No Problem! 1. The #s were for my notes locating holes. Match the holes needed in your situation if you use this. 2. The Eng is a standard flat mount vs what the pic is showing. 3. I enjoy helping my neighbors. The mowerâÂÂs owner cuts most of the yards a street over and has helped me with many cords of wood. I w/n be rehabbing now if I had called him vs not wanting to bother his work schedule. Plus, he alerts me when he is cutting/trimming or others are or have. 4. The Red Oak is new stock, a fast growing tree per ours and all the other providing wood since 07. PS. Sunday or Monday will tell the story on over working during our 80 degrees in North, TX.

Something bad happened that actually was a very, very good thing... After following breiaj's instructions to the letter, two of the floor tiles in the bathroom popped up a couple of days later and wouldn't stay stuck. When I pulled them up the rest of the way, I found a leak! If it hadn't been for those tiles unsticking, we wouldn't have found that leak until it did a LOT more damage - like made a big ole mess of the kitchen ceiling. So here's one way in which vinyl tile might actually be BETTER than sheet! A few notes WRT breiaj's instructions... I admit to dropping back to $3.99 paintbrushes because they became unworkable so quickly - the glue would start to dry up in the bristles while we were working and it would become more like a paddle than a brush! We didn't have any problems with bristle loss. 2" flat-ended paintbrushes were just the right size, a wider brush seemed like it would save time but was really more awkward to work with, especially with cut pieces. Don't bother wearing rubber gloves in hopes of keeping your hands clean, they stick to the tile's adhesive and to the adhesive you're spreading on and just generally irritate the crap out of you. :-) The adhesive - Armstrong's anyway - is kind of hard on your hands though, and contrary to the label does not wash off with soap and water! We ended up using a "painter's wipes" product we had on hand to clean up our hands about every hour because we would get too sticky to work effectively, and our fingertips were pretty raw and sore afterward. Even though it costs a bit more it's a lot easier to work with the smaller containers of adhesive using this brush-on method, because the bucket gunks up something awful. If you're laying more than about 100 square feet, seriously consider coughing up for the vinyl tile cutter (homedepot.com has one for about $50, or you can rent a superduper heavy-duty one for about the same for a weekend)... scoring and snapping with a utility knife sucks after a while, it's slow and hard on your hands. Make sure you have a comfortable utility knife no matter what though, and a LOT of blades. Stanley makes a really nice knife in their FatMax line, with a rubber-cushioned handle. A jamb or undercut saw ($15) makes dealing with those door jambs SO much easier than trying to cut the tile around them! We removed the baseboards; we were going to replace them with vinyl cove but the damn stuff just would not cooperate so we patched the baseboards with wood filler galore and put them back, and it looked SO much neater than butting the tiles up to the baseboards. deeje, I've checked around with several manufacturers of vinyl tile and the biggest deal WRT moisture is not to slop around too much water when you mop - contrary to popular belief, you don't need a gallon bucket full of near-boiling water and some vile chemical to get a floor clean! Try a well-squeezed-out sponge or terrycloth/microfiber mop instead of a sopping string or rag mop instead. Those microfiber cleaning cloths fit on Swiffer handles really well, if like me you are too cheap to buy the Swiffer cloths. :-) ctaylors6, the instructions in the Cryntel box agree with the Lowes guy - wash well-secured vinyl very well, rinse well, allow to dry thoroughly. I'd use something like TSP that would destroy any gloss on the existing floor. Our vinyl was trashed so we couldn't leave it, so I can't speak to the adhesive method on top of vinyl. We still haven't gotten the kitchen floor laid down yet. We had to tear out some of the subfloor and replace it, and then do a lot of leveling and sanding on the rest, got diverted with a day of electrical work, and to top it all off DH has been sick as a dog. :-( Cross your fingers for this weekend!

I bought my 1950's Floyd Wells 30" for $60 on CL. I cleaned the heck out of it, we adjusted the orafices so we could use it on propane and it's been cooking and baking in our kitchen for a year now. Bought it off of CL, had to drive 2 hours each way for it, but it's darn difficult to find a 30" vintage range so it was worth the trip. Mine is VERY basic, no frills, match lit oven and pilot for the burners. I'd have LOVED a Tappan Doughboy (found one even, for $150) with the chrome lined oven and lit up burner rings, but I couldn't go bigger then 30",.

Thank you everyone for your ideas and tips!! Our house is on the market now, and the bathroom looks heaps better! We ended up removing all the tile and vinyl tiles from the wall, repairing the drywall, and painting everything. I painted the vanity a darker color to make the ugly fixtures brighter. We were going to replace the vanity light but found that whoever installed the last one had just cut a huge hole in the wall for the wiring and there's nothing to mount a light to unless it's a wide Hollywood light (my biggest disappointment). We ended up leaving the floor due to lack of time, but recaulked everything and added a shower curtain that pulls in all the colors in the bathroom. I'm really pleased with what we did with limited budget and limited time. Thanks for your ideas!! The filtered photo is the listing photo, the unfiltered photo is mine.