No herbicides - pre-m nor post-m - right now. Deal with the weeds. It was your implied contract when deciding to sow seeds. There will be plenty of time later. Plus, the longer the grass is allowed to grow and tiller, the less incidents of weeds you'll have. It's best to stay off the grass as much as possible, but right now is time to mow. Two inches in a great height for the first mowing to promote tillering. Cut off 1/3. Let it grow to 3 inches and remove 1/3. Allow it to grow to 4 inches, and cut it down to 3 inches. Maintain it there. If yours is a low growing variety, then maintain at 2-2.5 inches. When you're able to use herbicides, their labels will tell you when application is allowed after seeding. Normally, they say not to apply until after the grass has been mowed 3 or 4 times. Read the labels of whatever you are considering to know for certain. Besides that, there is no point in using pre-m to prevent crabgrass by that time. None will be germinating. If you have a Poa problem, pre-m can be applied in the fall for that. I know pre or post emergent chemicals will slow the grass growth. But it seems like standing still all over the place on the little Tall Fescue seedlings in order to pull weeds isn't good either. There is nothing you want to consider that might slow grass growth. I know it is difficult to have to look at the weeds, but the grass being allowed to grow healthy, tiller well, and maturing into its own ability to crowd weeds is much more important. Or, you will deal with a weeds problem forever. Patience is the key word when establishing a new lawn. Exercise patience and you won't regret it later.

15 yard penalty for not explaining the extent of the issue up front. I know you tried but really, words cannot convey what a few pictures can. Start with water and fertilizer. The point of this approach is to get a healthy stand of weeds and grass as fast as practical. Then kill the weeds. Some weeds will not take up the Weed-B-Gone unless they are healthy. More on the Weed-B-Gone below. Overdo the organic fertilizer. Have you read the Organic Lawn Care FAQ over on the Organic Gardening forum? I would start with 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet of soybean meal or alfalfa pellets. Repeat in 3 weeks. Watering is your critical issue. That soil does not look like it is going to absorb quickly without runoff. That means a lot of light watering with lots of pauses in between. Start by misting the soil and moving fast to another place. Eventually work your way back to the starting spot and water a little longer. Or you might try using a soaker hose in the places that are small and hard to get to. I have a killer soaker hose approach for you. Stretch the soaker out so that it is at least 18 inches away from itself. That means no coiling on top of itself. Just run it back and forth leaving 18 inches between the 'rows.' Try to keep the hose at parallel contours so that it does not have a low spot. Then turn on the faucet to a trickle. A trickle at the faucet means 1 cup per minute. I realize this is barely a leak and you have a long hose but this method will startle you as to the effectiveness. Leave that faucet running for a full week, day and night. At the end of a week if you have not covered the entire lawn with soaker hose, then move it over 18 inches and start again. When you finish covering the entire yard with the soaker, start again back at the beginning. By the way, this soaker hose does NOT take the place of regular watering. What it does is soften your soil so that it will absorb moisture quickly. The point of this is to get everything (weeds and all) growing and healthy. Some of the weeds will die out quickly because they cannot tolerate regular moisture or fertilizer. The rest will become healthy enough to die quickly when you hit it with the Weed-G-Gone. To summarize what I am saying: cultivate your weeds with the best lawn care practices (listed way above). Do this for six weeks or so. Then get some Weed-B-Gone with clover killer. Instead of a hand spray, get the one the connects to you hose. You can cover the entire yard in a few minutes. In fact it is so easy and fast you have to be careful not to overdo it. Some of the weeds will die seemingly overnight. Others will require another dose in a week. What you will be left with is grass and grassy weeds. I will not go so far as to say you will be out of the woods at that point, but it will be much easier to evaluate. My fear is you have some creeping bentgrass in there. That is a tenacious plant. It can be a nice...

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Did you roll the seed down? Did you water 3x per day for 3 weeks while the seed was fresh on the ground? Where do you live? What kind of seed did you use?