Hackberries have yellow fall color, interesting bark, and will reseed themselves. Sugar maples, as well as red and white oaks do well on well drained sites. Some sugar maples turn yellow/red/orange, others just yellow. Some oaks have beautiful colors, others just brown leaves that hang on. But even that is interesting in the winter when everything else is bare. Mix in some white pine for added winter color. Just north of here in the Wisconsin Dells area you often see white pine growing in the deciduous forest. I don't recommend red, Austrian, or Scotch pine. Too many problems. White spruce is another possibility. Avoid ash for now with the EAB problem. Aspen groves have beautiful yellow fall color and grow fast and will spread in a natural area. American basswood is another native tree with yellow fall color.

Ideally one would move established plantings when they are dormant or just emerging. The time depends on the particular plant, and experts recommend FALL. Right now is a bad time to move daffodils. If they haven't already come up they will soon. Their roots are growing even if the tops haven't emerged. Nonetheless, if they can't stay where they are, it would be better to move them soonest. Before digging up any plant have a new site prepared. While dormant bulbs can be popped into any hole and covered over, already growing bulbs need more space. Dig a hole big enough to accommodate the existing bed and about 6" deep. Now dig up the bulbs you want to move being careful not to damage them with the spade. Discard any that get badly damaged. Keep the bulb clumps together and set them in the new planting hole, spreading any roots. Replace the soil over the bulbs and gently tamp it, then water in well. Use the same general directions in transplanting hostas. The size and depth of the new planting hole will be different, of course. Transplanting established broadleaf shrubs requires removing at least 1/3 of the existing top growth. It is best if the plant is still dormant. If the barberry is a deciduous species, remove 1/3 of the oldest branches to ground level. If it is an evergreen species, remove 1/3 of the overall growth. Now, this is the general guide to pruning barberry, but because you will lose some roots during digging you may need to remove 1/2 or more of existing growth to make up for the root loss. Barberry root systems are described as shallow but wide. You need to start the dig far enough away from the base to preserve feeder roots, then use shovels to cut deeper roots beneath the plant until you can pry it up with some soil, place it on a tarp and drag it to it's new site. Considering that many barberry species get quite large it may well be easier to just chop it down and remove the stump. All transplanted shrubs of any size will need extra care over the following year. Water whenever a dry spell occurs. Watch for insect damage and disease, because a transplanted shrub has been stressed and more likely to be subject to further damage.

With a long property line I would suggest grouping different plantings in areas. Areas wanting complete blockage put a group of 4 or 6 evergreen. Areas with less then deciduous. Some variation with specimens interspersed. When space allows you can layer shorter in front of the taller hedge. You can use a tape measure for spacing and also pay a little more for larger plants (even pots at $29.99 instead of $19.99 isn't much more if you can't afford the B&B price). The Emerald Greens and your spacing looks like, even when mature, they will be just lone monuments along the prop line. Every box store in your area loads up on cheap Emeralds, but that doesn't mean it is the best plant for your use.

Apologies for a somewhat duplicate post. Houzz will not let me edit or comment on a similar post I started. I’m looking for some ideas here. I’ve x’d out the Hostas that have been removed. What is in there now from left to right: Spirea, Hosta, azalea, a few boxwood directly in front of the house , a barberry between the windows and the rounded paved area contains a couple green yellow euonymus, Hostas and a dwarf yew. I’m thinking of moving the evergreen tree to the middle of the windows but am open to suggestions. I also got a couple Penny Mac hydrangeas and I’d love to incorporate at least one somewhere for some color. Where I’m torn is if I should keep low growing stuff from the windows in or add some height in the middle AND at the right side of the photo. Help!!