weaker here:
I would really appreciate your advice! Thanks.
P.S. Should I have allowed these trees to bear so many cherries when they are so young?ostrich
last yearRelated Discussions
sweetheart cherry pruning question (see pic)
Comments (7)Johndoug: I come down with Baumer on this one, in disagreement with my esteemed colleagues Konrad and Geraldo. A rare moment indeed. I would have headed the tree back at 3 feet or even less at planting time, but for now would cut it off below the top of the chickenwire, just as Baumer suggests. That wild single branch up-top is not the future of your tree. You don't need it and you don't want it. What you want is a nice, low-branching, spreading tree if you can train it, and that is why I suggest you look into ways to spread the branches and reduce the sharp crotch angles and upward growth of this tree. If you are having deer problems on the tree (And who doesn't?), you should soon be looking into taller, stronger wire, maybe anchored by a couple of steel posts, to allow for future branch spreading within the protected area. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA...See MorePruning Weeping Cherry Tree
Comments (10)The low graft just means it will never get to be a very large tree at all. And you don't want to do any pruning at this time. Let the tree establish and develop. You should remove any shoots that appear below the graft and any top shoots that are growing in an unusual, outward or non-weeping pattern. But leave the lower branches/shoots in place for the time being as they help with establishment and trunk development. After a few years in the ground, you can gradually remove them from the the lowest point up to where the canopy really starts to develop. Not to rain on your parade but you should be aware that weeping flowering cherries - in fact, most flowering cherries - tend to be problematic trees in the PNW. Our climate seems to generate a lot of disease issues and weeping cherries/flowering cherries tend to have the lion's share. Keep on top of any problems, watch for rootstock shoots and enjoy your little tree for as long as it looks good and remains in good health....See MorePruning Young Trees - Now with pictures
Comments (34)The conflicting information you find is usually the result of the lack of keeping up with current trends and findings. Many old schoolers believe they know all they need to know and seldom attend industry and trade seminars or partake of continuing education. This is a pretty rapidly evolving course of study and practices that were accepted and very commonplace in the past have frequently been found to be less effective than assumed or even counterproductive. And, not all horticulturists and arborists agree on all the practices :-) This is not a perfect world and sometimes old habits die very hard! btw, the nursery industry is not typically where one finds a lot of trained horticulturists -- the pay is generally not anywhere commensurate with the training :-) As to Ken's adamant statements about not voiding the warranty, I'd pretty much blow that off (sorry, Ken!). It is extremely unusual to find a plant warranty that extends longer than 12 months and many of the problems associated with improper planting practices (i.e., leaving on wire cages, NOT correcting root defects, planting too deeply etc.) will not manifest immediately. As the quoted text above indicates, the establishment period for planting/transplanting easily exceeds that 12 month period and a good many problems associated with poor planting practices will not become apparent until well after the warranty period is expired. btw, local nurseries here DO tend to recommend the removal of all wrappings and often their warranties will be voided if you DO NOT! As to bare rooting B&B trees, read the link. It explains very clearly how to properly seat and secure the root systems in the planting hole, frequently without the need for any staking. And the breaking of the root ball should not sever any major roots unless they were damaged by the digging in the first place. There is often some loss to fine feeder roots but the removal of the heavy clay encourages their replacement, which typically will happen much faster without its impediment. And it is the development of these feeder roots that is of critical importance. And the benefits generated by loosening and removing that heavy soil and being able to accurately assess and correct root defects, determine root flare and correct planting depth outway any temporary root loss. And to get back to the original issue, I see nothing in the shrubs illustrated that would urge me to any significant stem removal or pruning at this time....See MoreHelp Pruning a Young Tree (Eastern Redbud)
Comments (13)I manipulate growth pattern all the time w/plumeria and brugmansias. If you don't, you may have ugly trees that don't usually "fix" themselves. You remove the stakes eventually, it's not meant to be there forever. Yes I've had a few instances In which it was questionable whether I helped tree but few and far between. Deciduous magnolias, jap maples, redbuds benefitted from my helping along w/ a stake and or splints....See Moreostrich
last year
Virginia Crawford
last yearMy juliet cherry has only grown horizontally until recently. I am wondering if I should stake some branches to encourage upward growth? It is quite flat. In the 2nd pic you can see an older branch that has arched over.
ostrich thanked Virginia Crawfordostrich
last year
FrozeBudd_z3/4
last year
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