Yikes - i gotta go (have my coat on, I don't know why I checked back after emailing Y about DD's dance class tomorrow). Merillat mentioned sanding sealer that is only used when sanding soft woods - it stiffens the wood fibers so you can sand smoother. Not usually used on oak. Sealcoat is a "sanding sealer" b/c it can be used that way but really I don't want you to sand the veneer much at all. I am telling you to use it (if you want) b/c I found it made the oak a little smoother w/o totally filling in the grain like a grain filler, and it is harder than poly, will make the finish more durable than poly alone w/o putting on lots of thick (multiple thin coats) poly. you thin (and clean) shellac with denatured alcohol. You can let excess dry in container and then throw it out. Rags can be thrown out (in small quantities) when thoroughly dry. Sealed in water you'd have to check with town about hazardous waste (same with leftover stain, paint). That's why I have multiple cans sitting in my garage LOL. Clean the shellac brush by pouring alcohol into clean PB jar, swishing the brush around - you can pour the cloudy shellac into your metal can with lots of water for disposal, or pour it into another container and let it evaporate. Pour more alcohol into jar, swish until clear. then wash brush in mild soap and water, hang bristles down to dry. It may dry a *little* stiff, but you should be able to soften it by flexing bristles with your hand. if they "crack" rather than flex, you've still got shellac in the brush and need to clean with alcohol again. you *can* just stain and apply the polycrylic if you want to, straight out of the can I'd do 2-3 coats (which may end up looking plasticky but you can try wiping off the last coat like I did on my island trim), if you use the wipeon stuff you'll need 6 coats minimum, and you're *supposed* to sand b/t coats to get it to stick so I'm really leary of telling you to sand that much. You can do 1 coat of regular Sealcoat over stain, sand *lightly*, then 2 coats rolled on poly (barely sand b/t coats). That *should* be enough protection - at least until you have kids and they kick their feet against the island LOL. I'll check back after 1 pm.

AnnKH, 'bends but doesn't break', lol. Let's just say, it wasn't a break. More of a sever, that required reconstructive surgery. It was awful. Having said that, it's certainly the exception, but whenever I see people thinking about glass tops I do feel that it's worth a warning as a safety risk. While a table cloth may be more slippery it wouldn't be nearly as dangerous. Hopefully the OP finds a suitable solution. FWIW, we paid about $400 for 3 separate 3/4 inch thick pieces with beveled edges and rounded corners. They were made to cover a coffee table, sofa table and end table. We went to local glass company to have them made.

I’m not a “pro” although maybe I could buy that title but I think the tile in your kitchen is gorgeous and I think “bland” and “generic” are unwarranted and unfair terms to describe your lovely home. I think everyone loves to fawn over “unique” homes that are 30, 40, 50 years old when those homes were just towing the trend lines too when they were built. Every time period has popular, prominent looks, they don’t magically become original 30 years after the fact. Sorry, rant. I’d say pick something you love that’s a little less dramatic and that the fam is happy with and just enjoy! Who cares about the “pros”?

I would get rid of the drapes (roman shades), rug is fine, get a more modern fan, and paint the living room the same color as the kitchen. After that, the world is your oyster! (I love Beth H.'s photos...so in the future, you may want to replace some furniture pieces, etc., but for now, I think just doing those things is a start). BTW, I have an open concept kitchen/dining/living room, and it really improved the look by doing this.