With all that green cane coming out of it I'd say it looks great! As canes age they become woody like that. It doesn't mean there is anything wrong with them. They're just older wood. Weed it out and take out any dead ones you find and let it grow.

Since you don't specify the name/type of rose, I can't be sure, but it looks to me like you have abnormally abundant thorns. If so, you have the dreaded rose rosetta disease. RRD manifests differently on different roses, but on many one gets very thick, fleshy stalks with way too many thorns. They have grown too quickly and can't support the weight. Often the green is lighter than the other stalks/canes. Those that do make it will usually start putting forth a witches broom. More photos would be helpful. If it is RRD, you must get rid of it.

You made a mistake by cutting them back last fall. In your zone you should not prune your roses in the fall. Wait until spring. The roses store nutrients in the canes and you cut that supply off when you pruned them. That being said, last year was a particularly bad winter and you probably would have lost most of the cane anyway. Nothing you can do about that. We all started out with shorter than normal roses this spring. They'll need time to recuperate and rebuild their structures. Knowing what roses you have will also help us to determine how large and bushy you can expect them to get. Roses can take from 3 to 5 years to fully mature so be patient. As for the puckered leaves we really would need to see a photo of them to be able to diagnose what's going on. Why are you using the Bioneem oil? Do you have a bug infestation? If not then you don't need it. If you do not have a specific insect that you have correctly identified and are using the correct product for that bug, you could be killing off beneficial insects instead. That could set you up for an even worse problem later on. Only use insecticide when you have a bug, know exactly what bug it is and determine the correct insecticide to use for that bug. Not all insecticides work on all bugs. For now I would keep them well watered and fertilize them following the instructions on the fertilizer carefully and be patient.

I've looked at the pictures and see some things you can change to improve the health of the rose bush, besides taking care of the borer damage. This rose is sitting in a rock mulch. Roses should be mulched with a forest-based product which neither reflects sunlight nor retains heat. Most of that damage is sunburn. I see another plant nearby. Roots from both the rose and that plant will compete for the same water and nutrients. Did you fertilize your rose over the summer? Fertilizers should be applied full-strength only during the active fall and spring growing seasons. Using 1/2 or 1/4 strength in the summer is advisable. Cut out the dead canes clean to the graft, no stumpy things or nubs. Some of those pruning cuts have aged out the cane. A rose will only grow three canes from the same spot before it kills off that bud eye. As always, there may be an exception to that rule but most of the time, you'll find a cane trying to grow out of 1/4 nub. You can contact me if you have any questions. Jeannie Cochell, Master Consulting Rosarian, Phoenix Rose Society