Peach tree corkscrew damage from wind...will it survive?
allenwrench
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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
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I need my peaches to survive this year....please help before it's
Comments (14)Generally you start to spray after the fruit has set on the tree...once the little petals on what were the flowers start to fall off (petal fall)... a spray (pesticides) for plum curculio that are very active in the spring looking to make a little slit in your peaches to lay their eggs, which will grow into larvae, eating your fruit from the inside out as they grow bigger as the season progresses (your fruit will most likely fall off early or rot). When we talk pesticides, we usually talk about 4 types (mainly)...be it neonicotinoids, carbamates (Sevin), pyrethrins (i use these) and organophosphates (generally limited in use these days---phosmet)... What you have to figure is what your pest pressures are, when they are active (a growing degree chart helps here) and what you want to spray to limit the damage from these pests. In my growing area here in Wisconsin the season starts with heavy pressure from plum curculio (hits everything, some more then others...lots of damage if left unsprayed)....then it moves to Rose Chafers (a beetle that feeds on foilage and fruit), then its the Japanese Beetles (same as chafers, except even worse)... You also have to watch for borers (peach trees) and of course birds and squirrels...and maybe some bigger animals... So i spray early and just continue coverage until I think PC is done...then i limit my sprays......See MoreReport on winter damage - peach
Comments (24)I think a lot of it has to do with how much our temperatures can swing compared to other growing regions. I have always read how hardiness increases as the temperature decreases slowly. If it starts to warm up then the trees start to lose hardiness. On Jan 3rd I was 66f, then on the 6th we bottomed out at -12f. On Feb 6th we had -15f, but it had been over a week since we saw 50's. I think the freeze in Jan probably hurt more than the one in feb. Most places don't get swings like that. The guys in WI might get -20f without seeing too much damage, but it was probably a couple of weeks of 0-10 highs before that, and after it for that matter. My reliance and redhaven (20 trees) are either froze out completely, or later and not swelling yet. I have one Q-1-8 that has bud swell now. I haven't checked at the orchard further north. There was still snow on the ground there yesterday, so I doubt they are doing anything there yet....See MoreMichigan peach tree cold damage
Comments (9)Frank: Both my reliance peaches are leafing out so poorly after this winter that I am cutting them down. One was 8 years old and the other 9 years old. I will start over. The odd thing is that I sell fruit trees at the nursery I work at. Some clients bought Reliance peaches and have them situated close to Lake Michigan (Milwaukee area) and came thru great. Their flowered well. Another client bought one from me 3 years ago and is near where I grow mine and his flowered well. Mine are as good as dead. Did age of tree have anything to do with it? Not sure. Another client bought a Contender peach from me two years ago and got a nice crop last September. This year his tree is dead. I presume some sort of micro-climate or somewhat sheltered areas are the explanation as to why some peach trees lived yet others died around here. My blackgold sweet cherry looked ok when I pruned in March. The flower buds never opened this spring but it leafed out nice. I thought I was lucky as at least the tree survived. Two nights ago I checked on my orchard and found most of the leaves wilting on the cherry and the bark on the branches shriveling up. Cambium no longer green. Delayed winter injury too?...See MoreDamage Peach tree limbs, advice needed
Comments (2)It is a standard old-fashioned commercial grower technique to train scaffold branches vertical enough (in an open center) that you can tie a single rope around them and stop this kind of breakage. Most of us use crutches until we have peaches trained to a real strong structure even when fruit is adequately thinned. I now train peach trees very often to a central leader (lots of summer pruning to keep upper branches short) so I can tie lower branches upward with string attached high up on the leader. Not just so they don't break but to keep them above the deer. This shape also works well for making a tree with 4' of trunk before first branches so coon and squirrel control can be applied to trunk....See MoreFrozeBudd_z3/4
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