Raspberry Bush transplant in shock

last year

last modified: last year

Yesterday we were given a very big and healthy looking raspberry bush. Its owners had other plans for its location and wanted it gone right away. We knew it was not good timing for transplant. When we dug it up most of the soil fell off because it was dry. We took the plant home and planted it immediately and watered it in very well. Gave it more water this morning and also put up a sun umbrella because the old location was between two houses, not very sunny, maybe 2 - 3 h sun a day max. Our only place that was available is in full sun most of the day. And today was the hottest day so far of this season, 34 degrees. I was gone for the day and hubby did not think of re-adjusting the umbrella, although I suspect that this poor plant was going to be stressed no matter what. Now it is drooping badly....no surprise.

I am pretty sure we need to cut it back, but how much ? Can I leave some parts so we have still some fruit this year? We are in zone 5, Ontario

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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

last year

last modified: last year

Do not cut it back. Keep watering copiously and keep shading. It is not a surprise that a big leafy plant is drooping after being moved. At present it is effectively like a cut flower in a vase until the roots start working again. It needs lots of water.

A tip. If you move anything in the future. Water thoroughly before moving, as well as after.

Comments (12)

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
last year
crikey..

you know you stressed the heck out of it ... and yet you are mystified it is stressed to kingdom come..

and your only thought is severe surgery ...

crikey .. oooo the doubel crikey.. lol .. water it properly.. and leave it alone otherwise..

and for future reference.. keep in mind.. many rasps have biennial canes ... so even it it fails.. new shoots ought to come.. and if it happens to be a very quality rasp... you might get a fall harvest ...

free plants are great.. but you know what happens when timing isnt great.. so be it.. its was still free ... eh??

ken
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Nico: In your climate, which is much like mine in terms of temperatures, you can transplant dormant raspberries (and most other things) throughout the entire winter and spring. The only thing that would prevent you from transplanting would be frozen soil, and I expect you rarely see that. There may, in fact, be some advantages to transplanting earlier rather than later. When you dig up the plants, you should see developing underground shoots that will become next year's canes. Take good care of them. You can remove the old canes from the previous season completely. If there are any obviously dead areas in the root systems, that do not show shoots, you can prune those off as well. By transplanting now, you allow the plants to accommodate and begin growing in early spring. It is a little misleading to call raspberry plants two or three years old, since these plants regenerate new canes every year. The original root systems may be that old, but they regenerate too in a healthy planting. Healthy red raspberries also send out underground stolons that result in spreading of the plants -- often as far away as 2-3 feet from the originals in rich, soft soil. Care after planting consists of covering with a good layer of organic mulch, which should be renewed every year for best health and production. Ground leaves, compost, sawdust, stable manure etc. are all good, and should be placed on the surface over and around the plants. The new canes will find their way up through it. Other than that, they will take care of themselves. Don Yellman, Great Falls, VA
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party_music50
last year
Do as floral says and just keep watering it....
doriswk thanked party_music50
PRO
The Logician LLC
last year
Doubly difficult because raspberries do not like to have wet roots long-term. Cut back on water at the first sign of leaf recovery. Goal is to have plant survive to future years and new canes. Fruit this year is unlikely.
doriswk
Original Author
last year
last modified: last year
Luckily we had some overnight rain followed by a cloudy day. So now the leaves on the shorter two canes are looking O.K., but some bundles of leaves on the the tall cane- mostly on the top half - are definitely dying off... overall not too bad so far. Our expectation from the start was to save the root system for new shoots, at the same time give it our best to preserve as much of the plant as we can. At another location we have had raspberry bushes for many years and always transplanted babies when very small, or larger ones when dormant, but had zero experience in transplanting any big plants under these poor condition. Hence the question here.
Cecily Grace zone6
last year
I‘m surprised people are recommending not to trim the newly transplanted bush. I was always taught to trim transplants, as then the plant can focus on growing new roots, without having as much top growth to support, especially since some roots are invariably lost during removal. I’m interested to hear why you recommend not trimming it!
doriswk thanked Cecily Grace zone6
floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
last year
last modified: last year
Leaves photosynthesize. Without photosynthesis a plant struggles.

Once the raspberry has settled in and is growing away happily, it will be fine to remove any weak or scruffy stems. Here’s why:

https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/transplant-pruning.pdf

You will also need to ascertain if this is a type of raspberry where you remove only the fruited canes every year or one where you cut the whole lot down in winter.

eta my link was to the same paper as gardengal’s. Seems to be flaky.
doriswk thanked floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
last year
"I’m interested to hear why you recommend not trimming it!"

Pruning back top growth or the crown/canopy of a woody plant when transplanting has proven to be detrimental to it's reestablishment. As floral noted, leaves fuel photosynthesis; without photosynthesis, the roots will not regenerate successfully. (her link does not work for me)

The Myth of Top-Pruning Transplanted Material
doriswk thanked gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
Cecily Grace zone6
last year
last modified: last year
That is so interesting! I have never heard this before! Sadly, I planted several shrubs this year and did top prune them, already. It seems gardening practise is a lot like parenting. Experts stress one way, and then later the exact opposite is put forth.

Thank you for commenting about this! I’ve been checking back, eager to hear a response.
floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
last year
Sorry my link proved flaky. It was to the same paper as gardengal gave.
doriswk
Original Author
last year
Thank you Grace for asking a question I wanted to ask but did't and thank gardengal for offering , "The Myth of Top Pruning" in reference to crown pruning of trees and shrubs. It was was not only very interesting, but also quite helpful to read as it challenged what I had been taught before (crown pruning ), while also giving the reasons as to why this new practice ( no crown pruning) is now being recommended. It is much easier to accept a new way of doing something if one is given the background reasons.

The above link lead me to the complimentary link about The Myth of fragile roots https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/fragile-roots.pdf

and a link to Horticultural Myths by Linda Chalker -Scott, Washington State University, way too much to read and absorb now but a great read that will probably keep me busy all of next winter

https://puyallup.wsu.edu/lcs/
Sherry8aNorthAL
last year
I would try misting the leaves when you water, but not after noon. You can bottom water twice a day if needed. the shade was the exact right thing to do.
doriswk thanked Sherry8aNorthAL

Raspberry Bush transplant in shock

floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

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Raspberry Bush transplant in shock

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