I feel qualified to comment on this issue, as we had a similar problem occur in our build with respect to the finish carpentry. To make a long story shorter, the trim carpenter did a horrible job - placing way too many nails in the trimwork, many unnecessary holes in our closet walls, and putting on chair rails upside down, etc. The excuse was that since our trimwork was to be painted, all of the nail holes (sometimes over 30 in a 5' piece of trim) could be puttied and covered. But it was so bad, and our painter wasn't happy about having to do all that nail covering work. So we insisted that the trim be replaced where needed and attached properly to the walls. Painted trim is not an excuse for shoddy workmanship. We thought we would encounter some resistance with our builder, and initially, we did, but once they saw how bad it was, they ordered a new trim package and fixed all of the problems, including recutting all of our poorly cut window ledges. We asked that the original trim carpenters not come back to do this, and we are now very happy and very satisfied with the replacement work. If you don't ask, it won't happen. We are not "picky" people, and we do not wish to engage in unnecessary whining and complaining, but consider the fact that you have paid a lot of money for this and that it is not what you asked for. Your builder is responsible for the work of his subcontractors. I hope that you can get the issue resolved. When subcontractors are working with such expensive materials, they need to be careful and professional in carrying out their work. Jan

Is this a glass mosaic tile or a stone? Is the grout a normal mix, or epoxy-based? If it's a normal mix and glass tiles, you can consider using a weak solution of muriatic acid to help dissolve some of the grout. If it's epoxy based, you will have to use a heat gun to soften it - and you're better off just tearing it off and starting over (really hard to get epoxy grout off). Here's what I would do - tear it out & start over. The joints will take so much work to make them look "okay" at this point, you'd probably spend less time in the end if you started over. I say this after the tile guy our GC hired required 3 rounds of re-work to touch up joints in our tub/shower ... and then I still spent a day getting them really right.

The width of the tile joint determines the grout type. Sanded grout holds better in joints, and unsanded is only used as a last resort as it has no body and will shrink and pull away when used in too large joints. Better still is the new grouts with the microfine aggregates that can go into the small joints or large. It isn’t your $8 a bag cheap box store crapola though. If you want to view your job from the viewpoint of industry standards, start here. This is the industry bible, with all of the standards laid out in black and white with diagrams. https://www.tcnatile.com/products-and-services/publications/218-english-publications/188-handbook/957-2018-tcna-handbook-for-ceramic-glass-and-stone-tile-installation.html But. You should have hired an installer who owns a copy and knows all of that. Did you follow these steps when hiring? https://www.ceramictilefoundation.org/homeowners-guide-to-hiring-qualified-tile-installer

No idea what you're asking. Photo?