Red bugs with black and yellow stripes on flower leaves
RC_South Michigan Zone 6
last year
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RC_South Michigan Zone 6
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HELP! Black stem, yellow leaves, white fuzz
Comments (10)If you want to try again, do you have Trader Joe's where you are? Their orchids are super and not expensive. The only catch is that most of the time they are planted in spaghnum moss, which is a tricky growing medium. Too wet. Check to be sure the orchid has viable roots (you can lift it out of it's ornamental pot and easily see the roots through the clear plastic) The orchids at least are in pots with slits already, though they are temporary (inserted in other more stable pots. Also some roots above the "soil" line are good, as they are usually in great shape. What you do, is get one you like (phalaenopsis is a really good choice as they are pretty tough), and be prepared with a pot slightly bigger than the one they sell the plant in and medium orchid bark. do not hesitate to repot it immediately. Like the moment you get home. You can cut the plastic pot off with scissors, two cuts opposing each other. Make a nice BIG mess carefully extracting the spaghnum, starting in the middle where the roots are likely dead. Be careful of the roots, only removing the rotten ones. If it smells bad, be sure to dust with Rootone, otherwise not really necessary, though I usually do it. Hold the plant suspended over the new pot in the right position with one hand, and gradually pour in the bark with your other. Give the pot a shake or knock periodically to get the bark to settle amongst the roots. Water once in your kitchen sink, set it in a tray or on a plate in moderate light, then don't water for a couple weeks. meanwhile, it shouldn't even blink unless something was wrong with it to start. My feeling, and others might disagree, is that it is more risky to leave the plant in the soggy spaghnum than to repot immediately. As for your one that is dying, you can see water in the bottom of the pot, so for some reason it didn't really drain. Orchids REALLY need good drainage. Good luck next time around! Janine...See MoreMoved Citrus outdoors -- now covered with bugs & leaves yellowing
Comments (10)Hi Limeinqueens. I am close to you in NJ if you are in Queens NY. It will do better outside in the long run. I am battling scale right now myself. We had such a long cold cloudy spring until now that my trees were not growing either, but during these last few hot sunny days they have really taken off. New growth is bursting out all over and many are blooming again. I have more than 40 trees and only the Owari Satsuma is still just sitting there inactive although it looks healthy. Several of my trees leaves got yellowish and spotty, but I think that was because they had a hard time absorbing fertilizer nutrients while it was cooler. Also, we just had weeks of cloudy weather here; no actual rain but it always looked threatening. Just days and days of clouds and hardly any sun. Now that it is sunny and hot for a few days and we have had one rainstorm the trees have really taken off. I have the problem with the ants farming the scale and some aphids, but I have been trying to get rid of them with water sprays, soap sprays, alcohol, and ultrafine horticulture oil, and fish emulsion. Usually I can just hook my miracle grow fertilizer attachment to my garden hose, fill it with fish emulsion (if you don't mind the smell) and just give them and all the bushes and hedges in the yard a good spray and it clears them all up. Not this year though; they are much more persistent. I think I have to find something that will get rid of the ants. Usually they are the little ones, but this year it seems to be much larger ants and nothing phases them. I have been cleaning my trees leaf by leaf and it can be very time consuming. Unfortunately I still have those pesky ants farming the scale mainly, but the trees are growing so fast I think they are better outside. Last evening I sprayed everything with Ulrafine or maybe it is called UltraPure hoticultural oil. Don't spray oils when it is hot or sunny or you will burn your plants. If you spray in the evening the oil will dissapate by morning and your plants will be safe if it is a sunny day. I have started to add Pro-Tekt, a Dyna-Gro product, which is supposed to improve heat and drought tolerance, increase resistance to environmental stress, and enhance growth for stronger, hardier plants. If your plants are healthy they can take care of disease and bugs pretty well by themselves. I have used it on my orchid collection for several years and I feel that the plants were more resistant to mealy bug and scale all winter when I used it during the summer. Nothing scientific about my experience, just my observation. I forget to use it last summer and then I seemed to have a buggy winter so I just started using it again. I mix it in with the Foliage Pro, but you can't mix them together or you get a precipitate. I mix the Foliage Pro with water and then add the Pro-Tekt and it is fine, just don't mix the two concentrates together first and then add water, or you will see the precipitate and it will not mix correctly. It says it on the label of the Pro -Tekt, but you might not see it. Don't get discouraged. Your tree will be taking off soon now. Don't forget to fertilize regularly. I think you have a Meyer Lemon from reading your past posts. You may have to feed it a little more than other citrus, I think because it is continuously blooming and setting fruit. Make sure your fertilizer contains the micronutients. Foliage Pro does. Many do not, and that might be why your tree is yellowing. But I think it is probably the results of the colder weather, cloudy skies, and it may just be the older leaves being drained of food as it is about to go into a period of rapid growth. I notice that happens with some of mine. Some citrus seem to be heavier feeds than others. Good luck with your tree and I hope you will soon be enjoying beautiful rapid growth and fragrant blooms. Cory...See MoreFolded leaves with little black bugs inside
Comments (12)Make sure treatment selected is in scale with degree of "problem". Yes, thrips-at least those that live mostly within flowers-are notoriously hard to manage, yet even on this tropical plant, it may well be very late in growing season-if such exist wherever this is-and such damage is utterly to be expected. That's my angle.....is this a worthy attempt at pest control-learning this plant is out-doors makes it less likely in my opinion, since so many more natural enemies of things like thrips also exist out-doors-or is this n ill-advised attempt at killing an insect that's already moved on or is in an area where sprays cannot reach? Maybe not, maybe the whole thing should be pretty much evergreen and these things are indeed getting the best of it. I just alway advise putting maximal energy and effort in the Id'ing and learning-about of any given pest, before reaching for any control regimen....See MoreHelp! Peace Lily yellow leaves with black spots (including pictures)
Comments (2)Why not post a few more pictures including one of the soil and one of the whole plant, and tell us how you water and what kind of light the plant gets? I suggest you find out exactly what's wrong before doing anything else. Fortunately there are a lot of people here who have lots of experience raising all sorts of plants and dealing with just about any nasty thing that can harm them. I have a few guesses, but a little more information will help folks figure out what's going on and the best way to treat it. Fungus gnats live in the soil, so you have to do something to the soil to get rid of them. I treat them by periodically getting all of my plants to dry out at the same time, because they can't survive without wet soil. I've heard of people getting good results by dissolving part of a mosquito dunk in water and then watering lightly with it. I'm sure someone will pop in and give you some details. Often, the kind of wilting and yellowing leaves I see in your picture are signs of watering issues, and usually it's overwatering. Many people don't believe it's possible, but watering while the soil at the bottom of the pot is still wet keeps the rootlets that carry water to the plant from breathing and ends up killing them, making it look like the plant is thirsty when the problem is drowned roots. I can tell my plants are starting to get dry from their weight, but I check the soil moisture daily with a sharpened wooden dowel (just switched from a cheap moisture meter) stuck all the way to the bottom of the pot, and don't water until the first time the tip feels dry. At that point there's still moisture in the soil, but if I wait any longer the plant will wilt. At that point I water thoroughly until a lot of water has drained from the bottom of the pot and let the pot drain thoroughly. There are ways of helping this along, but we can get to that later. Best of luck!...See MoreRC_South Michigan Zone 6
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