If you want to see photos of finished projects like this, the Kitchens forum here has a finished projects blog loaded with photos and products used. Go here: Finished Kitchens Blog At the far right under "Categories" click on Cabinets. At the next screen you'll see categories for cabinet manufacturers, then below that wood species, and if you scroll below that (about 1/3 down the page) you'll see a "Cabinet Finish" column. Click on "Glazed", lots of nice photos there! ;) Although I've not done this project myself yet, I've glazed other projects. You can use pre-tinted glaze (I've not tried them yet, so can't attest to how well they work). Companies such as McCloskey makes a wide range of pre-tinted glazes that you can choose from. I've seen this line at Lowe's, HDepot, and independent stores (not always the full line, depends on the store). Also Lowe's website shows their American Traditions line has a wide range of tinted glazes. Whenever I've used glaze on projects I've purchased clear glaze and added it to the paint color of my choice (be sure to follow instructions on can for proper mixing ratio). You get much more control over the final color that way. For antiquing I generally use a color that is a deep brown (such as in the raw umber family). You can 'thin' it with the glaze till it suits your taste, anywhere from dramatic to a soft haze. Glaze extends the working time of paint. So keep in mind the more paint you add to the glaze the less work time you have. Working with glaze is really simple, but your cabinets shouldn't be the guinea pig for tinkering with ratio that will give the final look ;) So strongly recommend practicing your technique and different ratios of paint-to-glaze on a piece of painted scrap wood/scrap drywall till you get the look you want and a feel for how to work with it. I found a little 'how to' video here (although the purple cabinets are perhaps not the best example, it shows you the process step by step )

More information would be helpful. Did your cabinets come painted? Sorry to say but I think your best bet is to repaint all your cabinets, unless you nail a color and sheen match. I've found that big box stores are the worst at matching. Ace and Ben Moore have been on the money each time. Not sure about SW, don't like their paint, and other companies like Vista.

@jimcooley "These were painted 2+ weeks ago and are no longer tacky to the touch. " No longer tacky and curing are not the same thing. Curing is a chemical process that continues to happen long after a coating is no longer tacky. Alkyd coatings cure through oxidation. "If it’s not completely cured, do you foresee issues applying a top coat with stronger post catalyst material at this point? " Yes, I foresee problems at this point in time. Post-cure, well you'd need to test and check with the manufacturer of the pre- or post-conversion system. My hunch is, to alleviate any liability, tell you no. The scratched drawer face could safely be repainted with the same paint at this time.

Good quality cabinets are not available with a short timeline from anywhere, locally or nationally built. Yeah, the only thing you're getting FAST is big box /off-the-shelf. Think twice about that choice. You're going to live with these cabinets for DECADES. From a function perspective, a well-designed custom kitchen will virtually always be superior because it is tailored to your specific needs by definition. If you can afford it, both in terms of money and time, I’m not sure why you wouldn’t go custom. Semi-custom can be tailored to your needs as well, especially if you're building new ... the difference in "your specific needs" can be only a matter of inches over the entire project. But projects vary. My random thoughts, somewhat contradictory: - I have custom cabinets in my current house. They are original to the house and are very close to 50 years old. In spite of being custom, I don't think they were ever top quality; or maybe it's more truthful to say that standards were lower 50 years ago. Some of the doors are warped, and they are out of style. The moral: Even custom cabinets will wear out and/or go out of style. - My mother remodeled her kitchen roughly 25 years ago -- I remember she was painting the beadboard ceiling blue the night I went over to tell her she was going to be a grandmother, so I'm pretty sure of the timing. Because she was remodeling an old, old house with odd dimensions (and had a chimney running smack-dab through the middle of her kitchen), she spent A FORTUNE on lots of unique sizes ... and she splurged on solid-solid maple and all the bells and whistles. They're absolutely gorgeous, they feel so solid, and they're made for a short person. In spite of my small nephew and niece living in that house now, those cabinets still look brand new. Quality is worthwhile. - I have already decided to go with semi-custom. Why? I'm building new, so I don't have to deal with the oddball dimensions in my Mom's old-old kitchen. I want the solid-solid wood like my Mom's kitchen, but I don't have any unique issues/sizes like she did, and the quality of the building will be just as good. The price difference is significant, and it seems that -- for my simple choices -- the only sacrifice will be the couple inches necessary to combine two cabinets (instead of having an 11' run of cabinets that're brought in in one piece). - Are you the person who wants top-quality and will still be happy once today's styles have changed? Or would you rather spend less today and accept that you'll replace it all in X number of years anyway? - How important are bells and whistles to you? No matter what type of cabinets you choose, simple box cabinets will be cheapest ... drawers will be mid-priced ... and specialty cabinets like spice pull-outs will cost the most. How many "special things" do you plan in your kitchen? Personally, my number is one. One Super Susan in the corner. - Remember that cabinets that are hidden on three sides are the least expensive ... islands, which must be finished on four sides, are the most expensive. - Other people have talked about types of cabinets. Definitely read up on Full overlay, partial overlay, and inset. Definitely consider frameless vs. framed. These things will affect your price. - Consider the size of your cabinets /drawers. Say you have a 6' space to fill ... you could choose two 36" cabinets or three 24" cabinets ... all things being equal, the two wider cabinets will cost less than the three smaller cabinets. - Insist upon the heavy duty hardware.