Nah. I've rooted G. croucheri ssp croucheri twice from a single leaf--the first time had a nice amount of meristem, then the second time when I cut the original leaf out (it was too long and in the way) and stuck it back in pumice. Both times it rooted. Somewhere in this thread, hanzrobo mentioned he suspected the meristem ran along the entire length of the leaf. That is, they are actively-dividing cells that you can take advantage of. It takes months and months though. G. batesiana, specifically, is a mind-numbingly slow species, if you have the original one and not a hybrid.

I don't think you really need to pot them all together - they pup so often when treated well that you will have a clump with each in no time! Here is my Gasteria 'Little Warty' last July when I bought it: And here it is today, just one year later: Mine would probably be even bigger if I put it in a bigger pot. =)

I bought a gasteria with rotting leaves. I took it out. Cleaned off any bits of roots left. Planted it in almost 100% pumice. I believe I gave it a touch a water once in three months. The leaves slowly lost all their moisture. It did root. I started watering it conservatively, until it had two new sets of leaves. I took it out. Removed the leaves that did not recover, put it back in that 2.5". The plant was a size normally potted in 4" pot. Once it was fully rooted, I sized it up. I I have since made 2.5 changes; 1. Give it a soak in a peroxide solution - the parts found below the substrate 2a. Medium - smaller & 2 or more types of grit 2b. Add mycorrhizal fungi If you dare to continue, more detail below. (Caution; online help might be spot or dead like rot, a simple basement dweller or an highly intelligent feller, for him good like cake, for her just another fake, or just okay for you & me.) After removing the dead/rot roots, I would soak it in a peroxide solution. Everyone has an opinion on how much to dilute the peroxide or for 3% not at all. As well as opinions on how long. My opinion, enough to create active bubbles. Until the activity starts to slow. Don't worry if you forget about it. --- The peroxide kills the plant killing pathogen, as well as stimulate new root growth. Smaller grit creates smaller holes and openings, inhibiting growth of anchor roots for a much bigger network of feeder roots. The little bit of water I do give gets trapped in small openings that these feeder roots are actively seeking out. The blend provides not only more varying openings. A small amount of various nutrients. Mycorrhizal have the ability to penetrate rock to make the micro-nutrients available. This allows succulents to live in areas low in nutrients, but high inorganic matter. I now use fine grade pumice, lava rock & perlite with some bark I crush into small bits. Lavagrow, the lava rock I use is packed with micro-nutrients needed for healthy roots. The bark provides some easier access macro-nutrients not found in rock.

I found (and purchased, to save at least a couple) the same exact species, potted also in pure coir, in dumb holiday-themed pots without any drainage holes. This was at a prices-off kind of store, which usually doesn't sell live plants, right after the holidays. You couldn't beat the price for such nice plants. I felt sorry for the ones I had to leave behind. When I got them home, I repotted them in an appropriate succulent potting mix in clay pots and put them under artificial lights. They are, thank goodness, doing beautifully and growing well.