connietn- I very much appreciate your input. What originally sparked my idea for this fence was the stainless steel siding that the owner had installed on the dormer in the attic. The unpainted metal is very shiny and industrial looking. She has now also added this siding as deck skirting under the front porch. So that started me thinking along the lines of subtly industrial touches on a classic bungalow; traditional white wooden fence posts, but with a modern stainless steel cable strand between. But, I'm not trying to argue my position, or 'convince' anyone; opinions were what I wanted, and I thank you for taking the time to give yours. :)

What a mess. As long as the same hvac company is involved,you will continue having problems. If the warranty alows you to choose repair company,it's obvious what you need to do. Choose a company who agrees the coil worked well and will again as long as it is equiped with 410a control. Convince the warranty company they choose an inept contractor and needs to dump them in favor of one who can properly diaginois the problem. Based on past perormance,the problem may have nothing to do with the coil. You don't want to sink any of your money in this unless you have written assurance of cost and satisfaction.

Tigerdunes brought up demand defrost versus timed defrost. For the past 18 years, I have dealt with my Lennox defrost scheme. The only times I heard it go into defrost mode were when the unit was first running in heat mode. The unit would switch over from heat to defrost, the defrost cycle would complete and everything would turn off. I never heard it run a defrost cycle when it was not first heating. I rarely heard it go into defrost. I never heard it defrost on a fixed cycle such as every 90 minutes. Am I to understand that a Carrier will just go into defrost mode every X minutes whether it needs it or not and is not in a heating cycle; just turn on and defrost itself? I found this information in the Carrier 25HNB6 heat pump installation instructions: AUTO defrost adjusts the defrost interval time based on the last defrost time as follows: When defrost time When defrost time 3-5 minutes, the next defrost interval=90 minutes. When defrost time 5-7 minutes, the next defrost interval=60 minutes. When defrost time >7 minutes, the next defrost interval=30 minutes. The control board accumulates compressor run time. As the accumulated run time approaches the selected defrost interval time, the control board monitors the coil temperature sensor for a defrost demand. If a defrost demand exists, a defrost cycle will be initiated at the end of the selected time interval. A defrost demand exists when the coil temperature is at or below 32_F (0_C) for 4 minutes during the interval. From that description, if the time interval elapses and the coil is not at 32 degress, then no defrost will take place. That, to me, sounds like a form of demand defrost. Is Baldloonie saying that the coil could be at 32 degrees or less without frost and, therefore, a defrost cycle would be unnecessary? What kind of ambient sensor detects presence or absence of frost? Neohioheatpump asked, "When your old A/C would run, was it producing water?" It was producing water and I saw it dripping from the condensate drain. One weekend I went out of town and came back to find water on the floor around the return box that the fan coil sits on. I opened up the access and found the interior insulation of that box soaked. Turns out the condensate line was plugged. Took awhile for that to dry out. On the other hand, this past summer I did not see water dripping from the condensate drain. The drain line was not plugged and the drip pan seemed dry. I thought it was because I had dried out the air so much with the two dehumidifiers that there wasn't enough remaining for the A/C to remove. Cooling was normal. Running the fan on manual started with the installation of the Lennox and an associated Honeywell Electronic Air Cleaner. The house suddenly became dusty and I blamed the EAC for not doing its job. The Honeywell zone representative came to my house, sized up the situation, and told me to run the fan on manual so that the dust would remain suspended in the air and available to be captured by the EAC. I did that and it was of no help for the dust situation but it did help reduce the temperature differential between the first and second floors during cooling so I kept doing it as a matter of routine. Thus, I cannot say that not running the fan reduced the humidity. Though I complained about humidity, the heat pump contractor never told me that I was humidifying the house by running the fan (on orders from the Honeywell rep). I will continue to run at least one dehumidifier in the completely below grade basement during the summer because I want that area to be warm and dry to avoid mold and mildew. I've been in the basements of other houses in the area that don't use dehumidifiers and they stink. Mike Home said, "You stated in an earlier post that you run the fan in the summer because the upper floor is 2-3 degrees hotter than the lower floor. I think adding the attic insulation will help this." I agree that adding attic insulation could help. But, having a Dutch Colonial house with a barn-like roof that is covered in dark shingles on the east and west sides causes a lot of heat gain through the second floor walls. I'm not keen on opening the walls to determine the amount of insulation or add to it. Changing to a light-colored roof would make the house look out of character with the neighborhood. There are newer shingles that reject heat gain that I will investigate. Mike Home also said, "You could also zone the first and second floors, but this is expensive and probably not feasible with your current duct work." There is but one main feed duct and it runs through the basement. There is no way to segregate the room feeds in this scheme without doing each one individually. I'll leave that expense to the next owner.

I have Sensate and I have had it almost a year. The sensor is in the curve of the neck of the faucet. By raising your hand up into the curve, you will activate the on/off. It doesn't matter where you stand since the sensor is in the curve not facing you, per say. I can stand on the other side of the island to activate the faucet as long as my hand can reach to the curve of the faucet. My hose will go to the bottom of my sink and to the far corner of the shelf of stages 33. I have it center mounted. Once it wasn't behaving quite right. I checked and the plug had come out of the plug just a little because of the long hose hitting it. Once I re-seated the plug, all was well. The spray is very handy/powerful in preparing dishes for the dishwasher and sweeping debris to the disposal. If I cook pasta or potatoes, the heavy steam will activate the sensor, turning it on or off. To avoid that, just press the lever into the off position and there won't be any water until you activate the faucet again using the lever. There is a tiny indicator light on the hand lever that indicates sensor function is on and ready to go. I keep mine off unless I am cooking/cleaning. BTW, amazon has some Kohler on daily deals if anyone is preplanning.