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Fruit & Orchards Trees Going Green

Peach tree corkscrew damage from wind...will it survive?

2 months ago

I don't think things looks good. Will it survive?

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Comments (4)

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
2 months ago
it might.. if you can quite peeling back the bark ...

the issue is the cambium layer ... its the vascular system of any plant... it carries water up from the roots.. and energy from photosynthesis back down to store int eh roots ...

as long as a good amount of that process remains intact ...then the plant should survive ..

you seams are vertical.. rather that horizontally.. so one might suspect that the system is rather intact ..

tree time is counted in decades ... if it were mine.. i would leave it alone.. and watch what happens.. and see if it dies in the next year or 3 .. and keep us posted... never seen anything like this ..

what i might worry about.. is that there is actual interior structural damage to the tree.. that will cause bigger problems in the long run ... if i run with the vascular analogy.. then i may as well say here.. if it has any broken bones that we cant see under the bark ...

anyway... just see what happens as the heat of summer builds.. august usually tells us.. when you have interruption in water movement thru plants ..

could we see the whole tree... and what are all those broken branches from.. and where are you.. big city name ... we had some bad storms roll thru MI the other night ...

do keep us posted...

ken

ps: and no.. i dont recommend you do anything about it.. ANYTHING you or i dream up.. is contrary to nature ... and in the long run... probably would create more problems than solve ...
allenwrench
Original Author
2 months ago
OK, thanks. I was going to ask if the area should be wrapped.
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If the branch was totally severed, it probably will not work. If it still had a partial connection of bark and wood, it may "take," however, this branch will always be severely compromised in terms of strength, etc., It would probably be the first to go some day in a storm, or if it had a crop of peaches, it probably couldn't support the weight. So, if it does manage to survive, I would make some sort of a prop or support for it, one which can be adjusted as the tree grows. As far as how to do this -- well, pretty much what you did. I've done it before -- spray the surfaces with pure distilled water, dust with a fungicide, align as precisely as possible, and wrap tightly with some sort of tape -- I used black electrical tape with white surgical tape over the top to avoid overheating from the sun. It can work sometimes, depending upon how compromised the vascular connections of the branch are. You will know right away, probably within a few hours, if this is viable at all -- if it wilts right away, or at most within a day, and doesn't perk up again overnight, it's a goner. If it doesn't wilt, or just wilts a bit and perks up with nighttime or with rain or misting from the hose, it may have enough vascular connection to be viable. OK, all of that being said, frankly, the tree is probably better off just having the compromised branch removed, the wound pruned up and treated with fungicide and allowed to heal over. Dennis Michigan
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Harvestman: You are correct that I usually advise more rather than less thinning. This is based on my concept of what the back yard fruit grower usually wants -- quality over quantity. I would rather have a dozen large, beautiful fruits than a basket full of culls. Spacing at a foot apart may be a little exaggerated, but not by much. All of the 3 varieties I grow, Chojuro, Nijiseiki, and Shinseiki, will become quite large with adequate thinning, with Chojuro the largest. You are also right that I try (not always successfully) to keep my advice simple because eyes glaze over when it is too complex. The main problem that answermen have to overcome here is the lack of specificity and detail in the questions. One-liner questions are often followed by multiple paragraphs of answers, trying to guess at all the possible origins of problems with very little to go on in the way of facts. In this case, the Catlady does provide some facts, and since she describes her tree as in the 2nd year of fruiting I would tend to err on the side of more rather than less thinning. It would be easy to break the branches on a very young tree, regardless of some flexibility in the branches. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA
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FrozeBudd_z3/4
2 months ago
last modified: 2 months ago
I would snuggly wrap the entire trunk from where the crack begins to up above it using a wide tie down strap, leave on for several months and all "should be" nicely healed, if the tie begins at all cutting into the trunk, loosen it up a bit! Leaving the crack as is and healing will be long drawn out with the possibility of a good deal of the lifted bark being lost and providing cozy space for insects to and rot to take up. Longevity of the tree will depend the healing secured and also if any major amount of damage has been done to the heart wood, can't hurt though to give it a go and possibly yet the tree many have some productive years ahead!
BillMN-z-2-3-4
2 months ago
Yes, think of it as you would a large graft wound. Wrap it air tight with something like saran wrap so it doesn't dry out.

Another storm might do it in so staking may be in order. It might fail but that's just part of gardening, right? ;-)

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