*Lungworts- Pulmonaria sp. They have a wide range of leaf silvering and flower colors from deep cobalt to purple to pink to white. They only bloom in the spring but put on a spectacular show, have great foliage, and self-seed. *Boxwood- Buxus some stay small, very neat evergreen foliage, variegated forms as well, don't spread tho' *Hebe buxifolia, glaucophylla, pinguifolia sutherlandii, albicans Red Edge- small evergreen leaves, nice mounds, don't spread *Lunaria- Money plant- purple or white flowers, biennial so the seeds sprout in fall when the rains come, bloom the next spring (right now) and then die out over the long dry summer, so they are perfectly adapted for our climate, self-sow, and the seed pods rub off to make the lovely silver dollar dried plant material. *Helleborus orientalis- bloom early spring, wide range of flower colors- burgundy, pink, green, white, double. Self-sow. *Brunnera macrophylla- perennial Forget-Me-Not, self-sows *Species Tulips- T. Little Beauty- magenta; T. praestans unicum- variegated leaves, multiple red flowers; T.eichleri- great grey-green foliage; T. vvedenskyi species- red, or red/orange Tangerine Beauty; T. batalinii Bright Gem *Violet labridorica- dark leaves, purple flowers, self-sows

I'll second Melva's advice on the crepe myrtles and mint. Crepe myrtles look ever so much better to me when they haven't been chopped back. Mint grows nicely here, but don't plant it in the ground as it will spread everywhere! I've had good luck with thyme, sage, oregano, marjoram, mint, and rosemary in pots. I recently put the rosemary in the ground and it's doing fine. The rest don't like full sun in the heat of the summer, at least for me. Maybe I don't water them often enough then? But, if I move them back to where they get afternoon shade, they're happy. I've tried lavender, it did really well in a pot for a couple years and even rooted itself into the ground. Then we had a bad winter and it croaked. The one I tried last year didn't make it through the summer. I'm debating trying again. As for regular plants, I like lantana, salvia greggii (Autumn Sage), Texas Sage/Cenizo, Henry Duehlberg salvia, Mystic Spires salvia, daffodils (some survive our summers better than others, I've had good luck with Ice Follies), gladiolus (although some don't come back), and iris. Oh, and cast-iron plant (aspidistra) is a good one, too. Also "Wandering Jew" (can never remember the "proper name") can be good, I've had good luck with the solid color one with thicker leaves, BUT it will spread quickly and easily and is difficult to get rid of. I've got it surrounded by the house and driveway. If you're willing to put in a bit of time and effort on amending the soil, the Earthkind roses can be easy-care once they're established. They're grown on their own roots and typically don't require pruning unless you just want to, don't need to be sprayed regularly as they're not prone to the mildews and such, and really only need to have their mulch replenished to a 3" depth every year. I also have a number of tropical and semi-tropical plants in pots that move into the greenhouse every winter. They do fine outside under the oak trees during the rest of the year. Good luck and have fun with gardening.

Nothing beats hostas for the shade. I've planted them in late spring, summer and fall, though I've had the best luck transplanting when they are still dormant. Leave the leaves in tact for the winter, it helps winter-protect the crown. Brunnera 'Jack Frost' is a BEAUTIFUL pop in the shade. One of my favorites. I also like Astilbe - don't deadhead the flowers, you can choose from those with green or purplish foliage. I think 'Red Fanal' has the darker, glossy foliage, red blooms. 'Bridal Veil' is supposed to be the nicest of the white flowering..I think this one looks nice paired with white variegated hostas. I second Heucheras, I have purple foliage with my green hostas, a nice contrast. For something taller, Annabelle Hydrangea. Just cut them back 8 inches from the ground in early spring before new growth emerges. Don't fertilize much, if at all, the blooms will get too heavy and flop to the ground. The spent blooms add interest to a fall/winter garden - I leave them in tact. And, cut flowers during the summer months make for nice arrangements in a vase. Bleeding hearts bloom in the spring, and are good around Hostas, the foliage tends to die back in the summer, especially during droughts. Give it plenty of water after it's done blooming to prolong the dieback if you want. The nearby hostas will help cover the empty space of the bleeding hearts later in the season. Have fun!

Unfortunately, there is no single source that addresses this issue completely. There are sites online that discuss low maintenance gardening and even provide lists of suitable plants but any plans available would be very site-specific. I give classes on low maintenance gardening frequently and there are some basic concepts to keep in mind. 1) Right plant, right place. That means selecting plants that appreciate and will thrive in the existing conditions, whether that be the soil quality, water availability or light. And select for appropriate size - plants that will easily outgrow their place require pruning or dividing to keep to the proper scale. 2) The larger a plant grows and the longer it lives, the less routine maintenance it requires. Trees generally require less maintenance than shrubs, shrubs need less maintenance than most perennials and everything requires less maintenance than annuals :-) 3) Evergreen plants or those that hold leaves throughout the year generally require less maintenance than deciduous plants and certainly any herbaceous plants. 4) Consider reducing the amount of lawn you have and replace with hardscaping or low maintenance groundcovers. In summation, reduce the amount of perennials your garden contains and replace with small shrubs or dwarf conifers. Many shrubs offer very colorful foliage and flowers, so the garden continues to offer interest but with much less required attention. Hostas and daylilies are a couple of perennials that require far less maintenance than most others, so good choices to retain. And there are some others that have similar attributes but on the whole, stick with shrubs or other woody plants. Most ornamental grasses and groundcovers also are good choices for reduced maintenance. Select plants that are well-suited for your area and that are not problematic with respect to aggressive spreading or attracting insects or are prone to disease issues. Your local nursery/garden center can help you with this. And mulch regularly. This will help to keep weeds at a minimum, retain soil moisture to reduce watering needs and return nutrients to the soil. If you want some seasonal color pops, annuals planted in a container by your entry or on your deck/patio are easy to attend to. And keep in mind that edible plants - veggies, fruits, berries - tend to be maintenance hogs, so determine how important these are to you to include. And remember that everything requires some degree of maintenance - you just want to limit your efforts. And consider hiring a garden design consultant for an hour or two to help you make this transition on what to keep and what to replace and with what. Well worth the investment.