First, I don't think you should give up hope. Second, if you repotted the plant that was pictured in the opening post, the soil can hardly be blamed for what you take to be the plant's demise, since the plant was in extremely dire straits to begin with and assuredly wouldn't have taken to ANY soil in the sense that it would have bounced back in what amounts to a heartbeat, in plant time. You were right in making sure the soil was moist at or immediately after repotting the PP, but I would agree that in repotting the PT, you might wait a few days before watering. Keep the soil moist, and the plant warm and in good light. Give it a month or 2 to respond. Remember too, that you repotted a severely stressed and declining plant at about the worst part of the growth cycle, so reasonably, patience is the order of the day, along with hope for an eventual good outcome; that, in the stead of expecting an overnight miracle. ;-) Al

> I think the exposed roots coming out of the holes are the problem. I would repot. > there's no need to repot, unless the tips of new growth are pushing against the rim of the pot and have no room to expand. I should slide it out of the pot and see if it's root-bound, I guess. But it was only repotted in the summer, I can't imagine it's full of roots after a winter (not the fastest growing time). > it's normal for old leaves on calathea to yellow in spring, before the new growth pushes out. I hope very much you are right. There is much more new growth being pushed out at the same time now than what was happening in the winter. Pruning old leaves is sort of an issue. I can't help but leave a dry stump. Maybe those will be easier to prune lower if the plant if in my hand with little soil on top (at repotting, in other words). Another Calathea (ornata, in the picture) has a couple leaves drying, but it's not bad. New leaves are also coming out of that one. > i assume you're feeding still. so continue. Yes. Considering increasing the fertilizer dose to all plants now that spring growth is happening. > don't move it away from light ;). it should be getting MORE light come spring, not less. Yeah, it was ok the whole winter under that light, so I think it should be fine. Robebuddy, are you reading all this as well? How is your Calathea doing?

Morning Sovery, As I mentioned above, your Cal needs acclimating since it was summered outdoors. Think about it. When plants are outside, they get fresh, circulating air, and 'depending where one lives,' humidity. Then comes fall..plants are moved in a stuffy, dry house. Plants should be brought inside before heat is turned on. Especially, tropicals. Did I mention, Calathea picta types are very difficult? I have two..one is in a terrarium, the second is on its own. Yours is a picta..sorry don't know which variety. Some Cals are fussier than others. For instance, my C. Snake has brown tips; C. Peacock doesn't. When outdoors, they sat side by side..hauled indoors the same day. Same light, etc. Indirect-bright light is perfect. During summer, west/south windows are way too harsh. This time of year, 'at least here in IL,' s/w exposure wouldn't matter....won't burn leaves. Your east window sounds okay, as long as your Cal isn't 10' away. lol If you're worried about light, why not add artificial? You can do so inexpensively. Hygrometers..lol..Buy a second to compare. lol. We have three. Two are the same type..purchased years ago..accurate temps and humidity. The third was bought 7-yrs ago..it reads inside, outside and green house temp. Every fall I place all 3 side-by-side to compare readings. One may be a degree higher...but I consider 1 degree good enough. :) 55% humidity is great. What about temp? Is the room warm/hot? Cals do not like too much heat. My Cals are in a fairly unheated room. In fact, during cold months, the room gets pretty cold. Sometimes, too cold. Fresh air is important. Do you have a ceiling or rotating fan? If so, can you run it an hour or two a day? As long as air isn't directed on your plants for more than a few seconds at a time. Wish I could be more help...Toni

I can't tell what it is, if it's clear then it's not mealies. But the stuff on the plant looks white, so maybe a better pic would help. I don't think mealies are that bad, actually. While I don't like chemicals, there are systemics that will clear them up fairly quickly. I don't see them very often and I stay on top of that kind of thing. I'll sometimes unpot a plant and spray the whole thing, roots and all, with a fine, hard spray from the garden hose. Have to be sure to get down in the space where the petiole attaches to the stem. But that usually does the trick.