> You don't have welded on parts falling off and gas lines knocked loose in a stove that was properly shipped. You have a demonstrated ability to weave a fictional account so as to portray NXR as flawless. "...dragged it there behind the truck"? What if the pipe was kinked in China where it was made by a $1/day laborer? Maybe quality control is just something they put on the website for the target audience? What if the internal gas pipe is of such poor quality that it can't handle high gas pressures? Maybe a valve stem was broken & the valve was open though the knob was in the off position. The point is you don't KNOW - you have a theory. It is not rational to put a CLEARLY impacted range into service with explosive gas. Your theory is not sound. > Anybody with half a brain can see [it was a shipping problem]. You've [essentially] repeated this - try to reign in your grandiosity. I'm not trying to belittle you but I'm confident I'm smarter than you IQ-wise, street-wise & even at non-traditional intelligence like social skills. > Should I start listing the HUNDREDS of complaints I am sure I find on most any other stove? So complaints for *other* ranges - the gospel truth. An NXR complaint - clearly EVERYTHING is a SHIPPING problem. "They are clearly mistaken no matter what that is for sure."-S.Allen, May31. > good for you, you managed probably after hours of looking to come up with 2 more complaints which I have never seen and I looked for months when looking at this stove and a few others. I have a honed ability to craft&sift through SERPs - it didn't take hours. I'm not that invested. > Get a life. You are nothing but a FA with a serious problem. Oh dear - nunya-speak - a what? I do hope this is "masked vulgarity" addressed in the TOS.

Non-asbestos (U.S.) mill board heat insulation is the best to use: Instructions Use millboard any place which will be subject to extreme heat. Most of it is capable of withstanding temperatures of 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit or more. It can block heat, withstand heat of substances such as molten metal, and can seal off extremely hot areas. It is easy to cut, punch with a die cutter or even mold into shapes --- although it is used around furnaces and fireplaces in its rigid form. Choose a millboard specifically for your project. Some is made with kaolin, a silica material, or similar form of clay. Some types use a form of cellulose, others ceramic materials. Some are composed of cement fibers. The temperature rating will vary with the fiber content and some millboards use a combination of fiber types. The composition also will affect the ease of cutting and installation. Asbestos millboard is still made and used in some parts of the world and has some special industrial applications in America. Cut your millboard with a saw, although many special situations use a die-cut, in which a shape is stamped out of the millboard; this would be done to line a rotary kiln or industrial boiler or to make gaskets. If you are using a cement-based millboard for exterior wall cladding, you will install it much like wood siding. You can use drywall screws in interior walls or ceilings. Read more : http://www.ehow.com/how_7707801_do-use-rigid-millboard-insulation.html

Using a temperature probe I measured to door temp to be around 135 and the face of the range (where the knobs are) was 165 degrees. The inner top of the door was 210. I called Wolf and they told me to have a service tech come out and check the door gasket. Has anyone with this problem ever had it fixed?

“I am aware of the blue chipping...I honestly hadnt decided whether or not I was concerned with it...some places said it was aesthetic, someone also mentioned that it had to do with things contacting the blue enamel, or with oven cleaning cycles.” This sounds like answers from Wolf. They do try to say it is cosmetic when you first contact them. Enamel chipping is glass shards and one poster here was injured plus who wants that blowing around with the convection fan. Wolf does try to blame the consumer. “ You must have put something on it.” Me -No, I followed the instructions given perfectly. Some Wolf ovens have failed without using self clean, but even if you did use it, it is an advertised feature, included in the instruction manual that you paid for. I have heard of dealers advising not to use self clean. I’ve had several inexpensive ovens that self cleaned with no issues. As far as how you use your oven, it would seem that you would be about as well off with gas as a fuel. Gas ovens tend to brown better so would be good for cookies and roasting. The only thing that gas might not be as good would be cakes. If you have recipes that work with gas already than, that might work well too. You would miss some of the control you have with some electric ovens, like direction of heat or is there some other feature? You did not mention anything about burners or griddles. There used to be a poster here that had DCS maybe about the same age as Bruce’s. I know they made some changes in the burner after that. “According to Wolf it is NOT required to have the hood 6” wider than the range. ” “I asked at a local major wolf dealer and he said that some people run larger hoods but said 95% of their pro ranges are matched with same-size hoods.” They also sell down draft ventilation. Just because they do that 95% of the time, doesn’t mean you should. I would independently educate yourself about all of these issues. People who are selling, are often motivated by commissions and bonuses. Adequate ventilation can be very expensive and if you lose a sale because someone can’t or doesn’t want to pay for ventilation well, you can see the motivation. I could tell you some real whoppers I was told while shopping for appliances. There is a poster here, Kaseki, who is an expert in ventilation. This is just one post in which they participated. Some codes also require make up air. https://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/5161173/hood-faq#n=23