If you are planning on using epoxy putty, or other synthetic wood fillers to repair rotted depressions, the use of a clear finish is most likely undesirable. Obviously, if using any clear or semi-transparent finishes - patching these areas with a wood species compatible with cypress, entails a lot of work and appropriate woodworking skills. This statement - "a real pain to repair again" - suggests that the above is not an option. Therefore, solid body finishes are the way to go. The first step would be to prepare the surface carefully by removing all traces of dirt, grime and prior coatings. Next, after drying completely, sand with 80 grit - remove all dust with tack cloths and apply a good quality, oil-based, bare wood primer with stain-blocker - followed by the best exterior latex enamel available in your area. Ben Moore has always been my specification preference - for exterior and interior coatings. Consider Benjamin Moore Alkyd 366 for the primer and Moorgard Latex for the finish coat. They're pricier than most, but you get what you pay for.

Going with filler or not is not the issue, your floors will not expand that drastically to push the filler out, the correct way would have been to fill the entire floor after the first sand process before the fine sanding is done, the key is to use the right filler, (woodwise brand is the only one I use), which with pine would be something like red oak filler, from what you're saying it seems like he probably used white oak filler which definitely stands out from pine, I'm currently refinishing 100 year old pine and after the initial sanding, i will use a trowel over the whole area, even after the second one if needed, that way, when the final sanding round with 100 grit paper is done and screened with a buffer, it will all be smooth and blend in perfectly, and yes, going natural over any wood with poly, it will turn yellow, water based sealer is needed if you want a more natural look.

Intersting John. I see on the site instrustions to make any cut for curves/angles and such my questions are in this area as well as the self seal they are talking about with the pre drill. 30 years is way above your adverage warenty but as I looked the fine print was a bit slight there is of course the conection to the foundaiton,rusting that dosent make the project fall down just sag a little but still in their idea of structrual,how much does the install go against a warenty at all that is more detailed instrustions would be required for a steel strusture if your basic Carpenter tried one on, things like that. Intersting though the JonMon is always considering. If you please how long has your deck been up,exposure to the weather,did you make any cuts in the steel or was it a kit. J.

Thanks RedRyder - the restorer is elderly and has put me off for another month, he has been working on many projects (because he is good, from what I understand) but he and his brother have been ill. I am hoping they can get to my pieces next month. If this table doesn't have veneer, which it seems to me it doesn't then I will try it myself. I have a 120 year old chair that I would never touch and needs repairs so I am hoping he can do that for me. If it is veneer I will have him do both if he is up for it. The chair - my dad found it in a shed on a farm he was working on in 1959, they gave it to him so he cleaned it up for my mom who had her first child in 1960. I have had it for decades and hope to get it fixed up - the finish is actually good (except the places where there is paint because my brothers were messing around when it was stored in the basement...oh, brother!) I love this chair, 1898 -1903 is my guess, I found one almost exactly like it in the 1898 catalog.