They came back….
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Mischievous Magpie (CO 5b)
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turned house water off and toilet having issues since it came back on
Comments (5)Okay...it looks like he replaced the old mechanism (the type I was describing with a float ball) with a newer model, which is a good thing, and that you also have a new flapper (the red thing). The height of that gray and black portion of the valve can be adjusted to get the water to come up to the correct level in the tank, and it's possible your husband did not do that correctly when he installed it. Do you see that black plastic vertical rod that connects the top of the valve to the black and gray part that floats? If you rotate that, it should adjust the position of the float up and down. You will likely want that floating part to be positioned lower, which you can do by trial and error. Here's is how to do it: turn the water back on and let the tank fill and see where the water stops in relation to the water line. If it is higher than the water line, turn the top of the rod a couple of turns (probably counterclockwise) so that the float goes deeper into the water. Then flush again and see where the water rises to. It may take a couple of these adjustments to get it to stop right at the water line. After you do that, post back and tell me what's happening and whether it's still hissing or running. Then I will give you some more advice. (I should note that if you can't get the water to the correct height with the adjustment rod, or you turn it as far as you can and it won't go any further, there is another adjustment that can be made to lower the entire valve, which also may not have been done right when it was installed. This is a bit harder to do and you may want to task your husband-plumber with this when he returns.) Below is a link to a 6 minute video of how these valves are installed and adjusted. Most of it shows how to make this installation from scratch, which has already been done, but watching this will give you a good idea of how everything works and how the adjustments are done: Toilet Valve replacement As for the water level in the bowl, if it is not a problem with any of the other toilets, then it is unlikely to be a root problem. It's either: 1) that this is the way this old toilet works now or was designed to work originally, or 2) that there is some type of partial clog nearby that only involves this toilet. (I once had a problem like that with a toilet that previously had been efficient and it turned out someone had flushed a popsicle stick down the toilet and it was partially blocking the outlet.)...See MoreHostas came back
Comments (6)They are really gorgeous looking! You must be so happy with them - love the Christmas Tree hosta! Very nice photos, Dedez! High Society has stunning colour - sure hope mine looks that good!...See MoreWent for Perlite... Came back with 6 plants.
Comments (14)That has happened to all of us. But you know what? Sometimes you end up buying your very favorite plants that way. To me, what's worse is when you DO keep the promise to yourself not to buy a single thing….then, 6 or 8 months later you're saying, "I wish I had bought that beautiful Sans Whitney when I saw it. I haven't seen another one that good since. Why didn't I buy it???" Regret -- it's even worse than guilt when it comes to plants!...See MoreSoil test came back with very low Phosphorus. What should I do next?
Comments (4)That's drastic. Overly drastic. Not to mention something you shouldn't do at once because P is very slow to perk down anyway, and creating a very high P zone at the top of the soil is a bad idea (it'll create a zone where the roots are somewhat blocked from absorbing other nutrients that P antagonizes). Fortunately, due to the pH issue I mention below, this problem never really materializes easily in your soil. I never recommend slamming a soil all at once anyway. It creates the aforementioned zones, which aren't great for the plants, and the microbes in the soil aren't thrilled about it either. Given that your pH is quite high as well, I'd also set your optimal P levels rather high to begin with; P availability is extremely limited at high pH. So personally? I'd target the high range. First off, I'm going to assume that Texas A&M soil tests are OK, I have no direct experience with them (I read Logan for the most part). No, seriously, you'd be surprised and head-to-head test comparisons with known samples varied widely between labs. My mentor used to have a cat about this. Fortunately, P levels are pretty flexible if high and P has to be sky-high to be a major issue. You can use triple superphosphate if you like. You can also use any good starter fertilizer and feed the lawn at the same time--just make sure the first and second numbers are much larger than the third, although potassium isn't one of those nutrients one has to be overly concerned about, either (and if you look at the magnitudes on the graph, we're moving from 4 to about 60 on P, which would move you from 312 to 370 or so on K...not really a noticeable change if we used a high-K fertilizer as well). Personally, I'd go with the starter. It's cheaper overall, will serve two purposes at once, and can be tossed in your spreader and used like any other fertilizer so the hassle quotient is so much lower. Just look for something like 20-27-5 (Scott's brand is around that, but I wouldn't pay for Scott's, any off brand is just as good) so you get a good dose of N (20) and P (27) without paying for K (5) that you don't really require. But if it turns out to be something like (for example) 15-25-15, that's just fine, too. N's good, P's high, and K isn't outrageous. Follow the bag settings. But ask here if you have any questions whatsoever! Zoysia likes between 2 to 4 pounds of nitrogen over the growing season, tapped out pretty regularly when it's warm like any other warm-season grass. So once it's fully back, feed it nicely at bag rate, which should target around 0.8 pounds N (most starter fertilizers do). Then about a quarter way through the season, do it again. At the halfway point, do it again. At the three-quarters point, do it for the last time. You're done. You just applied 2.4 pounds of N, and about 3 pounds of phosphoric acid equivalent (about 0.85 pounds elemental P equivalent) for most starters (but again, let us know the bag rates and we'll translate that). You'll want to re-test next year to see how it's coming along (probably not that well, given the perk-down time on P) and keep going, but over a couple-three years, it'll be along. This is not a fast process. Now, then. I note that none of the minor elements were tested but that you seem good on all other major elements (congrats on that, BTW). Higher-pH soils frequently bind up iron something fierce, so if your zoysia seems light green and disappointing, or, worse, yellow, iron might be to blame. Just something to keep in mind....See Moreoursteelers 8B PNW
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