Chris is right! I have a 16 pounder and it has no root nubs. It well be flowering with in the next few months or so as the shoot is about 3" tall tight now. I NEVER store my A. Konjac's in ANYTHING. I dig them up, let them dry. rub off the dried dirt and dry root pieces that were still left on, and store them on open shelf's in my basement where it stays about 50- 54 degrees. Small bulblets I clean in the same way, and store in an open shallow box. This year I only have three blooming, but that's OK as My family doesn't get as excited about their blooms as I DO! ALSO, I have had a bulb try to rot. All I did was clean odd the soft area back to fresh solid white bulb, and leave it on my counter to dry or scab over. Put it back in the basement after about 4 - 5 days and plant as I would all the others! you may get more than one sprout. I always cut multi shoots back to the biggest nicest one so I only get one bulb. Multiple shoots means multiple bulbs. If that's what you want let them all grow! I have enough small babies every year that I don't let large bulbs divide! HAVE FUN David AKA KonjacKing

Growing Tomatoes FAQ: What is blossom-end rot? How can I prevent it? Blossom-end rot is a disorder of tomato, squash, pepper, and all other fruiting vegetables. You notice that a dry sunken decay has developed on the blossom end (opposite the stem) of many fruit, especially the first fruit of the season. This is not a pest, parasite or disease process but is a physiological problem caused by a low level of calcium in the fruit itself. Symptoms BER, or blossom-end rot usually begins as a small "water-soaked looking" area at the blossom end of the fruit while still green. As the lesion develops, it enlarges, becomes sunken and turns tan to dark brown to black and leathery. In severe cases, it may completely cover the lower half of the fruit, becoming flat or concave, often resulting in complete destruction of the infected fruit. Cause Calcium is required in relatively large concentrations for normal cell growth. When a rapidly growing fruit is deprived of calcium, the tissues break down, leaving the characteristic lesion at the blossom end. Blossom-end rot develops when the fruit's demand for calcium exceeds the supply in the soil. This may result from low calcium levels in the soil, drought stress, excessive soil moisture, and/or fluctuations due to rain or overwatering . These conditions reduce the uptake and movement of calcium into the plant, or rapid, vegetative growth due to excessive nitrogen fertilization. Management Adequate preparation of the garden bed prior to planting is the key to preventing BER. Insure adequately draining soil in the bed by adding needed ammendments, maintain the soil pH around 6.5 - a pH out of this range limits the uptake of calcium. Lime (unless the soil is already alkaline), composted manures or bone meal will supply calcium but take time to work so must be applied prior to planting. Excess ammonial types of nitrogen in the soil can reduce calcium uptake as can a depleted level of phosphorus. After planting, avoid deep cultivation that can damage the plant roots, use mulch to help stabilize soil moisture levels and help avoid drought stress, avoid overwatering as plants generally need about one inch of moisture per week from rain or irrigation for proper growth and development. Once the problem develops, quick fixes are difficult. Stabilize the moisture level as much as possible, feeding with manure or compost tea is recommended by many, foliar applications of calcium are of questionable value according to research because of poor absorption and movement to fruit where it is needed but many have reported that foliar application of magnesium (epsom salts) can effect added calcium uptake. Other various suggestions consist of powdered milk, crushed egg shells tea, bone meal tea, Tums tablets, etc. but prevention is the key. Some recommend removing affected fruit from to reduce stress in the plant. BER should not be confused with fruit abortion or inadequate pollination although the symptoms may appear similar. The onset of BER occurs only after the fruit is well on it's way to development while insufficient pollination problems terminate the fruit while still quite small. Here is a link that might be useful: BER FAQ

I would remove most of the roots just below the junction of the two stems. That way you get a better look at possible remaining rot in the stems. A particular area if concern is the hemicircle of dark tissue in the lower, right side stem. If there is dark colored tissue in the cross-section, you may need to cut higher and even possibly separate the two limbs. Then let the cuts callous in air for about a week. Pot in dry soil, and wait for signs of new growth before watering. This will take some time, maybe a couple of months or more. The old rule of thumb is about 1 month per inch in diameter. Patience is required. Heavy watering too soon will rot the plant again. Happy Growing! Brad

Get all the stems out of the soil, cut off all rotted roots. Cut stems without roots above the rotted sections. Let the trimmed plants dry for several days. Make up a soil mix with potting soil and pumice 50% each. Pot up rooted stems like any cactus, the cut stems standing on the soil, propped up so the stem can stand on the soil. In weeks to months these will reroot.